Jump to content

Gate Pillars


Onoff

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Flints...

 

I've about 12 or more crates of assorted flints. Each one collected by SWMBO's late cousin, an amateur geologist who saw something in each. So for sentimental reasons they're going in the front of the pillars, 4 panels in total. 

 

I quickly knocked up a ply box and filled with sharp sand:

 

20191117_154434

 

Then had a play with how the flints might fit look. The rough aim was a 1/2" mortar gap around each flint:

 

20191117_154518

 

I initially favoured larger flints as per the lower half here. SWMBO favours the smaller flints in the top half. Think she's right?

 

20191117_160624

 

20191117_163615

 

20191117_163704

 

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Flints...

 

I've about 12 or more crates of assorted flints. Each one collected by SWMBO's late cousin, an amateur geologist who saw something in each. So for sentimental reasons they're going in the front of the pillars, 4 panels in total. 

 

I quickly knocked up a ply box and filled with sharp sand:

 

20191117_154434

 

Then had a play with how the flints might fit look. The rough aim was a 1/2" mortar gap around each flint:

 

20191117_154518

 

I initially favoured larger flints as per the lower half here. SWMBO favours the smaller flints in the top half. Think she's right?

 

20191117_160624

 

20191117_163615

 

20191117_163704

 

I think some glazing over that would look incredible!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

The perfect sized flint is about the size of your fist. On such small panels you really can pick and choose your flints. Interweave them between courses as much as you can without it looking silly. The less muck showing the better ??

 

My fist is then about as big or a bit bigger than what I'm calling the "big" flints.

 

Just about to watch some YouTube vids on lime mortar. Someone did say to me the way to lay them was to do in 9" high courses and strap a scaffold board to the pillar front whilst it goes off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

My fist is then about as big or a bit bigger than what I'm calling the "big" flints.

 

Just about to watch some YouTube vids on lime mortar. Someone did say to me the way to lay them was to do in 9" high courses and strap a scaffold board to the pillar front whilst it goes off?

 

If you lay them behind a board I will never speak to you again. 

 

If you are planning to make the panel removable just lay them Like cobbles on the flat in which case you can just make it look pretty and not worry too much about the way the flints are laid. 

 

If you're planning to do it properly then they should be laid to a line in courses. The line is just a guide to keep the courses roughly level and the face flat. Try not to leave a forward slope on the top of each course otherwise the next layer will potentially slide out. If you are not planning to put any cement in the mix you will only be able to do a Handful of courses each day. Then go back to rake out (stick) the joints the next day before you continue with the next courses. 

Also flint laying muck is a lot stiffer than bricklaying gear. 

Let it turn for ages and try to avoid adding too much water. 

THE MUCK IS JUST THERE TO HOLD THE FLINTS IN PLACE. NOT TO STICK THEM TOGETHER. 

 

hth

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

 

If you lay them behind a board I will never speak to you again. 

 

If you are planning to make the panel removable just lay them Like cobbles on the flat in which case you can just make it look pretty and not worry too much about the way the flints are laid. 

 

If you're planning to do it properly then they should be laid to a line in courses. The line is just a guide to keep the courses roughly level and the face flat. Try not to leave a forward slope on the top of each course otherwise the next layer will potentially slide out. If you are not planning to put any cement in the mix you will only be able to do a Handful of courses each day. Then go back to rake out (stick) the joints the next day before you continue with the next courses. 

Also flint laying muck is a lot stiffer than bricklaying gear. 

Let it turn for ages and try to avoid adding too much water. 

THE MUCK IS JUST THERE TO HOLD THE FLINTS IN PLACE. NOT TO STICK THEM TOGETHER. 

 

hth

 

 

Thanks. No it won't be removable panels.What's a fist size  80x80mm maybe?

 

And now more questions! ?

 

Can the lime mortar be hand mixed on a board?

 

Selecting the flints, do you avoid ones that although flat look as though the face has imperfections in? I've yet to try knapping. Do you dress them or just use whatever fits?

