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Hardie backer board / ditra


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so against my natural tendency to pick up tools and do something I'm sat at home pricing up stuff and ordering - its murder but has to be done. Tiling is my next job - my trusty tiler is booked up to Nov / Dec and I can't wait that long so I will do it; he called around on Tuesday and suggested the following (floor is 22 egger board on 600mm joists):

 

6mm Hardi backer board stuck down with 'sticks like' & screwed.  He said his experience of flexible adhesive and the backer board wasn't good so uses the 'sticks like' now. 

 

Has anyone else done this?   Should I stick to normal flexi tile adhesive?  (no pun intended here) What screws should I use?  not great reviews of the hardi screws....

 

A friend has used Ditra matting (again stuck down with flexi adhesive) - its not massively different in price per m2  - is this a better option?

 

Too many options nowadays ....

 

Any words of wisdom would be good!

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1 hour ago, CC45 said:

so against my natural tendency to pick up tools and do something I'm sat at home pricing up stuff and ordering - its murder but has to be done. Tiling is my next job - my trusty tiler is booked up to Nov / Dec and I can't wait that long so I will do it; he called around on Tuesday and suggested the following (floor is 22 egger board on 600mm joists):

 

6mm Hardi backer board stuck down with 'sticks like' & screwed.  He said his experience of flexible adhesive and the backer board wasn't good so uses the 'sticks like' now. 

 

Has anyone else done this?   Should I stick to normal flexi tile adhesive?  (no pun intended here) What screws should I use?  not great reviews of the hardi screws....

 

A friend has used Ditra matting (again stuck down with flexi adhesive) - its not massively different in price per m2  - is this a better option?

 

Too many options nowadays ....

 

Any words of wisdom would be good!

It’s fine stuck down with flexible 

Dont forget to sbr the back of the board

We do it all the time W specially if there are any bad shapes on the floor Fill any hollows stick your boards down Leav an hour then screw down 

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I don't ever use the backer board, as in not once in over 20 years of bathroom fitting. 

The Egger is a stable interlocking floor already glued and screwed / nailed so why backer board is even in the equation is a mystery to me. 

If it were over crappy old floorboards then I'd half understand it, but not a candidate here afaic. 

Sticking a rigid board down on top of a gun adhesive is nuts. There will be loads of area where there is no contact between the board and the deck so a bad idea IMO.

Hardie don't as per this vid 

 

 

Why not just glue and screw plywood down like I always do?  Not lost a patient yet ?

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36 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

I don't ever use the backer board, as in not once in over 20 years of bathroom fitting. 

The Egger is a stable interlocking floor already glued and screwed / nailed so why backer board is even in the equation is a mystery to me. 

If it were over crappy old floorboards then I'd half understand it, but not a candidate here afaic. 

Sticking a rigid board down on top of a gun adhesive is nuts. There will be loads of area where there is no contact between the board and the deck so a bad idea IMO.

Hardie don't as per this vid 

 

 

Why not just glue and screw plywood down like I always do?  Not lost a patient yet ?

Agreed

Thats why I use an adhesive

No point in back buttering the tiles if there are voids under your board 

 

I think the 6 mil backer has become so popular As it allows you to put thicker tiles down

If you use 18 mil ply you can end up with quite a step

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Over 22mm P5 i use 6mm at 400c and 9mm over 600c. I've never laid a thicker ply that that other than to purposefully raise the floor. I put the glue down for ply over Egger with a vinyl floor layer trowel so the PVA has a 2-3mm notch.

If there's movement in the Egger your screwed anyway as the tiles will still give.

If the Egger has been gas nailed down they're usually 3 to a joist. I always fix 5 10x2" per joist so would recommend screwing next to every nail and ensuring there's 5 fixing to a joist.  

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5 hours ago, CC45 said:

so against my natural tendency to pick up tools and do something I'm sat at home pricing up stuff and ordering - its murder but has to be done. Tiling is my next job - my trusty tiler is booked up to Nov / Dec and I can't wait that long so I will do it; he called around on Tuesday and suggested the following (floor is 22 egger board on 600mm joists):

 

6mm Hardi backer board stuck down with 'sticks like' & screwed.  He said his experience of flexible adhesive and the backer board wasn't good so uses the 'sticks like' now. 

 

Has anyone else done this?   Should I stick to normal flexi tile adhesive?  (no pun intended here) What screws should I use?  not great reviews of the hardi screws....

 

A friend has used Ditra matting (again stuck down with flexi adhesive) - its not massively different in price per m2  - is this a better option?

 

Too many options nowadays ....

 

Any words of wisdom would be good!

