Jump to content

Looking for inspiration - 140m2 driveway


success1980

Recommended Posts

I have a front garden of around 140m2 and would like to build a driveway. I am told it would not be an issue to get approval for a dropped kerb.

 

My issue is that I very much like tarmac; but at 140m2 i think it may look like an office carpark. I am not 100% keen on block paving as I hate the fact that there is a chance of weeds growing through in the future. Also I am not sure if the blocks move over time when the car is always parked on the same spot, or the wheels are always turned on the same spot.

 

Does anyone please have an inspirational idea what I could do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Worth remembering that any driveway will have to be SuDs compliant, so will need some form of drainage to prevent run off.  It's slightly easier to do this with permeable surfaces than with impermeable ones, as a rule, as you don't need to build in linear or side drains.  It might be worth looking at things like permeable resin bonded gravel, or if the drive is flat, gravel contained within a grid mat. 

 

FWIW, we have permeable pavers and they don't move at all.  I park in the same spot all the time and over 4 years there's no indication that any car has ever parked there.  Weeds are a pain, but not too hard to control, although I've found that I have had to resort to weedkiller a few times.  Now it seems that moss is starting to dominate, and that doesn't look bad, and it seems to keep the weeds at bay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, success1980 said:

I have a front garden of around 140m2 and would like to build a driveway. I am told it would not be an issue to get approval for a dropped kerb.

 

My issue is that I very much like tarmac; but at 140m2 i think it may look like an office carpark. I am not 100% keen on block paving as I hate the fact that there is a chance of weeds growing through in the future. Also I am not sure if the blocks move over time when the car is always parked on the same spot, or the wheels are always turned on the same spot.

 

Does anyone please have an inspirational idea what I could do?

Ha ha

 

We are sat here with the same dilemma 

150 mtrs Tarmac would look like a runway 

Stones could get messy 

We are leaning towards a block paver 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

Worth remembering that any driveway will have to be SuDs compliant, so will need some form of drainage to prevent run off.  It's slightly easier to do this with permeable surfaces than with impermeable ones, as a rule, as you don't need to build in linear or side drains.  It might be worth looking at things like permeable resin bonded gravel, or if the drive is flat, gravel contained within a grid mat. 

 

FWIW, we have permeable pavers and they don't move at all.  I park in the same spot all the time and over 4 years there's no indication that any car has ever parked there.  Weeds are a pain, but not too hard to control, although I've found that I have had to resort to weedkiller a few times.  Now it seems that moss is starting to dominate, and that doesn't look bad, and it seems to keep the weeds at bay.

Sorry to hijack Jeremy 

Quite interesting to read regarding 

permiable Our neighbour (vendor)

Has always insisted that our drive match there’s Gravel

On closer inspection of the pp it does list block paving amongst the drive finishes 

Have any photos of yours 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@success1980 we have resin bound.  Its permeable. We have about 150sq m I think.  Much less maintenance than block paving....swore I would not have blocks again having had them for last 30 years....the weeding the resanding after cleaning etc etc.  Resin is pretty much maintenance free but its not cheap and you need to make sure you get a good installer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, nod said:

Sorry to hijack Jeremy 

Quite interesting to read regarding 

permiable Our neighbour (vendor)

Has always insisted that our drive match there’s Gravel

On closer inspection of the pp it does list block paving amongst the drive finishes 

Have any photos of yours 

 

 

Here's a photo that shows our drive taken last summer (around 4 years after the pavers went down).  It's quite a steep slope, hence the pavers, and we were advised that the slope was a bit too great for resin bound gravel.  The pavers are Bradstone Infilta, Autumn, came from Simply Paving (who gave a better price delivered than any of our local BMs).

 

58449424_HouseJuly2018.thumb.JPG.c39796e76e610e7bfc0c02bfa2bad4fa.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've just moved/replaced our driveway and ended up with ~150m2 of drive (Tegula style block from Stonemarket) and ~30m2 of porcelain tiles for the path to our house. As @JSHarris said, you have to consider drainage and officially need planning/approval if you're putting down a non-permeable surface and wanting to direct water to drains. However, if you're putting down a non-permeable surface and directing the water to a grass verge (eg, your lawn) you don't need planning

 

See:

 

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/45/paving_your_front_garden

 

To mitigate against the council car park feel, we put borders (we considered raised borders but decided not to in the end) around the parking space in which we'll do some planting (hopefully starting this weekend).

