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We have an a Elisse pocket door opening installed for our utility room. This was chosen in order to create an opening in the wall without any architrave but with a pocket door - a clean contemporary look. The pocket door metal framework from Eclisse has a plastering bead built in at the corner of the opening to support this look with plastered corners to the opening. It also has suitable roughened areas in the reveal inside the opening to allow plastering right around the corners and up to the slot where the pocket door runs. . However I now discover that this is positioned by Eclisse to support jointing and taping the plasterboard to a finish ! However we want and need to skim plaster onto our plasterboard and hence up to the corner of the pocket door opening. Hence it seems the built in metal plaster bead is not in the correct position to support this as it is level with the plasterboard rather than slighty proud of it by 3mm to support the skim coat. So, how do I solve this ? How much plaster can cover a corner bead when skimming a wall - can the plaster bead be 3mm deep beneath the plaster at the corner ? Or will it just chip and flake off ? Could some special reinforced plaster be used in the corner area and blended into the rest of the wall skim ? Could some small 2-3mm corner bead be fixed/glued onto the eclisse metal frame at the corner ? Anybody with experience of installing pocket doors without architrave ? -
Another approach might be to lower the ground level but only in the area of the air vents, such as along a strip adjacent to the building, such as a strip of gravel or planting at a level below the paved area/ramp which then keeps the air bricks above ground. There is some discussion of this approach, albeit in the context of dealing with the requirement for 150mm between ground level and DPC level and drainage, on paving expert here... https://www.pavingexpert.com/dpc01 In the 1930's when our place was built they didn't have telescopic air bricks and our DPC and airbricks are pretty low in the original house, so may have to take this approach for part of our patio.
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Your problem is going to be finding an adhesive that is both strong enough and 'invisible' enough. Epoxy or a clear, non foaming, PU is probably your best bet. To hold it in place, while the adhesive sets, can you make a small wedge that can be hammered into the stringer. -
So shrinking treads is quite possible the cause. As above I would see if it will press back or use a sacrificial piece of spare wood held over the nosing and give it a good thump with a hammer and hopefully it will push it back. I would test fist to see if it will move and if yes then run some glue in and tap/clamp back into position. Another way might be to screw and plug from the front of the nosing to pull it together as clamping maybe tricky. If it wont move wait until everything is fully dry and fill the crack either with epoxy if you think it needs reinforcing or just a coloured filler if not needing to be structural.
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