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Gate Pillars


Onoff

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Little st/st mounting, bezel thing for the video doorbell. Made from an old door kick plate stick welded with 316 rods. Need to knock up an internal plate with a couple of rivnuts on and tack that in:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've got my galvanised gate track all bolted down (years ago) to the concrete footing strip and it's fine. Stainless coach bolts in Fischer plugs:

 

SAM_8380

 

The drive is a long way off of being done (paved, gravel etc, tba). "For now" ? I've just a line of pavers either side of the rail. The bottom edges of the blocks however are resting on the bottom flange of the trach and/or coach bolt heads.

 

SAM_8381

 

SAM_8423

 

I could do with notching or chamfering the bottom corners so the blocks sit lower where they meet and closer to, the rail. At the moment the gap fills up with crap.

 

Would a wet tile saw work to cut these as in the one I used for the bathroom tiles? I mean it's a diamond blade etc...

 

pave_001

 

This is my one but pretty sure I can borrow one where the blade is on a rise and fall and comes up out of the bed.

 

20180625_204706

 

Edited by Onoff
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Don’t over complicate things, as punter said 10-15mm bed and they will be lifted high enough. 

 

You could however ever get a laser from the lads at NASA to cut them. 

 

Or why not cast cast your own pavers, you could make a mould and cast them with a notch. 

Hold on didn’t you just do that for something else. ???

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On 19/07/2021 at 14:03, Mr Punter said:

I would have thought you would lose the flange in the depth of the bedding material - mortar or whatever.

 

This is it now. Just some loose laid pavers against the gate track. It gets mucky and makes the gate stiff to open over this section. 

 

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I must measure the relative heights; block thickness and track height but I need to sink those block edges down a fraction. Pretty sure even a little extra track height would help keep it clean. I'm thinking the blocks abutting the track can eventually just sit there with no bedding underneath, held in by the ones at the side and the sand between the blocks.

 

Worst case I'll have to raise the track on some st/st packs.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Half a plan today then to get the cast cap stones on top of the gate pillars. They're very, very heavy and my lad is more keyboard warrior than lifty, shifty site animal! I'll likely borrow some kwikstage esque scaffold from a neighbour. Better than the time honoured, two dodgy step ladders!

 

Main worry is the mix...

 

The pillar mortar was 4:1 opc/builders sand and of "bricklaying" consistency.

 

Figuring to bed the cap stones on it's got to be drier so as not to compress too much and squidge out the sides. Also we need to be dropping (gently) the cap stone straight down atop the mortar and limit the side to side jiggling, again to limit dislodging the mortar.

 

How dry is too dry for the mortar?

 

IMG_20210701_200305584

 

IMG_20210605_101935847

 

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It won’t squash out - you need it to be wet to bond otherwise it will just sit on the mortar and not bond to it and stay loose. You’ll lose some down the sides but if you’re worried just wrap some cardboard around the tops first. 

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2 hours ago, PeterW said:

It won’t squash out - you need it to be wet to bond otherwise it will just sit on the mortar and not bond to it and stay loose. You’ll lose some down the sides but if you’re worried just wrap some cardboard around the tops first. 

 

Cheers. Just setting up now for the first one.

 

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Done. Mortar was a bit sloppy on the second cap so the bed is a bit thin (but we were rushing cos of the lightning! ? )

 

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Drip bead feature seems to work!

 

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Waiting for the storm to pass as so we can wheel the scaffold up the road back to my neighbour. 

Edited by Onoff
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  • 2 weeks later...

Gave the pillar caps a coat of Bulls Eye 1-2-3. Masked off as best as. Hoping that none has leached through onto the brickwork. Really hoping the neighbours don't think I read the Daily Star or whatever rag it is I used to mask:

 

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Black paint next.

 

Also made a sheet metal folder o/of scrap, a couple of Range Rover valve springs etc so I could redo the stainless shroud for the IP video intercom. 

 

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3 coats of Sandtex microseal on the pillar caps over the course of the day. Not too bad except for a white line underneath where the white primer bled under the masking tape. Maybe touch that up later with an artist's brush:

 

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Not so sure it was in fact a good idea to prime first with the 1-2-3. Cleaning the brush/roller out I used the left over paint on a cast panel I made with a left over cap mix. No primer on that and the Sandtex went on "better". Was going to break this up for the hardcore pile but reckon we'll 3D print some house numbers, paint them and CT1 them on.

 

IMG_20210813_171403646.thumb.jpg.c92afd7b0c645aaf667dd58432e7dffd.jpg

 

Time will tell.

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