Onoff Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) So the window reveal: 60mm cavity block wall that the wind howled up! 27mm insulated pb (Gyproc from Travis Perkins) cut to fit. Sides support the top: Foamed: Foam trimmed, mortar brought up level. Spray glue on the reveal and strips of DPM: DPM on all 4 faces: Go mad with Sikaflex EBT around the edges, low expansion foam in the middle: Bottom bit weighted down. Sikaflex bead against widow frame and pb pushes onto it: Top and sides wedged temporarily: Set: Small child bribed into marking the pb from the inside: Sorted: Edit: Note in some areas the centres are more than 400mm. Where the pir is a bit loose between studs I used expanding foam to fill any gaps. Edited July 16, 2018 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 I should add that I only used 27mm insulated pb as anything more (plus tiles) would have encroached too much on the window frame. I also have no cavity closers to speak of. The cavities up the side of the window appear to have had a piece of expanding foam folded into a "V", wedged into the cavity and rendered over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 Brilliant onoff.. very tidy job indeed! lots of help for me there, I'll use these as a guide- appreciated. How do you get the green pb (is this gyproc, from TP?) to not show any nail holes though.. assuming they're @ the 400mm baton lines/ I assume you don't need to plaster onto that, do you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, zoothorn said: Brilliant onoff.. very tidy job indeed! lots of help for me there, I'll use these as a guide- appreciated. How do you get the green pb (is this gyproc, from TP?) to not show any nail holes though.. assuming they're @ the 400mm baton lines/ I assume you don't need to plaster onto that, do you? I hadn't screwed it yet in that pic! Edited July 16, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 I see! muppet me.. told you I was a novice! Ok tell me why we need such humungous screws? those torx monsters look like a similar thimg to a 'frame fixing screw', which I used to fix a 1" door frame I whipped up. These are still big buggers @ 4", going in 3" to the wall but use rawl plug things which sit in the batten/ frame as well as the wall. But those torx scare me.. Is there any reason for such a massive screw to just fix battens to wall? or, are they designed to be bigger, in order to go w'out rawl plugs-? Is it a Q of using so many as will likely be needed for all the battens, that my frame-screw idea will just be alot costlier in £ & time.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 (edited) 38 minutes ago, zoothorn said: I see! muppet me.. told you I was a novice! Ok tell me why we need such humungous screws? those torx monsters look like a similar thimg to a 'frame fixing screw', which I used to fix a 1" door frame I whipped up. These are still big buggers @ 4", going in 3" to the wall but use rawl plug things which sit in the batten/ frame as well as the wall. But those torx scare me.. Is there any reason for such a massive screw to just fix battens to wall? or, are they designed to be bigger, in order to go w'out rawl plugs-? Is it a Q of using so many as will likely be needed for all the battens, that my frame-screw idea will just be alot costlier in £ & time.. The concrete screws are quicker to use than rawl lugs plus a normal screw, as you do not need to mess around etc. With a multi material drill such as these Bosch items, you can drill through the wood into the brick in one go. After the first 268 screws, you understand the difference in not jug fling drills, and the big time saving, The concrete screws can be had for perhaps 10-15p each, but are VERY expensive at DIY sheds, Screwfix aren’t too bad for those price wise, but others will know of good online sources. The concrete screw self taps into the sides of the hole you have drilled without the need to mess about exposing your hole to insert the plug. One warning - the hole for the concrete screw needs to be exactly the right size ... a 6.5mm drill instead of say a 6mm drill will lose the grip. Try not to choose ones that need a difficult size drill. @Onoff has chosen 100mm screws for the worst case, which is 30mm+ required in the wall, and two battens. Personally I might have used 90mm. Nothing to stop you having a couple of lengths. Also, just get a check from someone else on the distance between the screws on the board ... you may not need quite that many! I don’t know the approved no off the top of my head but that looks like slight overkill. F jug fling = juggling, but the new word is better. Edited July 17, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 The last concrete screws I used (which worked brilliantly) I used a drill 0.5mm smaller than recommended, very tight hold (but might depend on wall type, brick,block!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 I did go overboard on the plasterboard screws perhaps Think I started doing them at 200mm centres, someone then said 150mm would have been better...I got carried away! If you're really bored: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd As @Nickfromwales says, screws are cheap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 54 minutes ago, zoothorn said: I see! muppet me.. told you I was a novice! So get you project done, and it will no longer be the case . Compare this with page 1 of the thread, and your questions are already far more focused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 16 minutes ago, Onoff said: I did go overboard on the plasterboard screws perhaps Was it you that insulated an entire building with expanding foam rather than sheets of insulation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 (edited) Haha I like that.. Ok what size concrete screws then, for 1" batten + 9mm pb ? & regarding drills: can you tell me if mine are ok here? The bosch is a swiss VG one, with a hammer whatnot (a guy gave me/ was binning at a recycle dump!) & a 12v old makita. New worktop