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Tanking A Wet Room


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24 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Do the joints and the  pocket edges

+1

Slapping more over anywhere that looks shy isn't a problem, but you want to first do the walls where the adhesive filled the gaps which tbh you can get on with now. The wetfloor area needs tanking through the day whilst you arse around elsewhere and then tiling the following day. As your on a slab, it'll absorb any water from scrapes or dings, so get the tiles all cit, honed and dry laid, number them up, and get a chuffing mix on boyo.

"It is time, my young crappprentice". ;)  

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Can I "stop 'n start" with tanking?

 

I'm thinking, given the advice, to do the 1.3 x 1.3 floor area, pocket edges and filled joints with membrane. Then tape the wall to floor junction - that'll be +3m of the tape used up o/of 10m.

 

Option to tape the vertical joints either side of the mitre...I think I should?

 

 (Leaves me 7m of tape for round the bath).

 

I was thinking tape the joint between the flat (marine ply) deck the bath sits on, up the mrpb wall at the back and the ply on the long side:

 

20170108_160709

 

The reason I'm asking about stopping 'n starting is I'm probably getting another bottle of primer and full bucket of tanking membrane but not until next Friday. Thinking I could do the rest of the floor then...

 

Maybe even do the tanking and get the wet room corner tiled now?

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 19/07/2018 at 07:22, PeterW said:

Why are you tanking Aquapanel which is by definition waterproof....

 

Do the joints and the  pocket edges etc but unless you're going to have seriously bad aim, around the WC is pointless. 

 

And as @Nickfromwales says - this needs to be done the day before tiling and you don't want to be putting joints in it...!

 

Says on the primer label that it can be used on "cementitious boards...and speciality wet room boards". 

 

IMG_20180730_231840595.thumb.jpg.b41e644aeff570b8a8b936eebfed6f4d.jpg

 

Does that not suggest ALL the Aqua Panel needs doing not just the joints?

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16 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Says on the primer label that it can be used on "cementitious boards...and speciality wet room boards". 

 

IMG_20180730_231840595.thumb.jpg.b41e644aeff570b8a8b936eebfed6f4d.jpg

 

Does that not suggest ALL the Aqua Panel needs doing not just the joints?

 

Not unless you’re going to tank all of it... 

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19 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Not unless you’re going to tank all of it... 

 

I was originally intending to, at a minimum, tank the wet room corner floor, nom 1.3 x 1.3 AND all the walls including the pockets above this area - roughly straight up in line with the SBR container on the left and milk container on the right:

 

IMG_20180730_235428229.thumb.jpg.8082e0d95539898f1d1588ab2032d180.jpg

 

As said before if I do that, the 7.5m sq. kit isn't really enough to do this which works out as below. I wonder if I could maybe do the higher section of the wall in SBR?

 

Wet room corner floor is 1.3x1.3 so 1.7m2

 

The mitred wall bit is 1m2

 

Each wing with the pocket in is 2.47x1.3 so 3.2m2 x 2 = 6.4m2

 

 Over 9m2 just there

Edited by Onoff
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13 hours ago, CC45 said:

I primed it all - not that expensive so a cheap insurance.  Tanking has well bonded to mine.

 

What did you prime with, the stuff that came with the kit or SBR?

 

& how the Hell is 1L of primer in the kit supposed to cover 7.5m2 it's just not possible?

Edited by Onoff
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I've calculated that if I stop the tanking 2.1m up the wall (below the red line) I should have enough in the 7.5m sq kit to do all the walls pockets and floor area.

 

IMG_20180731_144833973.thumb.jpg.d821ca0de553a4234af07f991ecf45cd.jpg

 

Just got to make sure this towel radiator loop is holding pressure and I can get that bit of board on round the pipe and tank!

 

Going to start from the red line and prime working down then onto the floor. Tbh if I run out I'm going to finish off with SBR before applying the membrane.

 

I've also ordered another 7.5m2 tanking kit for around the bath etc.

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Turns out 1L of  Aquaseal Primer goes quite a way! In face quite a bit more than the 7.5mthey say. Only needed one coat as the mrpb and Aquapanel aren't by nature overly porous. Even the DIY cast shower area concrete didn't take it in too much as it was laden with SBR when I mixed it.

 

So all primed inc the area under and behind the wc. 

 

IMG_20180731_174921455.thumb.jpg.f611ce195edf98d49a40c37bca55dce8.jpg

 

IMG_20180731_174937374.thumb.jpg.78e01188e89e7bba3d01dc43be0211b6.jpg

 

Then onto tanking EXCEPT I needed to incorporate the Geberit wall drain's own tanking "flaps" into it all. For this I've used the liquid tanking membrane as @Nickfromwales said. 

 

The video reckons the flaps fold out all nice and neat like in this still shot.

 

ger2.JPG.bd2df7271672a5de7eaa0b5ade820ace.JPG

 

They also appear to bed it down on tile adhesive but the thought was this will be too thick. So with the kit's 3" brush I liberally applied liquid membrane behind where the flaps go and left to go tacky. Maybe should have left longer as a couple of bubbles that won't stick down for love nor money! Tbh not that bad really.

 

Mine were a bit rouched at the sides. I think maybe the drain is set a little lower than it should have been. 

 

IMG_20180731_193611916.thumb.jpg.952c838406895d266665f7c13b6c0036.jpg

 

Only thing was to CUT the inbuilt membrane on the vertical face and overlap as best as.

 

The video shows the wall drain flaps (under the pink area) being overlapped by the tanking strip that goes at the wall/floor interface. 

