Marko

I've gone through the BPCV instructions, and I can't find anything that specifically says whether the 75mm ducting needs insulation in a cold loft. I'm assuming it doesn't as long as you can place the ducts under the loft insulation. Can anyone confirm this? TIA

I've got the unit on the wall and had the roofers out to install the vent tiles. BPC just sent me their instructions and after reading through it I noticed they recommend that: 'roof vents must be installed at a higher level than the MVHR unit or condensation will form in the pipework' My intake vent is a lot lower than the unit. Is this critical before I get the roofers back out 🫣

I've just had the roof tile vents installed and going to start connecting the unit up. What has everyone used to make the connection from the spigot/adaptor on the vent tile to the PVC ducting from the unit? Presumably some sort of flexible connection to allow for the pitch of the roof?

Great, I’ve had a ‘preliminary’ design layout sent over that does give flow rates and basic intake and extract locations. They then say that they can provide full ventilation guide with more detailed information such as duct runs etc. No mention if it is deductible from total cost though. Just wondering if it’s worth paying the extra in the grand scheme of things.

Has anyone who done a DIY install had BPC Ventilation design their system, and would you recommend paying the extra £100 for it?

Thanks. I should have really mentioned that I’m running an ASHP so temps are pretty low - mid 30’s.

I have a very, very small bathroom with an existing rad in it. I'm going to be ripping the bathroom out soon and wondering if it's possible to connect the UFH flow and return to the existing pipes; or, is that too simple and I'd need a proper manifold setup?

I like the idea! So something like the below. Slabs against the OSB with DPC in between. Do you think the slabs would need fixing with some type of adhesive on the sheathing?

Can you elaborate, I'm slow today. What do you mean, cut some extra slabs 150 mm and turn them on their edge?

So I'm in the planning stages. My intentions were to pour a slab and timber frame the walls. I'm especially limited in terms of width so not much wiggle room. The garden is on two levels and there will be steps leading up to the house. These will go right alongside the outbuilding wall with a gap between where I'll be putting in some Aco drains. As you can see, I've run into a design issue. Once the steps go in, there be no access to the side of the building for maintenance on the cladding etc. Does anyone have any suggestions to get around this? I was thinking of a type of brick plinth around the timber frame, up to the height of the top paving slab, but not sure.

How on earth do I cut and scribe a 77mm thick worktop?

Did you get retrospective permission?

That's why I was bemused by the letter. I'm not going to second guess them though. Like Joe said, I'm keeping the letter just incase anything is brought up in the future. Best thing about it is I get my application fee back 😁 Go toward some more PIR boards. Not that it'll stretch that far with the prices these days!

Thanks all. Yes, I'll do that just in case. But there you go.

So, just an update to this. I went ahead and applied for PP. Got an email this moring from the Council saying that they consider the height increase permitted development in accordance with Schedule 2 of the Town and Country Planning Order 2015. Therefore, no planning decison is needed. I'm baffled by this because the overall increse in height takes it above 2.5m, and the building is within 2m of all boundaries.

From my understanding, in my case, the building is currently permitted development, because it is no more than 2.5m high, overall. But, as I intend to increase the overall height, I’m not sure if it will be alteration to an already existing structure, or a new planning application altogether.

Hi, I’ve currently a timber garden room. Been there a year or so. As it stands, it has a flat rubber roof with an overall height of 2.5m. The building is also within 2m of the garden boundary. I would like to change the roof to a tiled apex, which will obviously increase the o/a height, ending up at something around the 2.8m mark. Anyone have any idea how planning permission would work for this, and the approach to take for the best possible outcome? I’m just at the beginnings of thinking about it, so I haven’t done to much digging around on the interweb yet. Thanks!

Cheers Simon, I’ll have a look at that.

100mm I’m planning on.

No reason other than cost of ungraded vs. graded. But, I thought I’d ask people in the know beforehand. If it’s going to make life difficult, like you say, then I’ll stick with the graded stuff. Thanks.

I'm on designing of one of these fancy garden buildings, but it's to house my future racing pigeon team! However, it will be a full on build, insulated, electrics, MEV system the full works to keep them in good condition and hopefully win some races. It will fall within permitted dev. so under 2.5m. Apart from the fact that the timber will be unregularised, what are some of the other cons of using ungraded timber? Will it affect structural integrity, interfere with the insulation. I'm trying to think of any major impediments. Just trying to strip some of the cost out of the build. Working drawing is attached if anyone's interested in the layout. Framing Assembly1.pdf

Been doing a bit more digging on this, and in case any one else in the future wonders why the system/controller in these older models does not show energy produced; in the manual you will notice that it indicates it is possible to record energy produced, however it also notes that if glycol is present then this function is disabled. Disappointing, but there you go.

It sounds like you have a newer model than mine. The one I have looks like the controller hasn't been updated since circa 2013 and only displays energy used. So the Daikin app doesn't even give you any usable data? Have you registered for the Daikin Stand by Me? This apparently provides cloud monitoring, whatever that means. I haven't registered my system yet as I'm still chasing the installer for my commissioning code etc.

Can you? The controller does show a flowrate. What's the formula? Worthwhile having a go.

Thanks Marvin. Yes, been looking and apparently there is an interface/LAN adaptor you can buy separately (roughly £200) to compliment the system. I'll have a bit more dig into the matter.