Jump to content

IVT Ecolane ASHP - any owners out there?


Recommended Posts

Ok so take the lid off and you will find terminals marked L N E P1 P2 A1A2 A3 A5 from memory. 

 

P1 and P2 connect to the pipe stat. L N E connect to the switched output from the time clock (via the room stat)

 

A1-A5 go to the matching connections on the internal board. 

 

Need a 25a rotary switch and some flex to connect - I used HORN. 

 

Should look like this when it’s done. 

 

Time clock controls the on/off, room stat controls the room temps and then the pipe stat does the ASHP signaling. F4CFBF57-9768-4518-A969-790F844FEF36.thumb.jpeg.74c41feac7a5081c84dd99b6ea7459ef.jpeg

 

6B74C5A1-1587-40B4-9DBA-4D434719CA06.thumb.jpeg.6baa6ed4374046cff3d510674c8d8645.jpeg66233A26-5496-40F0-8D5E-E71E34616E62.thumb.jpeg.92a5dc7f7277556b39b6f0a6e2f6b755.jpeg

 

17C09E1C-461C-41C5-BEBE-3D128F26B86F.thumb.jpeg.7ce7ea4bae138e8651c508c77c5c4a45.jpeg

 

for ease - as I had to go one side to the other - I used copper and then use flexis to the termination at the house. Unit sits on Mini Pads from TLC Direct and were £2 each. 

1E99F42A-1600-466A-BB89-F9076CB78490.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

My Kingspan ASHP has no mention of anti vibration pads, should I get some before I bolt it down to the pad?

 

My identical Glowworm doesn't have AV pads either, and the MIs just say bolt direct to the concrete base.  I bolted mine directly down with thunderbolts and there's no noise or vibration at all.  If you look inside you'll find that the scroll compressor is mounted on internal AV mounts, which is presumably why the MIs make no mention of fitting the unit on AV pads.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 12/05/2018 at 19:22, PeterW said:

Yep and I only used these - cheap and easy, they fit under the mounts really well with a penny washer on top. 

 

Minifoot

 

 

I brought 4 of these, nice and cheap ?  However there is no way to secure them to the concrete base - have you simply mounted your ASHP on top of them with and are simply relying on the units weight to prevent it bouncing around?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, readiescards said:

 

I brought 4 of these, nice and cheap ?  However there is no way to secure them to the concrete base - have you simply mounted your ASHP on top of them with and are simply relying on the units weight to prevent it bouncing around?

 

Its 80kg and going nowhere.... Vibration is minimal and tbh they don't really need the feet, I just wanted it clear of the ground.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

 

Its 80kg and going nowhere.... Vibration is minimal and tbh they don't really need the feet, I just wanted it clear of the ground.

I used them because it would be near impossible to bolt mine down directly. I think it was designed by a previous car designer with the mounting bolt holes as inaccessible as possible.  Using the feet you could tip the ASHP over, fit the feet, then stand it back up, drill and bolt down the feet.

 

SWMBO insisted I bolt it down otherwise the wind would blow it over. I know it gets windy here but......

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Guys, 

 

My IVT didnt' come with a pipe stat and i'm wondering is there any particular sort needed for installation? 

 

Also I'm trying to figure out how to set the program on this.   I was looking to get the digital controller on Ebay but they appear to be no longer available. 

 

Basically i want to be able to have Heating running at say 25 degrees and Hot water running at 42 degrees? 

 

Any help much appreciated. 

 

Thanks

Damian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/05/2018 at 16:01, PeterW said:

Ok so take the lid off and you will find terminals marked L N E P1 P2 A1A2 A3 A5 from memory. 

 

P1 and P2 connect to the pipe stat. L N E connect to the switched output from the time clock (via the room stat)

 

A1-A5 go to the matching connections on the internal board. 

 

Need a 25a rotary switch and some flex to connect - I used HORN. 

 

Should look like this when it’s done. 

