Tyke2

New build - heat and energy considerations

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42 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

 

Very true.  People who have visited our build have questioned the low level, directional, MVHR terminal in the wall by one side of our bed.  It was specifically located there to gently blow cooler air on her side.  We also have a 6ft wide new bed.  Both are a way to mitigate the migration of the duvet in the middle of the night, as it gets thrown off from her side.  My hope is that the cool air supply plus the larger bed will mean less disturbance to the duvet on my side...

 

My answer to that would be a bed in 2 independently adjustable halves and 2 duvets... So she can have polar bear hide and you can have a bedsheet.

 

I think they are called a Split King.

 

 

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21 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

 

Ear plugs (I have the same problem - and no, it's not me, either).  Best ones I've found are the Stanley orange foam ones, a pair is OK for about a week (yes, I know they are supposed to be "one use only", but I've never had a problem with them over the past five years or so).

 

What's the technique, wait till she opens her mouth and shove the ear plugs in still in the bag?

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2 hours ago, lizzie said:

I cant get my UFH working and after frying all summer am now searching the garage for a fan heater. MVHR keeping it at circa 20 but thats way too cold for me.

 

UFH thermostats show a flame but floor never gets warm on checking the manifolds I find the pipes are cold so there is no hot water coming in from the boiler even though the boiler is firing, hence flame symbol on stats.  DHW is fine so it must be a prob from boiler to manifolds.  The system was commissioned last December, builders were here for months afterwards and I know now fiddled with it all because the house was too hot.  Now I come to use it for the first time and it doesnt work.  Begining to wish i had DG with tricklevents and rads at least I understand that system.

 

 Been waiting two weeks for installer to come back to sort the issues with mvhr - he installed ufh too so if I tell him now no heating will that hurry him up or be ignored...if he doesnt come next week I am going to have to find a plumber to come and look at it all but because I never had a proper handover I dont know what most of it is no doubt I will get the sucking in of the teeth and the which cowboy did this comments and a four figure quote to sort it out. @newhome I understand your frustration with it all. 

 

Start a thread and the forum will talk you through what you normally adjust, and that might do it.

 

It helped me a great deal a at the start of this year .. I did not have my ufh circulating pump set properly so heat was not getting round Far enough.

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1 minute ago, Ferdinand said:

 

Start a thread and the forum will talk you through what you normally adjust, and that might do it.

 

It helped me a great deal a at the start of this year .. I did not have my ufh circulating pump set properly so heat was not getting round Far enough.

+1. 

@lizzie, get typing and snapping as it’s probably summat daft. ;)

 

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49 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

Best ones I've found are the Stanley orange foam ones

 

I prefer the Howard Leight Laser Lite ones. Always take a pair with me when staying in a hotel in case I get noisy neighbours.

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13 minutes ago, newhome said:

 

I prefer the Howard Leight Laser Lite ones. Always take a pair with me when staying in a hotel in case I get noisy neighbours.

I just get bladdered and the place can burn down around me 😎👌👍

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5 hours ago, lizzie said:

I cant get my UFH working and after frying all summer am now searching the garage for a fan heater. MVHR keeping it at circa 20 but thats way too cold for me.

You are obviously not in  the "hot flush" phase then. :ph34r:

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I have set the thermostats at 21C, seeing if I can get away with that or have to go to 22.

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On 14/09/2018 at 16:41, ProDave said:

Old house, like this one has a conventional central heating time switch to set the on and off times, and when it's on each room has it's own room stat.....

 

A lot of systems that I wire for people have "set back" rather than off.  I always believe that is to stop a house getting too cold over night so it does not take too long to warm up in the morning.  But given the very long time constant of our house I see that as completely pointless.

 

When I asked Uponor who supplied our (old house, listed cottage, single-glazing, ground floor insulation with UFH, rads upstairs, loft insulation, oil condensing boiler) UFH system controller why there is only "set back" and no way to time heating to OFF, they insisted it was more efficient to lower the night time temp a bit rather than turn it off completely.

I find this very hard to believe. Can someone please confirm/explain?

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Set back is more about how long it takes UFH to heat up, so by not allowing to room to get too cold, it won't take so long to warm up again.

 

In our new well insulated house if I implemented set back, you could probably measure it in days before the set back temperature brought the UFH on again. It certainly would not over night.

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1 hour ago, Hastings said:

 

When I asked Uponor who supplied our (old house, listed cottage, single-glazing, ground floor insulation with UFH, rads upstairs, loft insulation, oil condensing boiler) UFH system controller why there is only "set back" and no way to time heating to OFF, they insisted it was more efficient to lower the night time temp a bit rather than turn it off completely.

I find this very hard to believe. Can someone please confirm/explain?

You set the setback temp ( actually it’s referred to as nighttime / unoccupied “economy” temp ( aka ‘off’ ) and daytime “comfort” temp ( aka ‘on’ ) )  to the lowest temp you can accept the house falling to at night.

youd probably be best setting it to 16oC and most of the year it’ll likely not come on much anyway. 

The generic ‘economical’ advice you got is just knee-jerk I-can’t-be-bothered-to-go-into-detail reply. Pretty much the norm. 

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Our old house (1980's bungalow, with some improvements to insulation and airtightness) just had a programmable thermostat that was set exactly as @Nickfromwales has said, 16 deg C as the unoccupied/nightitme temperature, 20 to 21 deg C for the occupied temperature.  Worked OK because that house only took an hour or so to heat up, and cooled down almost as quickly when the heating went off.  I never turned the heating off in summer, as the thermostat settings meant it just didn't come on most of the time then.

 

As @ProDave has mentioned, such a system wouldn't work for our new house, which like his takes days to cool down and many hours to heat up.

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