RedMango

I'm all sorted for the calcs and BC etc. Regards ICF I'd love it but unfortunately as it's just me doing it solo, I don't think I'd have the speed to mix & hand ball it in quick enough to get an even spread before killing over. I think open with oak beams or aerated block & render (or wrap & clad) is my two options all considering. I kinda like the open oak beams, although doesn't really add storage but it keeps good air flow to the air bricks on the house which is a plus.

I would render as I have access and the rest of the house is render but I like the idea of ICF, didn't consider it as I thought it would be costly but this would be great. I'm not sure about the filling with concrete due to access, what's the length of run they can usually pump concrete? The closest a truck can get would be about 20m. Still leaves me with figuring out the roof to decking combo. I would just do a normal flat roof then deck above but I don't like the idea of water not draining off.

Hi all, Currently I'm planning a build to start in April for a deck 6m x 4m that extends out from our bifold doors but currently there is about 5ft drop from the doors. My plan is to dig out 2 or so feet and create a storage area beneath the decking. I would love a shipping container as it would be perfect size, quick and easy but access is an issue. I'm trying to figure out if building a single skim aerated block basement but struggling to figure out the roof/decking structure. 2nd option would be to just have open access and use oak beams on raised steel supports co created in. Would be easier but the storage underneath would be open to the elements so not ideal. Any options or inputs appreciated.

Hello all, started to remove/open up the chimney breast in this 1930s house for a hob top. Breast is 1545mm wide Lintel is 1200mm wide The ends of the lintel sit on 150mm of brick This is the first time so unsure on a few things; 1. The brick work inside the chimney is only sporadically tied into the front wall with bricks going side ways. Do I need to support the inside section with anything or is it another being tied into the front facing wall? 2. Most annoyingly the brick pictured on the right hand side has come loose and the brick below hasn't broken off cleanly so I'm concerned the overall support for the lintel is no longer enough? How could I rectify this? Any other points you notice please let me know. Many thanks

Thanks, I think EWI is a no go currently. I've decided to go for oversized radiators working off a delta T of 25. so should be easily enough for a ASHP or running a combi if i go that route.

Now i've done some proper heat loss calcs the rooms are between 500 and 900w

As sure as I can be without looking myself. But both reports have come back saying it is and the searches found the council had an application for cavity wall insulation to be fitted on the property. I'll of course double check once I've got the keys but the previous owner from what I gather was a bit of a builder/DIY enthusiast so makes sense he had it added back when there was the big push by the gov to get home cavity's insulated

Update: Hi all thanks for the input. So house is due to complete soon and waiting to hear back from a survey in the next week before exchange. I have found out though that the house is a lot more insulated that previous thought. It has/will have triple glazing, insulated cavity walls, insulated suspended timber floor, insulated roof. I still haven't decided between getting a ASHP or Combi but I'm doing lost of heat loss calcs and getting averages so ill come back with more precise numbers but a ball park is between 900 - 1400w per room. As my 1st job on the list when moving in is to take up the floor for rewire, insulate and plump. Do I install UFH or Radiator pipe work?

Thanks. Any particular reason for the air con? We have windows open regularly? I'm definitely going to size the rads and pipe work ready for a ashp but I'm just not ready to take that leap. I'll just run a combi at a low temp and when it breaks replace it with one. I'm not sure I'm doing the heat loss calcs right. Used 5 or so online and all give me between 5.5k BTU to 8k BTU (just working off the living room ATM till I can grasp the calculations etc. If I'm to work of a delta of 30 instead of 50 then it's about double so I'd need a output of around 15k BTUs ?? 😂 Or am I missing something

Yes I definitely will, I've started now from the info I have then finish it off when I can get into the property to take proper measurements etc

This is exactly what I'm planning apart from the floors will be half PIR and half Wool and I don't have the funds for EWI yet but its the next stage. I'm not au fait with the abbreviations sorry, what are A2A & ESHP?

Sorry no chance, In all my reading and reviews i've not seen one non biased good thing to say about ASHP in the enviroment/situation im in. Maybe in 10 years time ill reconsider

To be honest that sounds exactly like i was planning on doing. Minus the resizing of the window openeings as i didnt know about that but most have rotted away so they've probably resized themselves. We will be throwing at least 50k into the house maybe more down the line as we plan on keeping it for 30+ years after which ill kids will have it. But i do get your point that its partly wasted. I think after doing more reading im going to stick with radiators i think most are right in saying i will never get the house efficent enough to benifit from UFH.

Im hoping a £2k boiler can last me till 2032 then i'll consider it.🤣

I wont be using ah eat pump though, just a standard boiler