Didn’t see the last bit

Ditra is your best option

ive used Ditra on my three bathrooms Don’t use tile adhesive to stick it down

Ardex or simalar Hardly any build up Waterproof and will never give you any problems 

Ardex about £30 15mtrs coverage 

sites £5 ish sqmtr 

 

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OK,  thought it would get more complex!

 

The 22mm boards are glued and screwed & 600mm centres so

 

@Nickfromwales would spread PVA glue on the floor with a 2/3mm trowel & stick some 9mm ply down (what type?) & then screw as well (10x1" screws? - any particular type?).  I assume the ply then needs sealing before tiling?

 

@nod would use Ditra stuck down with Ardex (this OK? https://www.ctdtrade.co.uk/ardex-x-7-standard-setting-flexible-tile-adhesive?color=301&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7JS-j7Wr3AIVB7DtCh3atwXfEAQYAyABEgLyj_D_BwE) - I assume a 6mm trowel would be OK?

 

Since both of you are way more experienced than me I would be foolish not to use either of these techniques.... but which one?????

 

Always so many choices.:(

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4 minutes ago, CC45 said:

OK,  thought it would get more complex!

 

The 22mm boards are glued and screwed & 600mm centres so

 

@Nickfromwales would spread PVA glue on the floor with a 2/3mm trowel & stick some 9mm ply down (what type?) & then screw as well (10x1" screws? - any particular type?).  I assume the ply then needs sealing before tiling?

 

@nod would use Ditra stuck down with Ardex (this OK? https://www.ctdtrade.co.uk/ardex-x-7-standard-setting-flexible-tile-adhesive?color=301&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7JS-j7Wr3AIVB7DtCh3atwXfEAQYAyABEgLyj_D_BwE) - I assume a 6mm trowel would be OK?

 

Since both of you are way more experienced than me I would be foolish not to use either of these techniques.... but which one?????

 

Always so many choices.:(

No Use Ardex AF200

with a 4 mil trowel 

You can walk on the matting as soon as it’s down

With any matting it’s important that you don’t get to much adhesive under it 

If you mark out for on length You can roll it out with your hands Then flatten the Ditra down with a grouting float 

Then any tile can go into it with a flexible adhesive 

No priming needed

 

 

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15 minutes ago, nod said:

No Use Ardex AF200

with a 4 mil trowel 

so this ....

https://www.ctdtrade.co.uk/ardex-af-200-plus-uncoupling-matting-adhesive?size=213&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1NHJyL6r3AIVybvtCh0_xQEIEAQYAiABEgJejfD_BwE

 with

http://www.tilegiant.co.uk/4mm-square-notched-trowel.html

 

@Nickfromwales - are you happy to use Ditra matting...... or do you always use ply?

 

off to the site now for a few hours of tool time....

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7 hours ago, CC45 said:

so this ....

https://www.ctdtrade.co.uk/ardex-af-200-plus-uncoupling-matting-adhesive?size=213&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1NHJyL6r3AIVybvtCh0_xQEIEAQYAiABEgJejfD_BwE

 with

http://www.tilegiant.co.uk/4mm-square-notched-trowel.html

 

@Nickfromwales - are you happy to use Ditra matting...... or do you always use ply?

 

off to the site now for a few hours of tool time....

What's the m2?

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1 hour ago, CC45 said:

~ 16m2

No need for decoupling then IMO as the last floor I did over PJ at 600c was around 35m2. That was 22mm P5 ( D4 glued and screwed x5 per joist run, 2" No.10 screws ), 6mm ply glued and screwed at 120mm centres ( that needs to be observed religiously ), tile adhesive and 600x600 porcelain

on top. 

Not a squeak and it also had wet UFH in spreader plates so goes through heat / cool cycles too. I know the dicks who fitted the joists too, so I doubt any strong backs went in or the joists were fitted properly either. 

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21 hours ago, CC45 said:

OK Nick - any particular spec of ply?

In my area builders merchants sell a few different grades of plywood. All is claimed to be wbp but some is dire quality and how they can claim it's waterproof I've no idea - it seems to have more in common with a well known brand of breakfast cereal. Shop around and go see what it's like.

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10 minutes ago, Temp said:

In my area builders merchants sell a few different grades of plywood. All is claimed to be wbp but some is dire quality and how they can claim it's waterproof I've no idea - it seems to have more in common with a well known brand of breakfast cereal. Shop around and go see what it's like.

 

The marine ply I've had from TP was specially ordered in and is superb imo.

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

The marine ply I've had from TP was specially ordered in and is superb imo.

How much for an 8x4 and what thickness for the marine. If not huge areas then I supposed better to go belt n braces, but ive never done that as I tank the shit out of wet rooms anyway. 

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