Gerhardt

That is the plan!

Valid argument. Noted!

I will rather pay £130 a tub of pointing than do bitumen. The hardest bit of the path I think was setting it out as these curves were seriously doing my head in.. haha

I have a 22sqm 100 x 100 Indian sandstone cobble garden path that I am busy with. I started looking at pointing solutions for it and do not like the brush in stuff that you can store in water as it is not very pressure washer friendly on my porcelain patios. I have looked at just about every single product on the market, preference would be to use ProJoint TITAN Ultra High Strength Epoxy Paving Grout but it is £65 a tub and I would need circa 35 tubs. Does anyone have any advice on what I can use that is affordable'ish, simple'ish and long lasting? Also would you recommend sealing the cobble setts? I have attached some photos of the path and the actual cobble setts. The entire path will be done in 100 x 100 setts.

Thanks for your reply, sorry I should have been clearer in my question, as my question only relates to the flue flash which I have seen some people let the flash sit on top of the tiles rather than on the roofing batons, I was just wondering which way professionals would install this. Regarding the flue, the flue with the cowl is already in place and it is once of those that clip together.

I am in the process of building an outdoor kitchen, we have an oak structure with a plain clay tile roof. I bought twin lined flues for the pizza oven and the open fireplace, we got sent flashing with a silicone middle and some lead'ish surround. Photo attached. What is the best way to install this, lift the tiles and put this on the battens on slide it in under the tiles at the top and let the rest of it sit on the clay tiles, obviously siliconed down. I have fitted the open fireplace flue this weekend, but I am not convinced it will not leak. Photo attached.

See post above.

We ended up going with Urban Front, it is an amazing door but cost an arm and a leg.

I am in the process of building an open fireplace / BBQ in the outdoor kitchen area. The intention is to put in a chimney gather like the one in the attached photo. I have a couple of questions which I hope someone can help with. Should the smoke gather sit on the lintel or should I put it up higher in the chimney breast? Regarding the lintel, should I use a 200 mm wide or 100 mm wide lintel at the top of of the opening, this is not a structural engineering question but what I want to know is if I use a 200 mm lintel with the smoke gather in the attached picture connected to a flue, will smoke spill over or will the the smoke to be sucked up the gather into the flue. My preference is to do a 200mm lintel but I can do a 100 as well if needed.

Thanks for the reply, as I needed nailer on the day to make the most of the hour of no rain, I bought a paslode which is shooting the nails in with no problem.

We are busy with an oak framed outdoor kitchen, we have green oak rafters and I am trying to nail 20mm air dried oak boarding onto the rafters. I bought 63mm galvanised wire collared nails from screwfix, but only 1 in 10 of the nails I shoot actually goes through all the way, the rest of them bends or the head breaks off. When I change the nails to no paper collated standard nails it nails it perfect. So my guess is it is the nails? Has anyone had this problem? What other brand of nails have you used in a similar situation. Will stainless steel nails at double the cost work better? The attached photo shows the golden nails driving in perfectly but the galvanised nails almost all bent or broken.

Thanks for all the comments, I ended up painting the ceiling with Tikkurila Anti Reflex 2 and it looks so much better!

It is a Fornosa Bath By CLEARWATER and retails for 2k on their website

Does anyone have any views on fixing this crack in the bath. I can buy this cracked bath that retails for £2k for £100. Could save a fortune but don’t want to run into any issues later that end up costing more!

I did the mist coat and my wife did the final coat, so yes there is probably an element of poor painting but she also did a room in the front of the house(north facing) where there is less light and you dont notice the unevenness at all.

You are right, I dont like it.

We have recently painted a newly plastered ceiling in a room that is filled with sunlight throughout the day but it looks appalling when the light shines on it, looks like the walls of a Spanish villa with unevenness of the paint showing from all angles, apparently the best paint to use for a room with so much light is Johnstones perfect matt. My question is can I paint over the existing paint without sanding the ceiling first and achieve a smooth finish?

Thank you so much, I have ordered this one. I actually did phone victoriaplumb and the person who answered told me they don't have any bath wastes with a tail of 70mm. I guess they probably misunderstood me and thought it had to be 70mm precise.

I am really hoping someone can direct me in the right direction, we have recently fitted an Olympia Ashton and Bentley bath, the pop up waste that came with it, stood about 25mm proud when shut, it was basically impossible to lie down in the bath(and no i can not be adjusted). The bathroom supplier sent a flip top waste as replacement but when I tried to fit it, the tail didn't even come through the bath, so impossible to fit the trap onto the waste. I have tried searching the internet for hours now, but for the life of me I cant find an unslotted waste with a tail of at least 70mm. At the moment we don't really even care what color it is anymore we just need something that doesn't stand proud that we can actually fit so we can use the bath. All internet searches come up as bath wastes with 50mm tail or Basin wastes with longer tails. I am searching for an unslotted bath waste with no overflow and a tail of minimum 70mm long. Anyone any ideas where I can source one?

I am in the process of getting trims sorted for the carpet fitters, we have 20mm thick engineered wood floor joining with a room we will carpet. What is the best trim to use? I would think a Z bar but what depth should it be if a Z bar is the correct trim.

Thanks for all the responses, tbh I didn’t even know about the level threshold and ramp situation, like some has suggested on here, it is easy to overcome so will deal with that later, question was more related to where under porch patio meets house, by the sound of it we will build as set out above and if BC gets funny will cut in a channel with a drain where patio meets house under the porch.

Thanks. We got it made by Urban front.

Getting the front door patio done soon, in a perfect wold I have the patio just under the top of the door frame. The entire patio will be under the porch and will have a fall, we can also put in a dpc between patio and house. Had a few guys mention the patio needs to be 150mm below DPC.Anyone foresee any problems with BC if we were to build patio as described above?

We are doing up a chalet bungalow and have stripped the roof completely and rebuild it to create more space on the first floor. We are now starting the ridge tiles and have opted for a cemented ridge, but someone on site mentioned that all new roofs must be a dry ridge. Is this true?

Updating this thread for anyone with a similar situation.