Jump to content

sruk

Members
  • Posts

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sruk

  1. crazy in what way? remember this is for a kid and maybe the occasional guest.
  2. in this case almost half the entrance will be obstructed by the sink.
  3. for a pocket door of 686mm i need 704mm wall space for the pocket, i am struggling with 610.
  4. not really, it would leave maximum leg room between toilet and bath of 300mm
  5. many thanks for that, i originally tried that but didn't really work for me, what width door are you using? if i want to put a 600mm deep wardrobe behind the door (door width 762mm) then the vanity unit obstructs part of the opening. see sketch and images below. Once again many thanks for your help.
  6. it has, the 3d image was crap
  7. with regards to the slope, there are a selection of bathtubs available "single ended" so only 1 side is sloped, will put the sloped side on the far end.
  8. It will be wall mounted taps on the far wall, wont be any stepping over taps. for ventilation I will have a HRVS. can anyone be more specific why this would fail building control? Many thanks
  9. I am designing my sons bedroom, and want to make an en-suite, he spends hours in the bath reading so I want to put a bath instead of shower however I don't want to make his room too small so am thinking to put the width of the bath between 2 walls, I have searched and searched could not find any reference to anyone who has done this, is it a problem to do it this way? (regarding the tap and waste pipes I will make an access panel in the bedroom to reach it (it's noted in the sketch below) (The entrance is a pocket door) The 3d image below is the best angle I was able to extract (all the walls are transparent so it looks weird). Would very much appreciate if anyone can tell me if this is a go or not. Many thanks
  10. Thanks for that, this article has been mentioned and i was pretty chuffed at getting bang in the middle of the range. regarding rise of 208... my wife and kids are not your average constructions workers 😜
  11. correction to above figures, 243 going and 190.8 rise (R*2+G=624.6), is 190.8 rise considered comfortable? thanks
  12. I measured my current one again, its old carpet and a toddle loose so its not possible to get accurate measurements, however the stairs vary between 260-264mm (inc nosing) going and 182-188mm rise, (bottom and 1st step from qt landing are 193mm) the big difference between this and the one i plan to build is the current one is carpeted therefore i think its a soft landing whereas the new one will be wood, I am not sure if this makes a difference and if i should therefore lower each a few mm? The top stair is 190mm, no 1 has ever tripped (since i replaced the carpet on the landing (increasing the height) ~9 months ago) maybe because there is a visual difference (see image) the other issue i found is when measuring at first I did not really pay attention to the nosing as the carpet on the rise looked like its only a few mm in from the top small enough to be ignored, however now that i measured nosing to nosing i found that my nosing is around 22mm giving me an actual going of 242mm vs what i thought before to be 264mm. according to the calculator if i were to use the nose to nose measurement at 242mm and rise at 189.5 it will result and a 38.1 degree, i cannot use the same for the new steps as total rise will be slightly more, to achieve 38.1 degrees I can use 244 going (no nosing) and 191.1 rise (R*2+G=626.2) th4 going will be very close to the current only the rise will be more, not sure if going with a rise of 191.1mm will be comfortable. Thank you all once again for your amazing help.
  13. the rise i am certain is 184, what playing on my mind is that the going might be 240mm and for some reason i am working with 260mm. thanks
  14. thanks for that, when I said i will be building it myself i was really overstating... I will get an engineer to design the centre spine and a metal works company to manufacture it... my part will be cutting/shaping and polishing 80mm thick wooden blocks before screwing it onto the metal spine. thanks for the ods file too.
  15. many thanks, seems the like my current shallow degree is based on the going part, will have to remeasure my existing staircase and see (the after works the height will increase by approx 27mm so cannot use the exact same measurements for the new one). Many thanks for the link, was a eye opener
  16. many thanks, you might not notice me from high up there 😉 but i now understand, next step is to measure again my existing steps which are extremely comfortable to make sure i did not miscalculate the going, will do so next week and run the calculations again. many thanks for your help.
  17. 260mm is the going, the rise i am considering is around 178mm
  18. many thanks, I get the point will do it 900x900
  19. if 36 degrees is shallow what am i doing wrong here? according to what i found in the forums 264mm going is not much and 178mm rise is not very shallow, i am confused the calculator does give me a .6mm (178.6mm) for each rise but it then lists the height each step should be along the run and in that lists there are no partial mm and if calculated some are 178 and some 179. with regards to the tolerances you are right I might have some play there. the 900mm is the tread, i get the point. here are the 2 options from the calculator, i highlighted the relevant in red Many thanks for your help
  20. I used https://www.blocklayer.com/stairs/steel-spine.aspx to calculate it advised to do some rises at 178mm and some at 179mm, this gives me 34.1 degrees, I am not sure but it feels a little horizontal to me am i right? the other option i get is 1 step less and rises varying between 190 & 191mm resulting in 35.8 degrees, i think the degree here is fine but i think 190mm is a little on the steep side, no? my current stairs are 184mm rise by 260mm going and are pretty comfortable, after works the total height will be 27mm higher then now, I don't mind adding another stair for comfort but going from 184mm to 190mm rise seems i will loose the comfort, please advise if you think I am wrong. I wont make the staircase wider then 900mm as my hallway is 2500mm wide and do not want to take away to much from the width. my current stairs are 840mm and I had no problem taking up furniture.
  21. bottom will be parquet or tiles, top will be parquet
  22. My plan is to make it wood with no covering.
  23. In England the min width is 800mm the landing is good with regs I just want to know what people think of it practically and comfort wise.
  24. I m going to build it myself, to build each step accurate to the mm I will manage but it will be challenging build it with an accuracy of 10th of mm
  25. I know its an old post, this post has helped me alot but need a little further help. My total rise (including top tread) is 2857mm, I am planning to make my staircase staircase 900mm wide, going 264mm, rise 179mm with a half landing 3 or 4 steps from the top (have not yet decided how many steps i want after the half landing due to space constraints) I have 2 questions i am grappling with , a. with a rise of 179mm I am left with 7mm spare so 1 step will have a 172mm rise, question is where is the best place to put this lower step, bottom, half landing or top landing? b. to save space I designed the half landing 840x840mm with the higher stair overlapping is there any issue with this or does it seem good? (see attached image) (The pros and cons for if to put the step on the longer or shorter run is that if I put it on the longer run the staircase will start 1725mm from the front door and I prefer to get a bigger distance, putting it on the shorter run however makes for a smaller landing upstairs and it also lowers the height of the main hallway under the stairs, i still need to decide which is more important to me 🤔) Many thanks for your help
×
×
  • Create New...