ToughButterCup Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Wallplates are nearly all up now. ?? Can I screw the joists to the wallplate before I attach the joist hanger? I ask because I'm doing it on my own and I think I may be able to fix the joists more accurately by screwing them first and fitting the joist hanger after I am satisfied with the position of the joist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Temporary screws to hold them in ..?? No reason not to as long as you don’t split the joist ends. And don't forget to use twist nails for the hangers - screws are a no-no ..!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 Hmmm. Yes, temporarily just for accuracy. Your point about splitting them made me think though. I might just have to prop them in place and then fix with hangers and nails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 I cannot see why you would do it this way. When you mark the wall plate for the spacing you would trust your pencil line (measure twice an all) so why not just attach the hangers and this will make your life a lot easier Ian. Just be in time for the Patten arms opening if you get a move on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Mark the inside edge of the joist on the wall plate and fix the hanger onto the plate lined up with this. Only fix one side permanently - a couple of screws will hold the other side of the bracket. Drop the joist in , tighten up the bracket and finish fixing and move on to the next ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 23 minutes ago, PeterW said: Mark the inside edge of the joist on the wall plate and fix the hanger onto the plate lined up with this. Only fix one side permanently - a couple of screws will hold the other side of the bracket. Drop the joist in , tighten up the bracket and finish fixing and move on to the next ... What I always do ( as it’s a one man or one man plus slave job then ). You can also just screw a 5x2” to the underside of the plate to create a shelf for the joist to sit on. One screw down from the top, through the joist into the plate, and then drop the shelf back off to fit the hangers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 1 hour ago, PeterW said: Temporary screws to hold them in ..?? No reason not to as long as you don’t split the joist ends. And don't forget to use twist nails for the hangers - screws are a no-no ..!! How come screws are a no-no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Just now, Vijay said: How come screws are a no-no? Don’t have the shear strength of sheradised twist nails. The spec for a bracket is quoted based on it being fixed by “x number” sheradised or galvanised twist shank nails - usually in every hole of the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 (edited) I usually use props, one each end, two pieces of 2x4 slightly too long (floor to under side of wallplate) wedged under the wallplate, hanger and joist, makes sure they all line up then pop in the sheradised twist nails. Same as I do to put up plasterboard ceilings on my own. I have seen many examples of hangers installed badly with a gap under the joist where the hanger is not flat to the underside of the joist, bad practise IMO and a bugger to get plasterboard fitted tight to ceiling. Edited November 24, 2018 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 What I did for my joists was to clamp a stick to the top of the joist to rest over the header. If the stick is stiff enough and the clamp is tight this ensures that the top of the joist lines up with the top of the header and still allows a bit of movement for the bottom of the joist to get the best compromise on verticality of the joists (some of mine were a bit twisted so it wasn't possible to get both ends completely vertical). 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Screws aren’t a no no, you just have to use a screw specific to the hanger. Look at the manufacturers spec. @recoveringacademic don’t try and reinvent the wheel mark the plate up with a hanger and a set square, and as nick said a piece of timber to act as a shelf, then just drop all the joists in after you could have fitted all the hangers while the pole plate was on the deck, but now it’s up just do as above. You will find it easier to swing the hammer without a joist in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Just to be different I fit all the hangers first, with an off cut to make sure the bottom is in the right place. Issue with this method is the timbers all have to be the same size to avoid the floor undulating. But unless you use a thicknesses on every one, one side is going to suffer, technically should be the ceiling iirc but you can’t have everything. Other than that my only advice would be to use 40mm twist nails. They’re over spec but you won’t hit your fingers as much with them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 3 hours ago, Construction Channel said: Other than that my only advice would be to use 40mm twist nails. Yes, I do that. Strong-tie specification says 30mm twist nails but when I'm nailing into the engineered timber I used for some of the floor structure (in place of C24 to easily get lengths longer than 7.2m, with the SE's OK) I found 30s went in alarmingly easily so I use 40s. Ditto when nailing into OSB. 40s also help with softer wood as the nail has to go in further to get established so having a bit more to hold helps. Into proper structural timber (C16 or C24) then whichever of those I have to hand. Into the flanges of JJI beams always 30mm as I fear them splitting. For the floor I did a lot of the nailing wearing gloves (“Beast from the East” time) so held the nails with a pair of long-nose pliers while getting them started. Also usually do that if the nailing is at all awkward, e.g., doing the the corner nails on angle brackets, particularly if there's a bit of a restriction on swinging the hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 11 hours ago, PeterW said: Don’t have the shear strength of sheradised twist nails. The spec for a bracket is quoted based on it being fixed by “x number” sheradised or galvanised twist shank nails - usually in every hole of the bracket. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 23 hours ago, Ed Davies said: What I did for my joists was to clamp a stick to the top of the joist to rest over the header. If the stick is stiff enough and the clamp is tight this ensures that the top of the joist lines up with the top of the header and still allows a bit of movement for the bottom of the joist to get the best compromise on verticality of the joists (some of mine were a bit twisted so it wasn't possible to get both ends completely vertical). [...] Elegant. Of the techniques suggested, yours, Ed (the Scottish one) , appeals the most. I'll try the others too just for reference. The post on your blog about checking your laser has got me thinking too. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 Not heard of that one before but very simple and effective , it’s what I would do in future but not planning another build ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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