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Thanks for your help. My only thought is I aim to paint the structure every summer with the ronseal waterproof stuff it has on it. Doing this and the bottom board wont get painted again, which maybe is the one that needs it the most?! I guess it shouldn't matter if its pretty water tight. I guess I could maybe raise the membrane and paint underneath if I really want to but sounds like a nightmare! Is it worth painting the bearers I didn't bother as they were supposed to be treated wood and couldn't be bothered masking the concrete to avoid painting it too.

Thanks yes stapler sounds a good idea, that's a lot of staples for a 22M perimeter! Would the following sort of thing do underneath the whole way round, not sure it even need fasted to the walls I presume its only there to ensure against pooling in the plastic membrane and keep the angle there so the water drains off? Wickes Arris Rail - 75 x 75 x 100 x 2400mm | Wickes.co.uk For the bottom of the door I think you can buy proper stormguards or even make one out of the triangle rail covered with the plastic membrane with an overhang so it goes over the edge of the concrete?

No the roof is completely sound in over a year I haven't seen any water ingress. It also has drains that drain into the french drains at the back of the summer house. Its under the front patio doors mainly and front side I can feel the carpet tiles damp Iv put down inside after heavy shower so I assume water is pooling on to of the concrete and under the floor boards getting in under the bearers which wont all be 100% flush to the concrete as it wasnt 100% flat and smooth. The front and back also dont have big overhangs of the roof so much more likely for water to hit the bottom part. The canopies, water deflector wooden strips and sealant in gaps have dealt with slight water ingress around the windows and top of the doors so its trying to prevent water getting in underneath now Im more concerned with.

Ah yes that is what I envisaged could pick as wide a one as they have. How best would I fit it to the timber 6-9 inches up so as to avoid water seeping down between the timber and the plastic? Does it need some sealant and nailed in or tacks? Sorry not a great DIY man but happy to have a go! Some sort of plastic triangle lengths under that to create a 45 degree angle or so away from the base of the summer house? Not sure where to start with that but can have a look round B & Q I guess!

There is a ditch all the way round with sub base and gravel which i brought up to be level with the slab. Its where the slab meets the wooden treated bearers that I feel water can ingress. I didn't paint the bearers same as rest of the summer house as they were treated as opposed to untreated wood but I can do that. Also hard to paint them without the concrete too. I don't think I can trim the concrete as the gravel is filled now and the metal rebar went to the edges of the concrete so might be hard to cut anyway? To me the front and back sides are the main issue as the sides have a considerable overhang and concrete doesn't get that wet. I feel some sort of skirting overhanging from the bottom of the summer house across the width of the concrete would help but unsure how to do this cheaply/well. I dont really care if it looks bad as long as it helps keep the water out in winter months. Water seems to drain away at the back from the drains ok into the gravel no issues, its the water that may come in under the bearers and pool underneath the structure I'm more concerned with. The awnings I fitted to all windows and doors have helped water that was coming through their seals a lot.

Hi I can only find the following is this what you mean? Its a little expensive to do the whole summer house. Type Z Cavistrap DPC fixing strip - DPC Products Direct There are drains at the sides from the roofing and they go down the pip and out into the chuckies which are quite deep and sub soil underneath. There was no drain dug to link in to. The main point where I can feel dampness inside is under the front doors and the front and back sides have no roofing overhang so they need some attention I feel the most. The side concrete doesn't get too wet due to the overhang. It just has treated filler planks along the side as the weight bearing treated strips go horizontal to front and back. I think the one at the front isn't sitting flush to the concrete bases so its easy for water to get in under it at some points so that area definitely needs sealed.

Hi I have a 6x5m summer house. When its wet water seems to seep in under the treated wooden boards the structure sits on (they sit on a large concrete base). This is also worse at the side with the double front doors. At the sides of the summer house there is a larger overhang so less water gets to the base although I might seal these too. I have installed awnings over all doors and windows. The base is 6-12 inches wider at any given point than the summer house so water can pool and likely seep in underneath. I considered using putty or something to seal the concrete base to the wooden slats the summer house sits on but I feel some sort of deflector attached to the bottom of the shed may be better that would take away any rain over the edge of the concrete base might be best. As I said this can be about 6-12 inches wider at any given point it varies as not perfect square. Can anyone suggest a solution that will be cost effective? I include a photo. It mainly shows the side of the summer house which isnt so bad due to overhang of the roof but a bit of the front which has little or no overhang so rain hits it easily.

Hi I have built a summer house with stones around it. My garden slopes from the top where the grass is level with the base of the summer house to the bottom where the lawn is like 6-8 inches or so lower than the base. How would I go about raising the level of the grass and plant beds to the same height. I was hoping to source railways sleepers to lay along the bottom of the garden (there are already some around the summer house) and up the side fence too where the soil beds would meet the fence (as the neighbours garden will be a bit lower than mine). Also lay wooden panels around the beds at the bottom and side. Do I need to buy in some subsoil and proper soil to build up the level on top of the existing grass (which is patchy at best) and then buy rolled turf to lay out on top and more soil to build up the beds? Just looking for the cheapest way possible to do it myself really. Is it likely I can source old railway sleepers from a station maybe? Not sure what sort of volume of subsoil, soil or amount of grass to get hold of. The patch of grass needing replaced will be about 2.5m wide (from summer house stones to bed sideways) and 5.5m long from bottom bed to parallel with front of summer house. There is a photo below. Feel free to ask any questions. Would like to get this done this summer so the grass can take before winter.

Ok that sounds good. I guess measuring the height of the beam from top of the shutter to the beam itself should be obvious I can check this later on, I guess maybe just stick a ruler in front of the beam for the dot to fall on it with zero point at top of the shutter.

Iv a laser spirit level which produces line or dot. So would I put another piece of wood on top of the opposite shutter and mark on it where the dot sits if above? I am not sure how far the laser sits off the flat surface it sits on though if you know what I mean and there is the issue of is the surface actually flat it sits on or it inclining the beam somewhat although I guess I can position the top spirit bubble level to fix that to some degree. I thought there may be some other economical tool I could purchase perhaps maybe using GPS coordinates to measure any fall over say 5 or 6 metres.

Hi Is there a cheap digital tool I can purchase to check whether there is any drop from top to bottom and side to side at any point in a wooden shutter that has been set up for me prior to the concrete being poured? The area is too large for string solutions. I have a laser measure but that is only good for measuring the distance between two points. I am also aware that the concrete will likely self level to some extent if its not too thick but want to double check we arent way off before we pour. Using the spirit level round the edges looks not bad but its drop from one end to another and from side to side I am interested in measuring. Thanks

I tried that already its not possible due to the large size of the area. I am attempting to use Geogebra software to do the same thing but in a more exact method. I would think from what I have seen so far the frame needs changed for sure to give more comfortable margins.

You are misunderstanding I only have the shutter down the concrete isnt poured yet. It can certainly be fixed.

To confirm, I will have to ensure the lengths are actually 5.8 x 4.9m or as close as possible or they will be too small, then remeasure the diagonals is the best approach (and then if still not square then the whole frame will need moved slightly will it)? If I dont get the parallel lengths the same I am guessing it can never be square?

The frame is just standard 44mm wide timber and I don't think each side is completely vertical. Do you mean tilt the top of the frame outwards slightly to extend the width of concrete at the top but not the bottom? I think one side already has this I would prefer they are all vertical I still need to check that also. Thanks for confirming the parallel sides need to be the same length I think that is the place to start first then remeasure the diagonals?