Overthefence

Hi I had NICE swing gate motors installed a few years ago and they worked fine for a month or so before one time when given the open command, the lead gate opened a few inches and then stopped. Sending follow up close commands, open commands, using the fob, using the sms commands all failed to get any response. The only way I could find to get them moving again is to turn off and back on at fusebox. And then the close commands would usually work. And then it’d be back to working for another month or so before the same problem happens again. Obviously always happens at the worst time and then have to scramble for the tool to release the gates! I’ve now stopped using them as the inconsistency is a pain but would love to find a solution. In case it helps- the kit was installed brand new and the sensors have been kept clean. Any help would be hugely appreciated Thanks

Thank you. So you don’t think it’d be rising damp then?

Hi all, I’ve been getting damp coming through the dots/dabs behind the plasterboard in a section that was previously an outer wall. As in the photos, we previously had a 1st floor walkway between our house and garage and we had builders create an indoor space at ground level below, involving putting in a small pitched roof section (with skylight) under which is an exterior door. However, since the work was done, the plaster is damp to the touch which seems to be transferring from the old exterior wall behind. You can see the damp and mouldy spots in the pictures. The damp only seems to be on one side (not on the old exterior garage wall) . I asked another builder what they thought and they said I should look into whether it is rising damp or coming from above (eg a leak in the flashing). But I’m not really sure how to do this (eg if I cut the plaster away how will I diagnose the issue) or what the solution would be. Any advice would be gratefully received. I imagine dot and dab was used instead of batons because there is only just enough width for the external door. In case it helps, we had a concrete screed poured on the ground with a waterproof membrane beneath. Thanks

Hi there, I have a Supalite roof that had some cracks in the ridge joins and I had a roofer come out to stop any potential leak. Unfortunately their solution involved adhering some horrible looking tape (flashband?) over the cracks. I’ve been looking for standalone Supalite replacement parts but it doesn’t seem any stockers / companies cater for repairs. Does anyone have any suggestions for how best to remedy this in a way that will no longer be an eyesore- either fixing what is already there or covering it up somehow? Thanks

Thanks for the replies. I was originally thinking timber wouldn’t make a good permanent solution due to the potential for movement/ the need for airflow. But would avoid issues with too much weight on the screed- last thing I want is for it to crack! Anyone got other construction ideas? Or anyone else think the weight from blocks will be fine??

Thanks for the responses. I had assumed timber wouldn’t be a good option because I’m laying stone flags on top and the potential for movement, and temperature changes from the underfloor heating? @JamesP if you rebuild with block how would you go about that? Would you make it solid? I’m not sure if the weight would be problematic on top of my screed

Hi, I’m looking for some recommendations on the best method for building some steps between two levels in a walkway inside my house. The two levels have a 78cm differential and are both hard surfaced (approx 50mm screed with underfloor heating pipes). I’ll align with the regs and have 4/5 steps with appropriate tread and riser dimensions. And I’ll be finishing the floor and steps with c20mm limestone flagstones so that it all ties together. My question is what do I build the step construction out of? Do I build the steps to be solid blocks/bricks? Or is that too much weight on the 50mm screed? Or just wasteful? Or is it better to create a skeleton of blocks and lay concrete boards or similar across to from the base for the treads? Will that be strong enough? And if so, any tips on the spacing between blocks and thickness of boards? Any advice would be gratefully received. Ignore the row of bricks at the top level of my picture- those were just to retain the screed pour and will be removed. You can see the UFH pipes running between the two levels. Thanks