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

Thanks. No it won't be removable panels.What's a fist size  80x80mm maybe?

 

And now more questions! ?

 

Can the lime mortar be hand mixed on a board?

 

Selecting the flints, do you avoid ones that although flat look as though the face has imperfections in? I've yet to try knapping. Do you dress them or just use whatever fits?

 

Roughly 80mm high and 100mm deep by whatever length helps keep it to brick courses. 

As for selecting flints you can't be too picky but it is worth spending time to make sure each one nestles well with its surrounding stones. 

It's a natural product so it's a fine line between having character or imperfections. Probably best to avoid cracks though. 

 

We used to "nap" them to an extent. Eg if it was too big it got hit with a hammer to take the bits off I didn't want. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Construction Channel said:

 

Roughly 80mm high and 100mm deep by whatever length helps keep it to brick courses. 

As for selecting flints you can't be too picky but it is worth spending time to make sure each one nestles well with its surrounding stones. 

It's a natural product so it's a fine line between having character or imperfections. Probably best to avoid cracks though. 

 

Thanks. Interestingly those green trays the flints are sitting in are full of water. They've been in there for a couple of years I guess. The water has got into a couple and frozen, splitting them along I guess what are natural fault lines. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

This was my first ever private job ?

15338796786490028498.jpg

 

Nice. Interesting how it's not just the "black" faces pointing outward (which is what we're wanting). 

 

Took this of a pillar I passed somewhere en route to Hever Castle from memory, as I say just the black faces pointing out. I'll stop tomorrow at out church and have a look at theirs:

 

SAM_0592.thumb.JPG.36bbf65635454266c8b05de05f727b38.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Construction Channel said:

I can't find the picture at the moment but if I get a chance later I'll go and take a pic of some of the work on the local church. They napped the flints square and it looks very impressive.  

 

I watch a video of knapping, pick up a flint and think wtf? It's a proper art. I really must make a set of boppers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@mvincentd, ref your question on

@nod's thread about the flint. Didn't even know a glint guillotine existed!

 

I'll be shaping them myself. 

 

To that end I bought a set of copper boppers aforementioned. I virtually destroyed the largest last night within about ten mins of getting it out of the packing! 

 

Think you have to identify a concave surface at which to strike but I think I need a bigger striking tool. A cross between an ice pick but with the weight and width of a club hammer

 

20191122_175710.thumb.jpg.04ee4be0917d996bee28cba634173210.jpg

 

20191122_175721.thumb.jpg.31ed2d86bf8b6159722b3737a430bd7f.jpg

 

So far I'm just making flakes and chips! ?

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I only knapped a few bits under instruction from my block worker, but using his knapping hammer it was easy to make a successful strike.  The harder bit was identifying where to strike...he'd get it right 6 out of 7 times, id get it 1 out of 3.  Unfortunately i dont recall the rule for where to strike now.  His hammer was fairly short handled, not that heavy, and had a 'flat blade' head akin to an inch wide bolster.

 

EDIT; it was called a scotch hammer.  put the underside of your flint against the edge of a block where you want it to split, hit the top where you want it to split.

Edited by mvincentd
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 17/11/2019 at 22:20, Onoff said:

 

Nice. Interesting how it's not just the "black" faces pointing outward (which is what we're wanting). 

 

Took this of a pillar I passed somewhere en route to Hever Castle from memory, as I say just the black faces pointing out. I'll stop tomorrow at out church and have a look at theirs:

 

SAM_0592.thumb.JPG.36bbf65635454266c8b05de05f727b38.JPG

We are not far from Lytham St Anne’s  There are lots of Victorian garden walls done in this style 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to be very careful if using a scutch hammer with a comb in it if hitting really hard stone as the combs can shatter and they can cause serious damage to you. I know as I still have a big bit of comb in the top of my hand, the surgeon said he would do more damage taking it out so said to leave it alone until it caused problems....... 10 years ago. So remember always wear gloves and eye protection. I have not read the whole thread but a scutch hammer is designed for use on mortar and stones  such as sandstone, not hard stone like flint......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...