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Basework on slope/ cabin.


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14 hours ago, Onoff said:

That's going to feel awfully high when you're doing that roof! ? Especially working over the rushing waters of the Grand Canyon! 

 

Rushing waters? erm tiny trickle.

 

Yup i now too see this will be high, so if it needs a 3 stage ladder I can borrow one (& Ive sourced a pB lifter £25 for a day so I can pay my other chap 2 hrs to help if needs be).

 

What are your thoughts on this gap above my PIR & the floor tho? (2nd shed pic @ side shows how the gaps are). All thru/ under floor.

 

Have I ruined/ negated the PIR? or I'm wondering is the main purpose of it to stop cold coming -up- to the floor so its still valid-?

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49 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Rushing waters? erm tiny trickle.

 

Yup i now too see this will be high, so if it needs a 3 stage ladder I can borrow one (& Ive sourced a pB lifter £25 for a day so I can pay my other chap 2 hrs to help if needs be).

 

What are your thoughts on this gap above my PIR & the floor tho? (2nd shed pic @ side shows how the gaps are). All thru/ under floor.

 

Have I ruined/ negated the PIR? or I'm wondering is the main purpose of it to stop cold coming -up- to the floor so its still valid-?

 

006.JPG

 

Think I'd be looking at filling the edges in at least with pir or eps and filling in the gaps with treated timber. 

 

This is the two halves upturned of the FLOOR of my shed:

 

SAM_7424_zps616a81ba

 

Done in cans. What was I thinking! 

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@Onoff ok I'm not gonna be able to fill vast majority, either fire in beads or foam/ no. Fill with treated timber? with this +5mm PIR protrusion it means trimming the tops of loads of timber 4x2.. not possible/ feasable job, for me. So I can only do PIR-offcuts in the side gaps I think.

 

Anyway least I can attack this once shed up/ time to consider. I hope at least I -have- gained stopping cold from comig UP from ground as it is, even if I can't fill the voids.

 

thx

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54 minutes ago, ProDave said:

With hindsight, it would have been a good idea to paint the outside face of all those logs before assembly. Now you have to perch on a ladder resting in the stream.

 

Actually it'll be fine I think, the stream's practically a trickle & I can whack it on quick no window- its just getting to the roof that side thatll be the only challenge.

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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Careful with that short scaffold board you're using for temporary access on the deck area. Inadvertently stand on the end and.....

 

Thanks Onoff.. I have it clamped LHS. Its walking off the long plank is more likely. and Im reading a book on pirates at the mo too..

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5 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Thanks Onoff.. I have it clamped LHS. Its walking off the long plank is more likely. and Im reading a book on pirates at the mo too..

 

I see the clamp now! ? Those two boards sticking out look like a redneck's diving board! 

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8 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Thanks Onoff.. I have it clamped LHS. Its walking off the long plank is more likely. and Im reading a book on pirates at the mo too..

That reminded me of this classic

 

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  • Haha 1
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30 minutes ago, ProDave said:

That reminded me of this classic

 

33ffeab6e69bde70a5c10eaa8a7d6819.jpg

 

Well I think that's quite clever actually.

 

10 hours ago, PeterW said:

You’ve fair cracked on with that and it looks good !

 

Cheers- blitzed in 7 hrs & 3x roof joists on.. just the roof & door area to do. Plan is: re-use the roof t&g's putting them opposite way.. IE alot of lower ends were rotten at ends, so swizzle round these meeting twds ridge & I have good ends to fix edge strip to.

 

I wonder too if my 8x4 osb sheets will be enough, lengthwise mainly, but width too.

 

Then I'm onto the PIR & osb layers.. later today at this rate. Is it best fixing down PIR 25mm? or just 'tape it' / temp fix, then osb screws (presumably best) thru both into the t&g inner layer as main fix, as many as I can into the 3x big roof joists too.. not so easy as t&g nail fix points too, so not much room to squeeze a screw in.

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

 

 

Looking great!