 

We did look at resin bound, which I love the look of, but this pushed our budget a bit too far and we're on a bit of a slope (not quite as much as @JSHarris picture above) and I hadn't seen enough evidence that there would not be an issue in future.

 

Edited by AliMcLeod
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could do a two-area one using trad gravel with tarmac.

 

This is mine done about 5 years ago, where I replaced the existing traditional suburban front garden lawn and beds with 2-3 car parking, Aimed for 3, in practice a comfortable 2. The existing concrete drive stayed in situ.

 

It was done with proper ground fabric etc, and it is about 50-50sqm of gravel. The edgings are cement, and I think the whole thing was about 3k all in in 2013.

 

As you can see, it is still Pretty much weed free, and te maintenance is 1 raking a year, or perhaps 2.

 

DF09839C-B2A1-45CE-8CE0-7EB8657B485E.thumb.jpeg.ea419309006b0a1589c2c76287dfdc31.jpeg

 

804CB90F-9E78-4CDD-A29B-2296F1E9D059.thumb.jpeg.107cf774d9c4526e87ffe02b9a9f4afd.jpeg

 

Oh .. car is for sale if anyone wants a 2009 1.4 Corsa auto with 50k.

 

Ferdinand

 

 

 

 

Edited by Ferdinand
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, JSHarris said:

 

 

Here's a photo that shows our drive taken last summer (around 4 years after the pavers went down).  It's quite a steep slope, hence the pavers, and we were advised that the slope was a bit too great for resin bound gravel.  The pavers are Bradstone Infilta, Autumn, came from Simply Paving (who gave a better price delivered than any of our local BMs).

 

58449424_HouseJuly2018.thumb.JPG.c39796e76e610e7bfc0c02bfa2bad4fa.JPG

Looks great Jeremy 

we havethesane slope 

But towards the house 

Thank you 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had a loose chippings driveway in the past. The main positive aspect I had was that you could always hear when anyone drove onto it. The biggest downside I found (other than having to top it up every few years) was that it was a pain if you had a heavy snowfall and had to clear it - you'd end up with piles of stones where you cleared the snow to and then had to move back later to the now almost-bald areas.

 

Edited by AliMcLeod
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, lizzie said:

Ive got quite a big slope down to the house (pics dont show it), I had four separate companies quote for the resin and not one of them mentioned the slope as a problem. Your must be very steep if they didnt want to do it @JSHarris but installers know best.

 

 

The gradient is about 1:9 at the steep part, so over the often quoted maximum allowable for resin bonded gravel of 1:12.  The drive is steep enough that lightly loaded rear wheel drive vans often can't get up the steep part in the dry, meaning I end up having to go and clean off the tyre skid marks where they have spun the wheels whilst trying.  I'd guess this might be quite damaging to a resin bonded gravel surface.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@joe90 I see your location....Friends have moved to near Bude this week.  Next to them is a building plot with TF house curving roof etc under construction.  Don't know if its self build or spec when we go to visit at Easter will have a nosey at it.  They say lovely part of the world, I've never been to that area...yet!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all your ideas so far, thats a great help. I do like the look of tarmac, maybe a mix could work ?

 

Also my "fear" of weeds growing through the block paving even with a membrane seem justified. Something I don't want as the driveway should be minimal or no maintenance. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, success1980 said:

Thanks for all your ideas so far, thats a great help. I do like the look of tarmac, maybe a mix could work ?

 

Also my "fear" of weeds growing through the block paving even with a membrane seem justified. Something I don't want as the driveway should be minimal or no maintenance. 


You might want to read:

 

http://www.pavingexpert.com/faqmembr.htm

 

WIth a properly installed block drive, anything but the most destructive weeds (see details in post) do not grow up from below. Most weeds you see on block drives have seeded from above ground into the gaps between the blocks.

 

We ruled out tarmac as we didn't like the look so much, and it was coming in around the same price as blocks. Our research concluded that block would last longer, back with our own (albeit anecdotal) experience when the tarmac would start degrading after 10 or so years.

 

But you're right that blocks will require some maintenance to ensure weeds don't develop - keep on top of that it and it should not be too onerous. This can be mitigated against by applying a sealant (we've not decided whether to do this yet).

 

Edited by AliMcLeod
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...