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Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.


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Could someone help on my tiling plan.. I've looked at www info, centrelines etc/ perfectly simple for the cooker area.. but my config for this awkward sink side "L" shaped corner worktops + 2 window areas, doesn't tally with anything 'standard' afaict.

 

What I plan to tile is.. from the RHS of the sink sill: 60cm H of this corner area + the thin strip under sill 2.

 

Thanks alot zootH

002.JPG

Edited by zoothorn
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You could keep the terminal block or use the standard ceiling rose connections as convenient. Assuming you don't keep the terminal block, the wiring colours in your existing connections are not completely mad and going clockwise from lower left in the diagram on this page for reference: https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/ceilingrose.htm

 

Neutral terminal: your two black wires and also the neutral down to the light (blue).

 

Earth terminal: your two yellow/green sleeved wires plus any earth wire to the light if it needs it (i.e., if it has exposed metal bits - instructions will say if it needs an earth and it'll have an appropriate cable supplied with it).

 

Switched terminal (“live” in that diagram or “line” in more modern terminology):  your red wire and the line (brown) to the light.

 

Live terminal: leave unconnected as that's not directly needed by the light and its function is presumably done by a terminal block up in the ceiling (the one @ProDave suggested you go digging for).

 

I.e., standard wiring except you needn't bother with the line connections and your switched line is actually red rather than the more common black in that age wiring.

Edited by Ed Davies
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Hi Ed, thanks for that. One thing I don't understand though.. you say leave the RHS Live junction place in the ceiling rose, unconnected.

 

If this Live junction therefore has -only- the red wire coming in from the lamp itself, & nothing connected to it.. how does the light work-??

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"Whatever, I'd just connect the new light tthe connector block and be done with it". 

 

Read that statement again. Would suggest keeping the connector block wouldn't it?

 

Is there room in the new fitting to hide the connector block? 

 

Post some shots of the new light fitting pls.

 

 

 

 

 

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Ok I see where the discrepency is. You refer to " Switched terminal (“live” in that diagram or “line” in more modern terminology):  your red wire. "

 

Now, on the diagram there are -two- terminals labelled with the word "Live" (Plus, to p*ss me off even more.. on my diagram.. the middle teriminal is labelled "Loop" & the RHS terminal is labelled "Live").

 

Ok to clarify/ condense to one Q. The middle terminal of three-in-a-row (Loop on mine): Are you saying leave this one with no wires connected-?

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4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

"Whatever, I'd just connect the new light tthe connector block and be done with it". 

 

Read that statement again. Would suggest keeping the connector block wouldn't it?

 

Is there room in the new fitting to hide the connector block? 

 

Post some shots of the new light fitting pls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It would indeed. But for what reason I have no idea, especially as its so physically big as to make squeezing it in would be extremely tricky (IE in case you meant something else.. or.. there's a reason to which I'm missing/ just cannot understand).

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1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

 

It would indeed. But for what reason I have no idea, especially as its so physically big as to make squeezing it in would be extremely tricky (IE in case you meant something else.. or.. there's a reason to which I'm missing/ just cannot understand).

 

Post a photo of the fitting and the instructions please. 

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

If this Live junction therefore has -only- the red wire coming in from the lamp itself, & nothing connected to it.. how does the light work-??

 

Seems you're sorted, good. But for clarity:

 

1) We're talking about the switched live/line here. Not the permanent live with the loop in/out and the live to the switch which is also in the ceiling rose in the way lights are often wired in the UK but is likely on a separate connector block up in the ceiling in your case.

 

2) Yes, as I first posted that comment I didn't say to connect anything else to it but spotted I'd missed that on proofreading immediately after posting and added, a couple of minutes later, that the live to the light should be connected as well.

 

(It took a few minutes as I drafted some grumbles about that DIY doctor page then decided they'd only likely cause confusion therefore it'd be better not to post them.)

