Jump to content

WBS and Flue position


Recommended Posts

We have a chimney which is to service the WBS when it gets commissioned in early December. Unfortunately the builders positioned the hole for the register plate too far back in the hearth area causing the WBS to sit further back in the "hole" than we would have hoped for. I have spoken with the installers and they say there is nothing we can do to bring it forward. I suggested a double 45 degree bend flue pipe set up but he said because it is a chimney and not a twin flue system, the pipe needs to go vertically from the WBS to the aperture in the register plate.

Now, once I have been signed off so to speak is this something I could fit retrospectively or is it a complete no no ?

Thoughts welcome.

Edited by Redoctober
typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not speaking with any authority but I have seen all manner of set ups and to conclude I think WBS are very forgiving. Just the other day I set up one in a shed for an event..... just plonked it on the ground, put a flexi pipe on it and wired it up to the door frame..... total hash but it worked great. When we were finished I took of the flexi pipe and shoved the stove back under a tarp for storage. Can you fit the pipe to come out the back of the stove ? You need to be able to clean the flu from inside the house, usually they have a T at the bottom with an access hatch to put the rods up. What you don’t want is to create an area that ash can accumulate and potentially block the flue......... 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a limit of 4 bends in total for a flue system.

 

Can it come out of the back and then turn rather than coming out of the top?

 

In what way is it too far back? too tight for manufacturers clearances or just aesthetics?

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So that’s a 300mm straight into the stove, 45 degree elbow with a sweeping access, and then a 45 back up into the register plate. 

 

All within regs and perfectly reasonably assuming you keep 3 x D from that oak mantle. Just check the door and the hearth though as that may be a limiting factor. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Gav_P said:

What have you got on the walls within the fireplace? Is it wet plastered, board and skim, fireboard? 

 

If its its any form of plaster it will definitely crack with the heat generated by the stove. 

 It is the appropriate type of render applied by the installation team, so I'm hopeful it won't crack!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used NoMorePly as the board and then had it skimmed but its directly onto blockwork so the board is just there as a decorative finish. The stove also has a full soapstone casing yet BRegs still treat it as though its got a normal steel skin !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An update - thanks to @joe90 I contacted the installer and he has confirmed the flue will be coming out of the stove at the rear, so this will push it forward some mm's which in turn should improve the look beyond it's current situation.

I have to say, the service I have received from the installer has been well below expectations - but as we all know, we live and learn!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

I'm going to drag this kicking and screaming from the past with a question.

 

It turns out that our system chimney ends up bringing the flue into the house (through the Ignis Protect insulator) a wee bit lower than would be optimal for our chosen stove. It's at 45degrees.

 

The regs drum on about elbows being a max of 45deg and a maximum of 4in a system, with a 90 seen as 2x 45s.

So this means it's acceptable to use a 45 to bring the pipe to horizontal, and then a 90 to drop it into the stove

but does this then *not* allow (say) using a 15 as soon as it leaves the wall and then a 45+15 onto the top of the stove? As the resultant 60 isn't specifically mentioned and otherwise there'd be "too many" changes of direction?

That would seem preferable to me as a 60 is less restrictive than a 90, and there would always be a chance of condensate drips from a truly horizontal section

 

Am I being stoopid?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Part J is confusing. 

 

I think section 1.48 and 1.49 applies to all flues not just solid fuel appliances.

 

1.48 says "Where bends are essential, they should be angled at no more than 45° to the vertical."

 

Diagram 15 on page 27 Part J says "90 degree bends not suitable for solid fuel".  

 

So I think for a WBS you should use 2*45 degree bends to make a 90. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, dpmiller said:

It turns out that our system chimney ends up bringing the flue into the house (through the Ignis Protect insulator) a wee bit lower than would be optimal for our chosen stove.

 

Have you actually built the chimney already?  Normally you can just raise the entry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 20/11/2018 at 17:57, Redoctober said:

Now, once I have been signed off so to speak is this something I could fit retrospectively or is it a complete no no ?

 

We fitted ours after completion.

 

I had quite a problem getting the right register plate to go from the stove pipe to the chimney because the company I used kept sending the wrong parts. Apart from that it wasn't too hard.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...