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Architrave Offset

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Are there any rules for offsetting architrave from the door frame?

 

I've to trim the bathroom main and cupboard door frames. These are 27mm:

 

20190427_152250

 

Using this 45mm wide bullnose:

 

20190427_152349

 

Is there a "norm" for the distance between edge of frame and the front of the bullnose?

 

20190427_152325

 

Where the frames meet I'll put quadrant:

 

20190427_152402

 

20190427_152410

 

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I set mine at 5mm from the edge of the lining, which someone said (after I'd finished...) was about the standard normally used.  I did it simply because it looked about right, to my eye.

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I set mine about 3mm and this caused a problem with the hinges rubbing on it and causing a squeak yes 5mm sounds better 🤭

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yeh 5-6mm is about right it is usually dictated by the hinge side, you dont want the hinges rubbing on it 

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Hinge clearance! Never gave it a thought! However...

 

In this instance the hinge side is pretty much an internal corner where both frames meet. Using the quadrant I have which is about the same thickness as the bullnose, will put quadrant about 12-15mm from the edge on the hinge side. Question is whether to bring it in on the top and lock sides.

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I would get a slightly larger quadrant than that one, so the amount of door frame left visible is a little less, then set the rest of the architrave to the same gap.

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7 minutes ago, ProDave said:

I would get a slightly larger quadrant than that one, so the amount of door frame left visible is a little less, then set the rest of the architrave to the same gap.

 

But a larger quadrant will sit off the edge of the door frame further than the architrave.

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if you use the quadrant you have, keep the facings to the same margin. as long as everything is equal and balanced it's fine. there's an old adage, 'if it looks right, it is right'

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19 minutes ago, Simplysimon said:

stick like sh1t, no nail holes

 

Yes and no.  I found that it takes too long to grab, so used a combination of mitre bond and the setting pen stuff on the architrave to lining joint, and on the architrave mitres, with solvent grab adhesive around the edges that overlapped the plastered walls.  This worked really well with our solid oak architrave and linings, with no nail holes and neat mitres at the head.

 

The technique I used was to apply mitre bond around the edge of the lining, and on the mitres, then quickly run a bead of grab adhesive around the plastered area, followed by  quick wipe around the architrave with the setting pen, before putting the architrave in place.  The big advantage of the mitre bond was the fast curing time, as holding the architrave in place for a few seconds was enough to secure it, handy when working n your own.

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Thinking to go with 5mm lock & top sides and go with what is in the corner.

 

It'll roughly be 17mm from lhs frame to the edge of the quadrant, 21mm across the quadrant then 19mm to the edge of the rhs frame. There's some near symmetry at least, visually imo.

 

2019-04-28_12-10-06

 

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Have just watched a good vid by skill builder, and he mentioned that a lot of the ball race type hinges require at least 9mm clearance 

so you need to have your hinge choice decided before fitting architrave. 

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7 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Have just watched a good vid by skill builder, and he mentioned that a lot of the ball race type hinges require at least 9mm clearance 

so you need to have your hinge choice decided before fitting architrave. 

 

Left it as per picture above, 1st top coat going on tonight! 😂

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I prefer 6mm as it looks better and used to be the traditional reveal. However modern practice seems to have them set at 10mm, which looks horrible to me, plus if the timber frame is not very thick then it makes it harder to nail the architraves on.   😐

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