agamemnon

Hi there, haven't been on here in a while, essentially I found out that two of my bedside tables were against an external facing wall and have mould behind them on the mdc board. I am worried that there is also mould behind my wardrobe now, as there is some dark patches behind the boxes above the ward robe. This is the current master bedroom, with two and a half external facing walls (one wall is half external and half internal). I think there are few issues causing the mould one is the lack of proper ventilation, however, I didn't expect mould behind the two small bedside cabinets. Hence I am wondering if there is something else going on. Bed had to be moved to current location as had a baby recently. I previously had in another room a issue where the dpm not doing its role as render was bridging the floor to the wall bypassing the dpm, I chased all walls but for whatever reason wife stopped me doing these walls, when we were doing the renovations. I have to inspect and remove the skirting boards and do a chase, however, the main question post chase is, how can I improve the ventilation to reduce risk of future moulds. currently the walls can be wiped, its just small very minor patches.

Hello, I have received two quotes for 8 windows and six panes of glasses changed. The first quote is for £5000, and the quote mentions To supply and fit WER ‘A’ rated REHAU 70mm replacement white p.v.c.u. windows to match styles as discussed. the second quote is for £4470 and in the quote the only thing about the specifications mentioned is: All our windows and doors meet current building regulations (Low 'e' glass 28mm double glazed units - with toughened glass where required) Are there any particular questions I should ask?

I currently have a twyford low level cistern, which is lever flush,I want a rimless back to wall toilet pan instead added to the low level twyford cistern, and I have been looking at the armitage shanks contour 21. I wanted to ask, if an alternative option would be to box in just behind the toilet pan and and have the twyford cistern exposed rather than the whole thing boxed in. see original installation diagram and the new diagram.

I am thinking of asking a plumber to do a hybrid of these two - https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/toilets/twyford-cc1132wh-classic-low-level-toilet-pan-p-trap/p/793388 https://www.screwfix.com/p/thomas-dudley-ltd-acclaim-side-inlet-dual-flush-lever-cistern-9ltr/4047f it May look cr*p, but better than having residual cr*p…

do you have a button flush or lever system?

@ToughButterCup 😅😂😂. Not sure he is familiar with modernisation of British plumbing though, case and point! Back to topic better to an armitage shanks sandringham 21 any good? They appear in every industrial site that I know? Or any other preferred brands?

Thanks @ProDave, Are there any non water saving toilets/flushing mechanisms out there? I have set the water in the cistern to the maximum. It can’t have anymore.

Hello, I have been having problems with my toilet in my cloakroom. It never empties waste completely, after having the house renovated, this room was the one left. The issue was also present in the previous toilet as well. My “Throne” pictures with a flushing video. firstly the toilet does flush only from the back in the pan, and poo is still present requiring a second flushing. There is no overflow of the bowl. the inlet and flush mechanism have been set to the maximum amount of water of 6 litres. when I redid the room, it was carpeted before, so I levelled the floor used a bal flexbone and then layed the tiles. There was a height difference between the waste outlet and the waste pipe, so I cut the cast iron waste pipe closest to the wall, used a 40mm offset pan connector with a pan connector extension. I bought this combi basin toiled with pan (from eBay) as I didn’t want a new hole for the basin’s dirty water. Basin works fine, toilet doesn’t. I have bought a Dudley duodlush instead as well but haven’t changed it yet. I asked a plumber for a quote for having the job done, he said that he would want to cut the metal pipe from the outside change the height/angle that will reduce weird angles with the pan connector. The waste pipe is outside and goes 7/8 feet high. He won’t remove the whole, but cut parts for the plastic waste pipes. I am happy with that bit. i want to box in the pipes in the bottom but want the pan to be changed to a better one, was thinking armitage shanks or twyford with a P trap. And have a my current cistern connect to them with a cistern pipe that goes into the pan from the back. Something like this but changing the cistern to mine. he is suggesting to get a complete new combi toilet basin. I don’t want to spend £300 additional on a new toilet on top of the work. suggestions?

I don’t want to use a waterproof solution. As my mortar/bricks will retain moisture and had previous issues with that, which are solved now. I had to do 4:1:1 mix for the repointing of sand, hydrated lime and cement. Wanting the mortar to be breathable. Will go down the route of peppermint oil spray.

I had them erode a whole 1.5sqm patch of a wall. And I don’t want it to happen with the rest of the wall. It if was only one or two holes, I wouldn’t be worried. But after I come back to the wall, there is always two or three more holes per area as I have two different patches.

Hello, I have mortar bees infestation, I repointed few bricks before, but new holes appeared after few days. Not sure what else I can do. Don’t want to repoint the whole wall.

Noted! Thank you.

Okay, so essential foam completely fills each nook and cranny, whereas expanding foam tape doesn't.

@Nickfromwales, thank you, that makes sense. The area is completely clean, it appears that I won't be able to start the job today and need to order the items. As I have to order the item's is there any preference of one over the other?

Thanks for clarifying. So if I understand it correctly the foam itself should not retain moisture, but allow it to be permeable so moisture doesn’t build up inside the area?