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If you have different height walls front and back the sides will need the top course cut and the wall plate will need mortar bedding to give it proper support.  Doors, windows, tall furniture, pictures, mirrors etc may loo a bit odd if placed on the sloped walls.

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1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

If you have different height walls front and back the sides will need the top course cut and the wall plate will need mortar bedding to give it proper support.  Doors, windows, tall furniture, pictures, mirrors etc may loo a bit odd if placed on the sloped walls.

 

Yea, I see the point, what I have not understood is, where do the firring strips sit if my joists are going the other way I want the slope to be?

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3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

If your at 400 centres with the joists and you use a firring piece that is 2" at its thinnest then you'll only have to noggin the last couple on each piece. Once it's sarked you'll be rock solid. 

Screw the sark boards, not nails ;)

 

I will try to figure this out :D still confusing to me (sorry for newbieness)

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2 hours ago, hmpmarketing said:

 

I will try to figure this out :D still confusing to me (sorry for newbieness)

Just draw another sets of 4" timbets over the top of the ones you already have, running perpendicular. Then those run from 4" to 2" over the 6m to create the pitch for the flat roof sarking boards. ?

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7 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just draw another sets of 4" timbets over the top of the ones you already have, running perpendicular. Then those run from 4" to 2" over the 6m to create the pitch for the flat roof sarking boards. ?

 

Good morning!

 

I must be misunderstanding this completely...the joists are running over the 8m span, not the 6.....the slope would not be to the rear, but to either left or right?

 

7 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

another sets of 4" timbets over the top of the ones you already have

 

noggins.thumb.jpg.4f4aab446397ce0b70fe8fb923cddc20.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Ok lol. So the slope is down the 8m run ? 

If so, the firring pieces will be fixed down on top of the joists starting from 2" and tapering to nothing. 

 

Correct if Im wrong...what length would the firring timber be? from what I understand they are long runs (max size I found was 4.8m)?

 

Thick head me!

Edited by hmpmarketing
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First hit on Google was this: http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/treated-firring-47mm-x-50mm-to-nothing-3-6m-length.html

 

It is 3.6m.  If you need longer you can extend from the fat end with 47mm x 50mm with a firring piece on top.  For a further extension you will need a 47mm x 100mm with a firring on top.  I think some places will make up whatever size you like so you don't need to use 2 pieces for each section.  Just see which is cheaper.

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39 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

First hit on Google was this: http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/treated-firring-47mm-x-50mm-to-nothing-3-6m-length.html

 

It is 3.6m.  If you need longer you can extend from the fat end with 47mm x 50mm with a firring piece on top.  For a further extension you will need a 47mm x 100mm with a firring on top.  I think some places will make up whatever size you like so you don't need to use 2 pieces for each section.  Just see which is cheaper.

 

36 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Sorry. Typing whilst working. 

A decent timber yard will just slice up and deliver what you need when you give them the length and fall ?

 

Ok I will call up and check :D 

 

Quick number crunching, I just had a local timber merchant return me a quote for posi-joists so have got in front of me 2 options for the main roof structure:

 

Universal Steel Beam 6M - £423

Timber Joists - Structural Graded C24 Treated Carcassing Timber 47mm x 200mm x 5.4m (37x) - £851

Total: +/- £1274 (Inc VAT)

 

Posi Joists: 6800mm (14x) + Gabble Ladders 6800mm (2x) + Framing Anchors (56x)

Total:  £1440 (Inc VAT)

 

What would you guys say about this? 

Edited by hmpmarketing
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5 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I have not read back through the thread but the steel will prob be quite heavy, may be a thermal bridge and need web packing / joist hangers where if the I beams just span wallplate - to - wallplate they will be simpler.

 

I did think the same thing, just left the option here so the forum can decide for me!! :D  But the price difference with the posi joists compared to less work do make it attractive

 

The quote also includes the gabble ladders, Im no joiner  nor a specialist, but I believe these 2 would be for the overhangs on the left/right? If so, much easier to build :D 

Edited by hmpmarketing
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