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Please Guide my Build!


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17 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

 

Ok. 

Your pic shows 2x 4m timbers making up the 8m span. That I assume means your showing the break in the run on top of the 6m steel ?

 

Hi @Nickfromwales sorry for being thick hehe

 

Yes, there is a break in the run on top, just not visible. 

 

18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

The 8x3" would be in the middle of the steel, sat on top, running along its length and positioned vertically. The joists would then be made off into joist hangers affixed to the 8x3. 

Clear as mud ? I'll do a pic if your not sure. 

 

the red line I draw is the 8x3, so it runs on the top of the beam like the sketch yes? then the joists would be attached to this 8x3 with brackets I assume?

 

A pic would help if thats not a lot of work ? 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, PeterW said:

And I think you’re going to hit an issue with  eaves height if you’re not careful with your roof build up ... 

 

With the block walls being 2.85, I have currently 3.05m with the timber sitting on top of the beam., so left with 150mm (went for 3.20m in height)

 

So I have got 11mm OSB for decking, 100mm insulation + 18mm OSB3 top deck, then EDPM

Edited by hmpmarketing
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8 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

I'm just wondering if I'm feeling cruel enough to make you show the noggins :)

 

The noggins, yea, just feeling lazy :D I will draw them in now 

 

8 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Looks good. With the PIR and full full wool in the voids that should be a decent make up.

 

By PIR, you man just a piece of the celotex insulation?

8 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Dont forget to dig the slot in the ground for the swim-jet.

 

Did plan for that, wife does not agree though :D

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10 minutes ago, hmpmarketing said:

noggins @Nickfromwales

 

noggins.thumb.jpg.70cd5942ccee5d6af4f4ba4412312873.jpg

 

Im also wondering, should the timber joists be sitting on a wall plate (timber) where they meet the concrete block work?

? 'ng good, but I'm a bugger for lining up the noggins and dovetail nailing / screwing instead ofcend fixing the staggered runs. 

A treated timber would make life easier for pinning the joists and would give you something to fix a pelmet to if that would be aesthetically pleasing. It may cause issue though if you intend rendering up to a soffit board as there would be a 2" gap of timber between the blockwork and the soffit.  

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3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

It may cause issue though if you intend rendering up to a soffit board as there would be a 2" gap of timber between the blockwork and the soffit.  

 

makes sense, and yea, we will be rendering up to board, so I guess I would have to use angle brackets to connect the joists to the masonry.

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

How do you plan to achieve the required fall?  Timber firrings are normally cheapest.  Not sure where the gutters will be.

 

Plan would be to me the walls a different height to achieve the angle, gutters would probably be at the rear wall

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