Onoff Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) Came downstairs this morning to find the place uncomfortably warm. Downstairs CH had been on all night. The controller seems to be at fault. The LCD display has gone all squiffy and locked. I can press either of the grey buttons and nothing changes: Didn't have time to do anything other than whip it off the wall and tape over the connection plate then leave SWMBO a note. Taken it to work with me so I'll whip the cover off and see if there's a replaceable battery in there. Can't honestly remember if I've ever done this before, vague recollections maybe... I'll also chuck a meter on it and see if the relay has failed and is constantly calling on 4: Still, it's over 20 years old so has done well. Surprised it fails "on" though. This one does downstairs CH and HW. Worst case tonight I swap it out for the same controller above that just does upstairs CH. Was debating renewing with a 3 channel controller maybe, that'll do 2x CH & 1x HW. Any suggestions on a make? Edited February 26, 2019 by Onoff 3 to 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Before consigning it to the grave, you did just try and take it off then put it back on the back plate after 30 seconds. ..? This sometimes clears them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 13 minutes ago, PeterW said: Before consigning it to the grave, you did just try and take it off then put it back on the back plate after 30 seconds. ..? This sometimes clears them. Yep did try. Had the back off. Nothing obvious. No idea on the soldered in battery other than it's yellow and has "70" written on it. At rest the pinouts seem correct. 1&2 are NC and 3&4 are NO with respect to L. Relays are obsolete, Omron G6C-2117P-US-SV. Just poked the reset button under the cover and it's come right. Wonder why, never happened before...battery? I'll slap it back on tonight and setup the times again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 At ~20 years old the chances are that the 10µF 63 V electrolytic capacitor, between the relays, may have dried out and caused ripple on the supply. I had this happen on an old time switch about 4 or 5 years ago, and just replacing the capacitor fixed it. The life of capacitors like this is around 10 years or so, so it's done pretty well to last this long. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) 15 minutes ago, JSHarris said: At ~20 years old the chances are that the 10µF 63 V electrolytic capacitor, between the relays, may have dried out and caused ripple on the supply. I had this happen on an old time switch about 4 or 5 years ago, and just replacing the capacitor fixed it. The life of capacitors like this is around 10 years or so, so it's done pretty well to last this long. Will probably have one knocking about. I did think the - end looked a bit odd, like a crack in the factory solder where the lead joins the body: Looking closer I'd say that - and should be soldered to both sides of the board. This side, well it might be making contact with the copper track by there's hardly any flow through: Edited February 26, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 the track holes are through-plated. cap does look dodgy tho... Might also be worth shorting the backup battery briefly as a full reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Update. The controller was "hanging" more often. Up until tonight I've been able to reset it then redo the time, date & settings. Came in just now to the downstairs heating off and couldn't reset the controller this time. Changed the electrolytic, new one apparently Panasonic brand. All appears to be working again. Thanks all, especially Jeremy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 Well that didn't last long! Controller is playing silly buggers again. This despite the new cap. Might try the battery if I can find what voltage it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 (edited) A sh!t end to today! Supposed to be going out, wife had shower, I went for one and she informs me there's no hot water, "the heating's on all the time". I thought the place was uncomfortably warm today but didn't give it a second thought as in and out all day. I did on passing the downstairs stat turn it down from 30 to 25. Thought maybe she was drying washing on the radiators. The lower controller then that does downstairs CH and HW had really had it. Won't even work resetting it. This was the one I replaced the capacitor in. No problem I thought I'll swap them over and reprogram the one that did upstairs CH to do downstairs CH and HW. Didn't admittedly check whether that was working before I removed it. Couldn't make it up but that's now died as well! Won't reset same fault as the first. What are the chances??? Before I buy two of these is there a better alternative? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grässlin-Temperature-Control-Switch-White/dp/B079TYWWP5 Cheers (Pumps leaking too one side just noticed when up in the loft. Where everything's been running flat out all day?). Edited May 12, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 How many channels do you need ..? If it’s 3 just get a new single clock that does the lot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 31 minutes ago, PeterW said: How many channels do you need ..? If it’s 3 just get a new single clock that does the lot. Good shout. 2xCH + 1xHW. What's a good one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 Reliance RW 3 should be change of £35 delivered. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 42 minutes ago, PeterW said: Reliance RW 3 should be change of £35 delivered. Ta. I've found two models with that RW3 designation: & Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 Can I just jump a live to 3 to put HW on constant and have the cylinder stat control it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 Didn't you convert your system to S-plan, didn't you? Knowing that might help somebody who knows what they're talking about say whether that jumpering would be a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 RW3 Three Channel Electronic 7 Day Heating Programmer https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QVM6VK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KMi2CbPSR3RNJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 9 minutes ago, PeterW said: RW3 Three Channel Electronic 7 Day Heating Programmer https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QVM6VK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KMi2CbPSR3RNJ Thank you. Ordered. That other RW3 I pictured above, older model? Seemed simpler for SWMBO to use tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 (edited) Numpty question: Why is there a SATISFIED connection on a cylinder stat when there isn't on room stat? As I understand the room stat; clock calls for heat via terminal 4 on the controller and goes to COMMON on the room stat. If bi-metallic strip is closed then the stat DEMANDS heat, fires the boiler via the 3 port valve. Room heats up, bi-metallic strip in the room stat opens, no more DEMAND, boiler stops. So why the need for the SATISFIED connection on the cylinder stat? Why can't it just be a case of bi-metaĺlic strip opens when the cylinder reaches temperature and boiler stops? And why does it go back to 1 on the controller unless it's to do with the unused terminal 2, CH off? I must be not understanding something obvious, apologies! Thanks. Edited May 13, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 guessing it's to give DHW priority over heating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 26 minutes ago, dpmiller said: guessing it's to give DHW priority over heating? But with my wiring plan I can have either CH, DHW or both so guessing that feature / SATISFIED wire is redundant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 remind us what zone valves you have plz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 47 minutes ago, dpmiller said: remind us what zone valves you have plz. 2x2 ports & 1x3-port: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 Ok so that’s just for a mid position valve wiring as if you give it grey and white by either heating on, and hot water off or hot water satisfied, it will push the valve across to the heating only port. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 30 minutes ago, PeterW said: Ok so that’s just for a mid position valve wiring as if you give it grey and white by either heating on, and hot water off or hot water satisfied, it will push the valve across to the heating only port. Thanks. If, with the controller removed and the base plate exposed I jump L to 3, will that fire up the boiler to give me a tank of hot water? The cylinder stat should then do it's thing and cut heating when the stat temperature is reached. It'll be a day or do for the new controller. Likewise can I jump L to 4 on both controller bases and get CH back controlled solely by the room stats? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 Yep you can bridge those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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