 

ger1.JPG.6b30e70fa6dca072bfcb207fad407bc2.JPG

 

BUT I need to wait for the liquid membrane that beds the drain flaps to go off. Then I'll run the tap over that like in the still above.

 

Looks like this now:

 

IMG_20180731_212001281.thumb.jpg.93f9925c0efb7ffe7f55276e2c9f4332.jpg

 

So I'm waiting! Will probably do the strips in the morning and put on the first main coat of tanking membrane (brushed horizontally) on the walls, pockets and floor. Might then go get my Larsen primer and adhesive and do the second tanking coat (brushed vertically( when I come back.

 

Downside of this membrane is I now have a hairless and sore left forearm where I let it dry! :) A big plus though is the brushes etc wash out under the tap.

 

For now it's back to the Party Seven can and the telly! :)

Edited by Onoff
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21 minutes ago, CC45 said:

use a roller for the tanking membrane - better overlapping and more even depth. Also quicker - although you won't obviously be interested in that!

 

Everything I've read & watched says a big brush and for seemingly good reason. First coat gets brushed horizontally. Second coat goes on vertically so brush lines are straight down. Thinking being if water gets under the tiles it runs down in the vertical "grooves" in the membrane.

 

Interesting in that as this bit around the wall drain is drying it's contracting and looking better / tighter.

Edited by Onoff
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10 hours ago, CC45 said:

I put about 5 layers on with the roller - some going horizontal & some vertical.  II was worried about depth of tanking - didn't need to be.

 

The Geberit wall drain area has dried off really well tbh, better than I thought. There's one bit where I cut it due to the rouching that I need to stick down. Was even thinking a dab of CT1 in that hole and push it down? You can see on the rhs where I had to (jagged) cut on the diagonal the stuff due to the rouching. It's tough as old boots and a pig to cut! The top bit laps over the bottom bit of course.

 

IMG_20180801_084456860.thumb.jpg.ae6cc2a386f26e254c20dd10edffad5f.jpg

 

As said elsewhere I've ordered another 7.5m Aquaseal kit from Amazon. I want to do around the bath and there'll be that much left I'll go around the basin area too I think. Reckon I'll end up with the whole room tanked!

 

I had hoped to get the tiles down but I'm going to tank the primed areas today then wait until the other kit comes thru and just carry on from the primed / tanked edges where I finished.

 

A random thought but using the tanking membrane I recognised the smell. It's I think identical to Febond Blue Grit I'm sure (aside from the grit). I got the Blue Grit for my plastering attempt. Tried it and then decided not to use it (despite much advice not to even bother :ph34r: ). Skimming the labels and looks pretty much the same to me. 

 

Aquaseal Tanking Membrane:

 

IMG_20180801_083757233.thumb.jpg.5329f4330b4abc73edac3cbc7e605091.jpg

 

Febond Blue Grit:

 

IMG_20180801_083715539.thumb.jpg.da9a8eda755dbb3193ff3ce0c0ebdb95.jpg

 

Guessing I could have saved myself a few quid on the second kit by priming the area with SBR then after letting dry used the Blue Grit? Of course I'd have still needed more Aquaseal Tape.

IMG_20180801_083757233.jpg

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It just tells you the preservative is the same - not the contents of the container !!

 

Mixing parts of a system and changing components without understanding the underlying chemistry is a really bad idea...

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1 minute ago, PeterW said:

It just tells you the preservative is the same - not the contents of the container !!

 

Mixing parts of a system and changing components without understanding the underlying chemistry is a really bad idea...

 

Ta. So is all that ingredient list just for the biocide?

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I stick to the same company for all the bits on each job - how else can you hold them responsible if it goes wrong?

 

The tape always seems to run out - and its expensive to buy on its own.

 

I would seal that slit and then loads of tanking over the top.

 

I found it dried quickly (it was during that really hot spell) - so with the three areas I was doing I could just keep going until I run out of the tanking fluid.

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29 minutes ago, CC45 said:

I stick to the same company for all the bits on each job - how else can you hold them responsible if it goes wrong?

 

You see I'd chance it just for the adrenaline rush! :)

 

That plus my conspriracist thinking that it's all made in the same factory anyway!

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The floor and nearest internal angles away from the main shower area always get done in a wet room. Its to stop water tracking to the nearest porous material ( your sponge-like plasterboard or ply ) and wicking up it slowly until the shit hits the fan. No need for taking solution on the WC wall, but id certainly use solution over the tape to wall junctions. 

Tanking start / stopping no problemo. Tank all the cement board in the shower area, like you weren't ever going to do that anyway :D   

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Tanking the Aquapanel is weird...like the membrane isn't keen to "cover". Takes a second coat to get it looking 'bluer". The Geberit flaps and Aquapanel tape suck up the membrane and look much bluer though.

 

Used half the tanking membrane. First coat. Darker patches where I've gone over it again. Genuinely done ceiling to floor. Wonder if I need some more applied higher up, especially over those jointed areas?

 

IMG_20180801_115904582.thumb.jpg.df38cc7926bf68d57d64aafd2829ca09.jpg

 

I've not gone all the way up the wall behind the WC...figured my aim isn't that bad! Besides, with age I find the velocity isn't what it was... :)

 

IMG_20180801_115924829.thumb.jpg.d5aebb935835c4dbda08e339c9967860.jpg

Edited by Onoff
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9 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I've not gone all the way up the wall behind the WC...figured my aim isn't that bad! Besides, with age I find the velocity isn't what it was... 

 

You have a son. You both like a beer or 3. Just sayin ? 

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