Edited by Ed Davies
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Ok thanks alot Ed- seems like some various terminology which could fool a good few; once I 'd established the likelihood of the red up in the loft could only likely be doing the 'loop' terminal duties I could proceed/ as said I like to understand xyz in principle before I jump in.

 

Great- progress then. Its copper btw! & cheap as chips in B&M for £10 (same as Next ones fwiw).

 

Ok onto the tiling. If anyone can help me on where my tile reference point/ vertical line should be, with respect to my corner area to tile.. I'd appreciate it & can get cracking on this (the corner itself-?)

 

cheers chaps- zoot

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Use a pencil and draw it out on the wall. You don't want to end up with tiny bits of tiles. 

Start with the obvious, a full tile and then a half above and see how the cuts work.

Then try a 3/4 and a 1/4. It's just trail and error to see what works best.

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I think you should make a 1/10 scale model of your kitchen like I did:

 

20180105_231041

 

Then, change your mind on the positioning of some key elements not fully taking into account how it affects other areas and have to solve issues of your own making on the fly...

 

...like I did! 

 

:)

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22 hours ago, zoothorn said:

(Ran Ed's likely logical way.. red just had to go to my Live, or the Switched terminal or there'd always be an open circuit! so all termin-ology aside):

 

 

 

 

003.JPG

 

Once you get the nice new light up you'll forget all about it! :)

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1 hour ago, newhome said:

As Declan says plan it carefully. And ensure that you plan all of the walls to be tiled not just the first one otherwise you may end up with something odd on the other wall like @Onoff :ph34r:

 

 

 

My bathroom is just a dummy run. Come the Lotto win it's all being bulldozed! :)

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

I think you should make a 1/10 scale model of your kitchen like I did:

 

20180105_231041

 

Then, change your mind on the positioning of some key elements not fully taking into account how it affects other areas and have to solve issues of your own making on the fly...

 

...like I did! 

 

:)

 

I can't believe you did a model of your khazi! it looks like the gents on the millenium falcon.

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

 

I can't believe you did a model of your khazi! it looks like the gents on the millenium falcon.

 

Oh yeah! Complete with Princess Leia...

 

2017-12-17_04-01-43

 

2017-12-30_10-06-04

 

2018-01-01_12-49-19

 

Edited by Onoff
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@Onoff can you give me an idea how I finish the 3 sides of the reveal area: do these need finishing before the tiling of the corner area (simply the 2 big pB face areas above blender & gaggia)?

 

I was thinking of tiling today, from the LHS vertical edge @ reveal here >> end on RHS vertical edge of the other sill, as I thought this simplest. But exactly where to start the very 1st tile (relative to the reveal edge, at Left, this -is- where I will start from).. I don't know.

 

Set across the reveal edge 1cm? or flush with reveal edge? if flush then how the bare pB ends will be finished/ how much thickness this will add etc etc.

 

I could tile the reveal.. but, I 'm only going up to 60cm of corner, which equates to 2/3rds way up reveal (if I follow this tile top line around).. so what happens to this last 1/3rd of bare pB reveal sides, & upper reveal section.. also as you can see the sink reveal side has a bad convex 'bow' half way up, so I think tiling this out might be tricky.

 

 

 

 

001.JPG

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I'd first sort the reveal corners by fitting pvc plaster beading to the sides & top then filling & feathering. Like my sketch from about 10 thread pages ago. Also sketched I think in 3D somewhere in this thread....

 

20180810_214722.jpg

 

You affix the beading with the aid of a spirit level so you could probably lose a lot of that bow.

Edited by Onoff
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I first make good the 3 reveal edges (top & sides) with pb trim and feather it in with filler like Easyfill 20. You have to fill all your screw holes sometime too. This after fitting the sill. Then I'd think about putting tiles on using plastic trim and a corner piece. Something like this:

 

zoot.thumb.jpg.caec8c42c9778b658c5418d1eb3fd3ed.jpg

 

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