jimal1969

We’re putting the joists for the roof in next week. Roof lantern at the back is going to be substantial smaller so not a problem. The 3x1.5 lantern at the front shows 47x200 joists tripled up but the key says 4 of. My chippy is saying 4 is a problem as you can’t get hangers that big. I’m going to try and contact structural engineer next week but in the mean time can anyone offer any advice?

Can’t deny, if the timber is hidden by plasterboard and plaster it’s not going to do me any harm and there is that extra layer of protection for the wood, then I’ll take it

In the roof void!!??

Thanks for the response and yes please an explanation is required:) but surely if treated and untreated is the same price, treated would be a better bet??

Hi all, I’m about to buy the carcassing timber for the joists for a warm flat roof, obviously all internal timbers. I have noticed that the timber merchant stocks both treated timber carcassing and untreated timber carcassing all at the same price and all C24 grade. Am I right in thinking both will be ok but may as well get the treated stuff as the price is the same?

🙏🏽

Hi guys Is a vapour control barrier the same as a damp proof membrane? I’m asking as I have a load left over from my slab and wonder if I can lay it on top of the insulation to be used as the VCL? Would building control be happy?

So basically do a dot and dab with insulated plasterboard and rather than grind the Dpm in, extend it and tape it?

Hi Gus. We had to grind a vertical Dpc into the existing wall because bc insisted it. It’s only 15-20mm in so not going to compromise the brickwork in any way and in my mind it does seem like good practice. You are right in it being a sheltered spot however. We will be going with 100mm celotex with screed on the top but I don’t understand what you mean but perimeter vertical insulation? The walls will be bonded and plastered. At the moment I think my best option is to grind a 25mm groove into the blockwork a fraction above the Dpc and gripfill the Dpm in and then cement it in completely. It would give me peace of mind. I’m open to other suggestions however 😃

Cool, no worries, not an urgent issue, will get it sorted one way or another 👍🏽

Yeah, I don’t think he’s talking about feet lower, perhaps one course of bricks lower, but the truth is get it right, obviously measuring, perhaps laser level and drill some exploration holes to find my exist floor joists?

Not really, I’ve obviously got structural calcs and the job is very straight forward (2 walls out and a flat roof). I understand and know where everything will go and I’m on site all the time. Apart from the stress, which I’d get anyhow there’s not a massive need for the plans

I’m due in the next couple weeks to put a huge steel across the middle of my extension which will be supporting an extended bedroom. Last night I was almost having panic attacks that the steel will go in and the floor heights won’t match! Can anyone give me some tips on how to make sure my heights are all correct other than using a tape measure. I don’t have detailed plans

Yes we’ve got wall started ties in, you can’t see them because they don’t go on a rail they drill in every few course see… https://www.selcobw.com/staifix-stainless-steel-wall-starter-tie-pack-10 there is also a vertical Dpm in the adjoining. That’s there because BC told us to put it there. Look if I’m honest it’s partly my fault, I knew it needed to tuck in but was distracted and before I knew it the time went by. I’m paying the bricklayer on a day rate and don’t want to demolish and start again. But do you have any better ideas other than grinding it in? Appreciate the reply

Along one of my walls the Dpm hasn’t been over lapped into the inner skin, it’s also in places not long enough to get in there anyway. is the best option to grind out a channel in the Dpc course and mortar it in and also tape more to it where it’s short ?