temp in place.. already a relief to rid the old horrorshow. What interval distance between batten fixings as a ~basic rule? Edited July 17, 2018 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 30 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Was it you that insulated an entire building with expanding foam rather than sheets of insulation? Is that possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 (edited) 12 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Haha I like that.. Ok what size concrete screws then, for 1" batten + 9mm pb ? & regarding drills: can you tell me if mine are ok here? The bosch is a swiss VG one, with a hammer whatnot (a guy gave me/ was binning at a recycle dump!). New worktop temp in place.. already a relief to rid the old horrorshow.. What interval distance between batten fixings as a ~basic rule? Not being clear. Sorry. I meant drill bits, not the drill. The link is to a set of 4 bits that were recommended and I have found to be good that can drill wood and brick. £7.99 from Screwfix. 10 minutes ago, zoothorn said: that possible? Probably not, but that wouldn’t stop him. There’s a photo somewhere. Edited July 17, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Probably not, but that wouldn’t stop him. There’s a photo somewhere. Here you go. My Google-Fu is strong today. A dedicated try-anything-once experimenter - admirable. Especially the willingness to talk about it. Edited July 17, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 That's an interesting look for interior.. sort of a modern f'arty shoreditch lunar or something. Drill bits.. ah ok! that's important to get the right size for the fixing. Once I know what size screws & I'll nip in & get + roof batten.. & get cracking today on this. very grateful chaps- zootH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ferdinand said: Was it you that insulated an entire building with expanding foam rather than sheets of insulation? Ah, you mean the shed? Might have done..... To be fair only 1 1/2 walls and the floor... Edited July 17, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 On 23/06/2018 at 18:26, Ferdinand said: ? Ferdinand- thx for drill bits link.. buying from screwfix today > TP for battens & concrete screws. So I'm off running on this job today. Now I have old worktop off, I see spaces behind the units.. but.. interrupted by a few unit 'walls' perpendicular to the back walls. How do I negotiate a C'tex job around these? I assume I need to do behind units too or cold will whack in here.. not just down to worktop? Is there a calculator to tell how much C'tex stuff, and PB I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 31 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: A dedicated try-anything-once experimenter - admirable. Especially the willingness to talk about it. More of an admission /cry for help... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 2 hours ago, zoothorn said: Ferdinand- thx for drill bits link.. buying from screwfix today > TP for battens & concrete screws. So I'm off running on this job today. Now I have old worktop off, I see spaces behind the units.. but.. interrupted by a few unit 'walls' perpendicular to the back walls. How do I negotiate a C'tex job around these? I assume I need to do behind units too or cold will whack in here.. not just down to worktop? Is there a calculator to tell how much C'tex stuff, and PB I need? Celotex normally comes in 2400x1200 sheets. You need to space your battens carefully so the edges of 1200mm plasterboard sit on the centre line of a batten where 2 boards meet. Also need to ensure support at the internal corners. ANY gaps in the wall, round pipes, wastes, in the brick / blockwork need filling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Bloomin torx heads.. Im rifling thru my bits & found only one/ a fluke if it fits the 80mm screwfix concrete screws I'd planned to buy in town. Are these type of screws only available in torx head? whats the deal with torx anyway.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 Torx are far better than other heads, won’t torque out at all, will break your wrist before it lets go. Screws in velux windows use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 22 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Bloomin torx heads.. Im rifling thru my bits & found only one/ a fluke if it fits the 80mm screwfix concrete screws I'd planned to buy in town. Are these type of screws only available in torx head? whats the deal with torx anyway.. Not sure but you may well get a bit in each box. Check ?. Or buy a set from SAf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 You get a little black T30 bit in each box: I use these bits in preference: In one of these: If you're going to get serious about your refurb then imo a decent cordless drill/driver and compatible impact gun will be invaluable. Many on here like Makita 18V LXT stuff. You can add cordless saws, grinders etc later on and they'll all share the same battery. You COULD tbh for this just use a 230V mains drill with the impact bit in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Nice little makita. mine's an oldie, but japan & huage, only 12v.. but is a fine thing. might put a pic up of me shovel.. Onoff- you mean you get a bit foc in with the screwfix torx concrete screws x100? that would be great. Gonna crack on with this tmrw- off work ill with major nerve pain pills/ no router stuff for me: so slow kitchen work about all i can manage & no safety stuff to be concerned with like up me ladder, just drill work. as I float around kitchen.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 3 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Onoff- you mean you get a bit foc in with the screwfix torx concrete screws x100? that would be great. Yep, you get the little T30 but you'll need to put it in a standard magnetic holder shown next to it: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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