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Eye watering cost of Oak


ProDave

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So I had some spare time this morning and did the bare bones of a "floorboard" oak door frame

 

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Here is the detail of "that join" near the bottom:

 

door_frame_2.thumb.jpg.5bd3bd22679651caac19fe835c24069e.jpg

 

We are now "evaluating" it before deciding whether to continue, and waiting for the joiner to visit and see if he ha any better ideas.

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While waiting to decide how to move forwards, I briefly thought I had found a solution.

 

I noticed in the new Howdens catalogue they stock Oak veneered door  frames. I am sure they were not in the previous catalogue.  So I called in for some prices.

 

Bearing in mind some I would need to double up to get the thickness, so the price for 14 door frames was...............

 

 

 

 

 

 

£700 plus VAT.

 

Yes dearer to buy an oak veneered door frame than to buy the solid planed oak and make one.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The decision has been made to proceed with the "floorboard" door liners.  I have enough wood for the upstairs ones, with the joint at the bottom.  The compromise is I will try and source a wider door stop so less of the underlying door liner is actually visible.

 

So far 4 of them done, 2 more to go.

 

For cutting them to width, the first one I just planed, but found it hard to get a straight finish.

 

Since then I have been cutting them with the circular saw, as a pair with both good faces together and using my aluminium rail as a guide.  The resultant cut edge is clean and square and just needs a little sanding.

 

 

frame_cutting.thumb.jpg.1edda1b116bcb1dba1ec4aba4e2ddfcc.jpg

 

I still need to source some 2100 by 180mm oak floor planks for the downstairs door frames.

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  • 2 months later...

Just an update to this.

 

I had enough left over floorboards to make the 6 upstairs door liners (with a joint at the bottom of each)

 

After a long wait, the joiner came this week to hang all the upstairs doors (he is a busy man)

doors_1.thumb.jpg.58d20e8dd18b81fc0e35ac10cd5a0306.jpg

 

doors_2.thumb.jpg.ff170bbb636bc6022dd3461034030710.jpg

 

doors_3.thumb.jpg.910628db0b75d4bb0cf23e00f6291638.jpg

 

 

doors_4.jpg

 

A late edit. this is how they ended up with door stops and architraves

 

architrave_1.thumb.jpg.ef1aa9ee9ec9bcaf16b8688b163e3552.jpgarchitrave_2.thumb.jpg.76978169b2a152e836c324c7dac71755.jpgarchitrave_3.thumb.jpg.f34fe14b96e0240e57a887a56c9a7b0e.jpg

 

No door stops or architrave yet, that will have to wait a bit.

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  • 1 year later...

DIY OAK door frames MK2:

 

The upstairs ones based on engineered oak floor boards ended up good, apart from "that join"  Try as I might I could not find any engineered floor boards long enough to not need a join, and it has been decreed there will be no join in the downstairs door frames.

 

I looked at buying planed oak and making my own, but it is hard finding it large enough and the cost, and the chance of it warping or cracking.

 

In the mean time I bought strips of 12mm by 70mm solid planed oak for the door stops, and got experimenting with the offcuts. And came up with this:

 

door_frame_3.thumb.jpg.98bf6ab7b641caf15c0b8d5274cd8abd.jpg

 

First build a "door frame" out of 22mm chipboard making it 24mm over size in width and 12mm over size in height.

 

Then glue and screw (where possible) a 70mm by 12mm strip of planed oak each side.

 

In this case the door will be fixed to the right hand of the two strips of oak.

 

Then when the door has been hung, a third strip of planed oak will be fitted (depicted here by the short strip) to bridge the gap and act as the door stop.

 

I am awaiting the joiner to fit the first door and try this.  If it works I have 2 more to make each for a double door set.

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  • 5 months later...

Well after what seems forever, the doors are finally finshed.

 

My home made Oak door frames as described above worked well, but it took ages sourcing enough Oak from the builders merchant to complete them all.  They were only receiving small batches with several weeks wait before they could get any more.

 

Then having completed the frames, I tried to contact my trusted joiner to get him to hang the doors, but he was not answering his phone or answering texts, so I hope he is okay.  In desperation I hung them all myself, which is not a job I enjoy or am particularly good at, but needs must.

 

doors_5.thumb.jpg.68bafd12e2f49c970e7d6e4e98e0da9d.jpg

doors_6.thumb.jpg.4f5070f18cdece27be069ebffb32eeea.jpg

doors_7.thumb.jpg.a4a6742a748cd24caff4eac698ee77ba.jpg

doors_8.thumb.jpg.eb383eadeac8b4ac55688802c025d2f9.jpg

 

The Architraves and skirting are Howdens Oak veneered MDF, cunningly sold in lengths just too short to get 2 full uprights from, hence the use of corner blocks to make the lengths needed slightly shorter.

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That's what happens when you let SWMBO see a door catalogue.  She didn't want the cheap TP oak doors with straight "planks"  She wanted glazed and took a liking to these (upstairs are the same style but solid)  they are XL Joinery doors a little over £200 each, but they were much cheaper on line than any of the local merchants could offer them for.

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Prefinished I take it. 

Also with the arc not being long enough I presume you are using metric size doors? 2040+10+70 2120mm with no allowance for clearance at the bottom. Lengths 4.2. So wasteful why don't they sell them in 4.5s. 

 

Would the equivilant imperial sized door have been cheaper?

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No they were not pre finished.  They didn't offer the 2040 doors in pre finished, so those are 2 coats of Osmo door oil,  I had to contact XL joinery because the first words in the instructions was "Do not oil" but they said they are happy with Osmo oil.  At least that means everything is bare Oak and 2 coats of Osmo.

 

Yes imperial doors would have been slightly cheaper, but there would have been much greater choice, and the arc's would have done 2 imperial lengths.  All the corner blocks were cut planed and sanded from a strip of larger planed Oak.

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