 

Time clock controls the on/off, room stat controls the room temps and then the pipe stat does the ASHP signaling. F4CFBF57-9768-4518-A969-790F844FEF36.thumb.jpeg.74c41feac7a5081c84dd99b6ea7459ef.jpeg

 

6B74C5A1-1587-40B4-9DBA-4D434719CA06.thumb.jpeg.6baa6ed4374046cff3d510674c8d8645.jpeg66233A26-5496-40F0-8D5E-E71E34616E62.thumb.jpeg.92a5dc7f7277556b39b6f0a6e2f6b755.jpeg

 

17C09E1C-461C-41C5-BEBE-3D128F26B86F.thumb.jpeg.7ce7ea4bae138e8651c508c77c5c4a45.jpeg

 

for ease - as I had to go one side to the other - I used copper and then use flexis to the termination at the house. Unit sits on Mini Pads from TLC Direct and were £2 each. 

1E99F42A-1600-466A-BB89-F9076CB78490.jpeg

 

@PeterW

 

Just looking at your Schematic and I'm wondering were the contacts circled 9-12 are?  

 

I can see the Live Neutral and Earth then A1,2,3,4 B 1,2,3,4 but dont see where the other contacts you refer to are? 

 

Any ideas, i'm mainly concerned about how to set the program for the different temperature levels.   Say 35 for the UFH and 45 for the DHW. 

 

image.thumb.png.c6a1fa05f222a452830f9b1aae739be8.png

 

Any pointers you can give me would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks

Damian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't help with the questions, but it looks a bit like my LG ASHP in so far as thee are a LOT of cables to connect to the HP.

 

I did not want to be fishing lots of separate cables through bits of conduit, which would be even more of a PITA if you needed to add an extra one later.  So I found a bit of 10 core control cable rated at 300V and connected every terminal I was likely to use to just 1 cable, and ran this to a marshalling box inside the house (standard 12 terminal central heating wiring centre) and split the wiring to all the various valves, thermostats and programmers from there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you take a photo of the box they sent you ..? It’s got a series of connections inside. 

 

That 2 zone valve is for the UFH calling for heat and allows the manifold to access either the buffer tank or the ASHP. 

 

You can can do multiple thermostats - you either need a relay to switch them over or use the micro switch on the diverter valve like I have. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks I'll get some pictures tomorrow. 

 

I seem to have the same connections as you as in the picture above.   As and Bs

 

Then in the grey control box i have the 24 v PSU with the 4 connectors either side. 

 

Will get the photos up. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, PeterW said:

That’s the same as mine. WPlan is ok but hot water always gets priority. 

 

You need to switch over the two thermostats either side of the diverter valve so get one with a micro switch. 

 

I dont mind the hot water having the priority as i'm looking at doing the following. 

 

UFH will be able to call for heat at any time once called by the room stats.

 

Hot water will be heated a good portion of the time by the PV (I hope)

 

heating time clock will turn on hot water at say 4pm (as we shower in the evening)  and if the tank is not satisfied by the PV then the ASHP will start to pump at the higher temp to the tank. 

 

I'm still unsure of the details to be honest.   I dont know how long it would take the heat pump to heat the Cylinder once its been switched on so may need to start the heating cycle earlier.   I'm not sure if it will leave us with cold points in terms of heating if the Hot water is going to be on for 3-4 hours during the afternoon evening and the house cools down. 

 

I'm not sure if it would be possible to add some logic to the immersion that if  the hot water isn't at temp by say 7pm then the immersion turns on? 

 

Or would i be better to just buy an in-line heater similar to @JSHarris and ensure that way that We always have DHW?

 

Thanks

Damian

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

I'm not sure if it would be possible to add some logic to the immersion that if  the hot water isn't at temp by say 7pm then the immersion turns on? 

 

Surely if the immersion’s are on a timer, then at 7 they will come on ONLY if the water is not up to temp?(their internal thermostat will detect this). I bought an in line heater like Jeremy but was advised not to use it!! I have still yet to sort my ASHP heating out  ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...