windsor-tg

thanks @Bramco. My router is located in the landing on the 1st floor and the Tado wireless thermostat is planned to be located in the hallway on the ground floor. Is there a high possibility the Tado thermostat will lose connectivity with the hub?

@marshian, thanks. The honeywell kit replaced a previous controller if I recall. One thing I'm not sure on is what to do with the wiring going to the Honeywell relay/receiver HC60NG/R6660D as I'm assuming this receiver will become redundant once the Tado has been installed?

@marshian - the driver to change is to have the ability to control the heating & scheduling remotely. The boiler was installed in 2019. I'm not planning on changing this until such time the boiler packs up

In my 3-bedroom semi-detached house, I currently have a conventional central heating system comprising of: a MAIN HE Condensing boiler (located in lounge) a Honeywell programmer ST9400C (located in lounge beside boiler) a Honeywell HCW80 (Y6630D1007) Battery Powered Wireless Room Thermostat (located in hallway) a Honeywell relay/receiver HC60NG/R6660D (located in a bedroom cupboard beside the hot water tank, zone valves, and pump) a wiring box (located in the same bedroom cupboard where the hot water tank is) I believe I have a S-Plan setup with 2 x 2-port motorised valves controlled by the room thermostat and hot water cylinder thermostat (photo attached) I am looking to replace this with the Tado Wireless Smart Thermostat Starter Kit V3+ with Hot Water Control, or an alternative smart system so that I can control the central heating and hot water remotely. Assuming the Tado Wireless Thermostat Starter Kit V3+ is compatible, is it fairly straight forward to remove the Honeywell set-up and replace it with the Tado system? I would like to do it myself but there are a fair amount of wires.

This is on the other side of the kitchen wall

Unfortunately there is not enough gap between the wall and the kitchen units to allow for insulated plasterboard

The ground floor consists of a through lounge and then the kitchen. Since the house is near a roundabout, there are no trickle vents on the windows at the front of lounge and at the back of the lounge. There is no door between the rear lounge and the kitchen. The kitchen contains a window which does have a trickle vent. The damp/flaking paint is on the external wall of the kitchen. The kitchen units touch this external wall. Not sure if thernally insulating the inside of the wall will help. I have attached a photo of this wall.

My son has a problem with his kitchen wall where paint on part of the wall (external) is flaking. I have had a damp surveyor visit his home and he said that due to the lack of airflow, there is high humidity within the kitchen which is likely to be contributing to the problem. The surveyor recommends a humidistat extractor fan is installed in the kitchen. Can anyone recommend a particular extractor fan that is effective & silent, and will reduce the humidity within the kitchen? We did not particularly want to fit airbricks at the top & bottom of the kitchen wall (to help with airflow) because of traffic noise coming inside the house

Thanks @Iceverge, I’ll give the silicone sealant a try once the weather gets drier and I’ve cleaning the wall and porcelain patio. The masonry protection cream is incredibly expensive! Would something like this (Thompson’s One Coat Water Seal) not do the trick? https://amzn.eu/d/gjoq1MX

thanks @Iceverge. I'll give what you suggest a try. I like the idea about applying a thin dab of clear silicone along the edges of the tiled steps but I'm not sure how I could achieve a neat finish with the clear silicone. Where you say "get a brush on silicone based sealant" - would that be to apply on the wall once it has been cleaned? Would you be able to recommend of a suitable sealant?

Hoping someone can advise..... I had a garden wall built around 18 months ago and the front of the wall (from the top to the ground) was k-rendered. With the wall touching the ground, I find that when it rains, dirt from the ground splashes up on the wall. I have attached a photo of my wall showing the dirt. Can anyone advise how best I can clean this, and is there anything I can put on the wall to minimise the amount of dirt sticking to the wall?

@Lofty718 - am I right to assume that the attched photo is not an electronic mixing valve that you're referring to?

@Lofty718, yes, my boiler is the new ecotec with the digital controller on the front. I’ve read mixed opinions about the Vaillant controls, some have said it’s the best thing since sliced bread but others have said that it will take many years to recoup the investment of these controls and their house does not feel as warm as before. I’m more than happy to find a solution that will reduce by daily gas consumption and happy to pursue going down the path of the Vaillant controls if it will work with my setup. Why do you say the sensohome will not work? When I got in touch with Vaillant technical team, they said I needed the vr71 to work with sensohome but you mention that I could use the vr70. Since my existing Heatmiser controls are all hard wired, I would like to continue using the hard wired concept with the Vaillant controls. For the UFH, why would I need an electronic mixing valve? I would find it a challenge to run any cables from my UFH manifold to the wiring centre vr70/vr71. I do have a wire though running from the UFH manifold to my existing wiring centre. I don’t know off hand the dimensions of my house but it’s an extended 4-bed detached house. Upstairs, I have 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms/en-suites and landing. On the ground floor, I have the kitchen, hallway, and 3 reception rooms. All the upstairs and these rooms are heated through the use of radiators. About 18 months ago, I had an orangery built which has UFH. I will view the Syzmon video soon as well as looking in reducing the boiler target temp which is currently set at 65C.

so I changed d.00 to 28kw. The speed of the boiler immediately increased and the modulation level went up to 4. I am now finding that the boiler flow temp is reaching the boiler target temp of 65C and the rads are heating up nicely. However, reading my IHD linked to my smart meter, I have found that I am using approx £15 per day of gas in the last few days of this cold weather spell. Would reducing the boiler target temp make a big difference to gas consumption? Also, I am not sure whether increasing D.00 to 30kw (the boiler's maximum capacity) is a good or bad thing to do? @Lofty718 - I have been thinking about the Vaillant controls but I first wanted to change the boiler to make sure it was running without any problems. The Vaillant controls are pretty expensive especially the ones I was initially looking at, i.e. sensocomfort vrc720 (wired version), sensohome vr92 (for controlling the UFH), vr 940f internet gateway. The wiring centre VR71 is really expensive so I then started to think about the sensoHOME setup. Still not sure and how bigger difference this will really make.

thanks @MikeGrahamT21. As far as I'm aware, the Heatmiser is connected through standard on/off. TBH, I'm not sure if there is such a setting on the Vaillant ecotec plus 630 boiler 😟