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1 hour ago, PeterW said:

And then what on top..?? How are they detailing around the rooflights..??

 

Usually a 45deg fillet at the base of the upstand then an inch thick or more up the sides with a wrap of expanding mesh to support if you feel the need (not essential but do so on a steel post). Needs to return into some form of rebate / tuck in the top. Sides sometimes straight not tapered. Nice lead cap to finish off.

 

...imho

 

Done a good few plinths like this over the years but always subbed out the asphalting. Top of lead cap usually 6" off of main roof.

 

As the Welshman says, never lost a patient yet!

 

Only got a Sharpie on me...

 

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8 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Usually a 45deg fillet at the base of the upstand then an inch thick or more up the sides with a wrap of expanding mesh to support if you feel the need (not essential but do so on a steel post). Needs to return into some form of rebate / tuck in the top. Sides sometimes straight not tapered. Nice lead cap to finish off.

 

...imho

 

Done a good few plinths like this over the years but always subbed out the asphalting. Top of lead cap usually 6" off of main roof.

 

As the Welshman says, never lost a patient yet!

 

Only got a Sharpie on me...

 

20181122_145839.thumb.jpg.72b416c80e1b683bace7914e24ab5e49.jpg

 

 

 

 

Now you mention it - that’s almost exactly what he stated !!!! ?

Only difference would be the upstand ( still  have the fillet ) would be thinner otherwise walk on glass frames won’t fit . That was his suggestion.

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Also , which I didn’t realise the hot bitumen isn’t bonded to the concrete ! ?

This was to allow for any movement and prevent cracking . As for the parking area he said cover in polythene and just cement pavers ontop . He did indicate UV was the biggest problem ; but as mine is entirely covered not an issue .

Edited by pocster
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12 minutes ago, pocster said:

Also , which I didn’t realise the hot bitumen isn’t bonded to the concrete ! ?

This was to allow for any movement and prevent cracking . As for the parking area he said cover in polythene and just cement pavers ontop . He did indicate UV was the biggest problem ; but as mine is entirely covered not an issue .

 

Sounds my kinda guy! How old?

 

(Not in THAT sense...unless he's minted! :) )

 

You can mitigate UV damage by painting on solar reflective paint direct to the asphalt. I'll take a pic of a can if I have one.

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41 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Sounds my kinda guy! How old?

 

(Not in THAT sense...unless he's minted! :) )

 

You can mitigate UV damage by painting on solar reflective paint direct to the asphalt. I'll take a pic of a can if I have one.

Don’t know . Didn’t really chat him up ; mid 40’s I guess . I’ve got his phone number if you want to sweet talk him ? 

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26 minutes ago, pocster said:

Don’t know . Didn’t really chat him up ; mid 40’s I guess . I’ve got his phone number if you want to sweet talk him ? 

 

Did you get felt up?

 

Cromasol White btw sold in Asphaltic branches. Also "Solaflex" but that's twice the price.

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21 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Did you get felt up?

 

Cromasol White btw sold in Asphaltic branches. Also "Solaflex" but that's twice the price.

Think he said some mastic perma iko 

Apparently you can create a fall with it also !

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  • 4 weeks later...

Right !

SIG guy recommended roofer .

Roofer guy recommended guy to screed a fall .

The screed has been done ; I can’t walk on it but looks to be a proper job .

Problem is 1 up stand in particular is low - real low .

Maybe just 20mm above the screed .

Bearing in mind hot bitumen has to go ontop the screed so the upstand will be even lower .

I know upstands are meant to be a min of 150mm but that was always impossible in this situation .

I could timber across all the upstands to raise them before the bitumen .

But then I’ll be much higher than the house damp course and much higher than the street entrance way . ?

Trying to think how to make a ‘feature ‘ out of a raised corner ( stilted tiles sitting around glazing ) . Or just not worry - see what happens .

The screed does look spot on fall wise so perhaps it’s less of an issue than I imagine .

Just when it’s meant to be 150mm and I will struggle to get 15mm I worry .

Edited by pocster
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Hey @Onoff !

 

Suppose I fitted this 1 walk on glass frame before the bitumen .

Could he bitumen too it ? Essentially embed it in the bitumen ? . Then he could fillet away from it on each side .

Hope that makes sense !?

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11 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I'm lost...aren't you having block paving atop the asphalt? With the top of the glass level with top of the blocks?

 

Need a section view to remind myself.

Yes . But only on the centre section where you park . Stilted tiles everywhere else I.e around walk on glass 

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1 minute ago, pocster said:

Here we are

 

You can see the lowest upstand with and without the frame . Too be fair his screeding is like perfect !!

 

 

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Can't help feeling that should have  "tuck" on all 4 sides of the upstand. As if you'd put say a 20x20 batten around the shuttering before you cast it. Something for the asphalt to key into. Like my little hand sketch a while back. Then you bed the skylight on whatever goop you're using.

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

Can't help feeling that should have  "tuck" on all 4 sides of the upstand. As if you'd put say a 20x20 batten around the shuttering before you cast it. Something for the asphalt to key into. Like my little hand sketch a while back. Then you bed the skylight on whatever goop you're using.

Roofer looked at all this before said it wasn’t an issue .

He also suggested the screed to falls .

i’ll try to get him back out to take a look ...

Edited by pocster
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Should you run a course of brickwork around for the bitumen to dress up, or does this upstand get done in timber? Make sure the detail is OKed by SIG.  I used adjustable pedestals from Castle Composites but the minimum height is 30mm.  They also do fixed height ones down to 10mm.

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