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Ann

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  1. Thanks for all the replies and the suggestions for Click and Schneider. I'll look at those ranges.
  2. I'd appreciate any recommendations for sockets and switches before making a decision for a whole house rewire. My preference would be white metal sockets and switches throughout (possibly brushed chrome in the kitchen), but I'm not sure about Knightsbridge and MK is too expensive. Alternatively, which good quality white moulded sockets and switches have you used and would recommend? Thanks in advance!
  3. Hello, I'm struggling to decide between wood or uPVC woodgrain fascias and soffits. We're in a conservation area, near Cambridge, and neighbouring properties mostly have wood fascias, but some have uPVC. Interested to know what materials others have used and why? I'd welcome any recommendations for good quality uPVC fascias (matt, woodgrain appearance) or where to buy 'fully factory finished' (painted) wood fascias and soffits? Many thanks!
  4. It seems that the way to go is to tile first and then install the kitchen. Thanks for the advice. Interesting to read the posts about the decoupling membrane. I have two quotes for the tiling using flexible adhesive and grout. Only one of the quotes includes an option for Schluter Ditra matting, which adds 50% to the cost!
  5. Hi, I'm not sure what way to go with this ... whether to tile the floor before or after the kitchen units and island are installed. I'm planning to lay the same tile in the hallway, kitchen and family room as it's open plan. On a liquid screed floor with UFH. I'd welcome any advice on the pros and cons of tiling before and after the kitchen units. To confuse me even more, the carpenter has advised that the oak staircase should be fitted last (to avoid damage), after the floor has been tiled.
  6. It's definitely for design only. I'm now getting another quote! Many thanks for the input. I'm just starting out so I'm sure I'll be posting more questions in the future!
  7. The quote is just for the design cost.
  8. The council has only specified that the footway has to be widened by about 500 mm to 1800 mm and a drop kerb is required. I need to submit the plans to be approved with the RM application. It's not a main road; just a quiet road in a village, parts of which don't even have a footway! I challenged the council on this during the outline planning application, but other developments in the village have had the same condition applied to widen the existing footway. The drainage design includes the main sewer connection.
  9. Thanks for the advice. I've been looking at posts about the build cost per square metre. So far I've only had the planning and architect costs. The drainage and footway design quote just seems quite high at £2,500 plus VAT. Or is that reasonable? I'll try to post some plans later.
  10. The building plot is 18 m by 40 m, in a village. The plot was part of the garden of a neighbouring house. The plans are for a detached four-bedroom house.
  11. Hello, this is my first post and my first experience as a self-builder. Currently at the RM planning application stage for a four-bedroom house on a good size plot. The outline planning approval included the conditions to provide details of the land, foul and surface water drainage arrangements, plus a detailed scheme to increase the footway along the site frontage. I've received a quote for the water drainage design and the footway design (both by same company), but the cost seems quite high. I'd welcome any advice about the cost of this work as I don't have anything to compare it to and, at the moment, can't find another company to quote.
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