 

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Then I'm onto the PIR & osb layers.. later today at this rate. Is it best fixing down PIR 25mm? or just 'tape it' / temp fix, then osb screws (presumably best) thru both into the t&g inner layer as main fix, as many as I can into the 3x big roof joists too.. not so easy as t&g nail fix points too, so not much room to squeeze a screw in.

 

 

I'm out of date with your plans on this but assuming the PIR ends up sandwiched between wood/OSB on either side then yes I would maybe just use a bit of tape/double-sided tape to hold it in place while you get the next layer on and then that will clamp it in place when you screw it down.

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2 hours ago, ProDave said:

That reminded me of this classic

 

33ffeab6e69bde70a5c10eaa8a7d6819.jpg

 

I've been one of the men acting as counter weights! We did double up on the scaffold boards though as a nod to H&S! T'was many years ago when we had to fix a bracket over a stairwell and wanted a scaffold. The miniature site agent walked the plank and did it himself. 

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1 minute ago, Onoff said:

@zoothorn. SERIOUSLY!

 

If your screwing from the outside in then watch your head on screws poking through! If over length you'll want to trim off with an angle grinder and thin disc.

I wish roofers would do that.  I HATE slated roofs with the slates nailed direct to sarking board and all over the inside there are nails poking through.

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20 minutes ago, andyscotland said:

 

Looking great!

 

 

 

I'm out of date with your plans on this but assuming the PIR ends up sandwiched between wood/OSB on either side then yes I would maybe just use a bit of tape/double-sided tape to hold it in place while you get the next layer on and then that will clamp it in place when you screw it down.

 

Hi Andy- thanks.. very satisfying day that.

 

Yes exactly- PIR sandwich. Right now I've majorly undersestimated the ammount of osb for top layer.. & weeks before I can get delivery of another. So big scratching of head later/ measure up etc.

 

So I just aim to get t&g original roof on now & asses/ maybe tarp & wait for osb.. unless.. I can do the last area with bits: I guess if I work from the front > back (cabin front faces W, & 95% of wind) for better strength, the back 'top layer' isn't I'd have thought structural,  & with a PIR bed beneath & t&g both uniformly beneath (& felt finally above too), I could just screw offcuts in "patchwork" fashion. If I can source any 11mm stuff.

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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

@zoothorn. SERIOUSLY!

 

If your screwing from the outside in then watch your head on screws poking through! If over length you'll want to trim off with an angle grinder and thin disc.

 

Well isn't the best way to fix the osb to the t&g (PIR between).. just all 'over the shop' with screws? so 11mm (osb) + 25mm + 18mm (t&g).. 54mm screws. Call that 50mm & countersink/ press them 2mm's into osb.. presto. No?

 

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20 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Well isn't the best way to fix the osb to the t&g (PIR between).. just all 'over the shop' with screws? so 11mm (osb) + 25mm + 18mm (t&g).. 54mm screws. Call that 50mm & countersink/ press them 2mm's into osb.. presto. No?

 

 

Duct tape some bits of thick card, old carpet tile cut up etc over any protruding ones and cut off another time when you have the kit etc. You'll know all about it the day you cut your head. Scalps bleed big time!

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All day fitting the door! was warped, opening too wide/ frame sections a n'mare.. but all sorted/ & fits great after much patience & determination.. & hugely better than it was before.

 

Will attempt a pic tmrw.

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The roof is gonna be a sod.. 60 t&g's to de-nail, pilot holes redone (so 120 holes) most ends rotten too, so thinking squeeze a pink roof batten on, all along under roof lip L & R > screw down from osb edge into it. There's -just- enough structure in some t&g section ends to be solid enough. I had thought of swixzzking round so rotters at the ridge.. but my joist fix point is very edge, so idea no can do.

 

Any other ideas here chaps/ this is my most fallible bit. Ideally bin the lot/ redo.. but it'll add £80 min. Pic 4 shows the grey rotten ends..

 

 

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

The roof is gonna be a sod.. 60 t&g's to de-nail, pilot holes redone (so 120 holes)

 

Best get on with it then, you could have denailed 20 in the time it took to write that! ?

 

Looking really good, keep going. ?

 

 

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