lizzie

Garden tap help

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I have bought some very smart stainless steel garden taps. The plumber has fitted them whilst I was away, he has said this is the best he can do.  I am horrified!  Can anyone suggest where I can get some better fixings. There is a ss cover that goes over the tap end back to the wall to cover the join but he has not put that on, it would be in mid air in his set up.

 

Looking for a new plumber too!

 

 

97665124-A969-45A7-BA93-0119AF331898.jpeg

2EB55F07-1213-45F4-9E73-B18D208E29FA.jpeg

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oohh err, they are a bit posh! 

 

Is there no drain underneath?

Edited by Yzzy

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He’s fitted a standard backplate. 

 

Those ones are supposed to be fitted to a 1/2” iron that is partially in the wall. He would have to take the pipe off, core out a larger hole for the iron and then ensure the other end was soldered or compression fittings to stop it twisting. 

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Can you get access to the other side of the wall?

Are you planning on hanging a watering system or similar on the lower outlet of the tap? if so, how much further into the wall does the tap need to go so that it's neater, but not too close for the device?

 

Possible solution: change the wallplate fitting for a straight BSP female soldered onto the 15mm copper pipe. Drill a larger hole and let that back into the wall. You will need to take the pipe at a right angle to the other side of the wall to prevent it rotating.

 

Edit - 'doubled with @PeterW

Edited by chrisb
doubling
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It looks like you need  something "in the wall" as Peter and Chris suggest. 

 

Chris is referring to something like this soldered to a length of copper pipe.

https://plumbing4home.com/brass-plumbing-fittings-for-solder-with-copper-pipes-15mm-x-12-inch-female-bsp

 

Do all the outside assembly, wrap pipe in tape, pass through wall, set to right depth in wall, cut pipe to length, make inside connection. 

 

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How the ^*^& can he think that you would go to all the trouble of finding an aesthetically pleasing outside tap to then be satisfied with that mess.

People doing jobs like that give other members of their trade a bad name.

 

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Thanks all.  Its the garage wall he just drilled a hole right through there is no problem with access and wall. No watering system on that tap it will go off another in the garden (that tap is a mess too but less noticable). There is a drainage channel filled with gravel below so no problem there.

 

Will another plumber know what to do if I get one out?  

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7 minutes ago, Hecateh said:

How the ^*^& can he think that you would go to all the trouble of finding an aesthetically pleasing outside tap to then be satisfied with that mess.

People doing jobs like that give other members of their trade a bad name.

 

yep I am v upset about it

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Yup thats a great way to make an expensive peice of quality hardware look like shite. Hope you get it fixed up. 

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3 minutes ago, lizzie said:

yep I am v upset about it

 

Ah well try not to sweat the small stuff. It’s a minor irritation at a time of great triumph for you so don’t let the little things spoil the massive achievement of having got this far, and your new life about to start. And this will be fixable (by someone better ;)). 

 

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See now, I'd bring the wall further out...

 

:ph34r:

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1 hour ago, lizzie said:

Thanks all.  Its the garage wall he just drilled a hole right through there is no problem with access and wall. No watering system on that tap it will go off another in the garden (that tap is a mess too but less noticable). There is a drainage channel filled with gravel below so no problem there.

 

Will another plumber know what to do if I get one out?  

 

I'd get the same plumber back to fix his mess - that's clearly not acceptable, and the alternative method above should not be beyond any plumber charging for his time.

I do acknowledge that you might not want to confront him though, in which case this is pretty basic stuff, and should be doable by almost any plumber. The only slightly sticky thing I can forsee is the existing hole in the wall looks like it's in the mortar joint. Expanding this from the 15mm pipe to over 25mm will need a decent drill, and might get tricky if the bit keeps jamming, but even then, it's not insurmountable by any stretch.

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Okay it's fitted badly.

 

BUT my first reaction, is "why fit a chrome kitchen tap outside".  Sorry I hate the tap. I would change it for a standard brass outside tap that looks well like an outside tap.

 

Best of luck getting it re done, but I can't think of anything that will make it look nice. Sorry.

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5 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Okay it's fitted badly.

 

BUT my first reaction, is "why fit a chrome kitchen tap outside".  Sorry I hate the tap. I would change it for a standard brass outside tap that looks well like an outside tap.

 

Best of luck getting it re done, but I can't think of anything that will make it look nice. Sorry.

It is actually a marine grade stainless steel garden tap and matches my other outside fittings. It is a special tap with two outlets and chosen for its design and finish.  Stainless steel outdoor taps are not uncommon.

 

Personally I hate the cheap brass screwfix look and do not want that bang outside my front door.

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1 minute ago, lizzie said:

It is actually a marine grade stainless steel garden tap and matches my other outside fittings. It is a special tap with two outlets and chosen for its design and finish.  Stainless steel outdoor taps are not uncommon.

 

Personally I hate the cheap brass screwfix look and do not want that bang outside my front door.

I very nearly bought the same tap @lizzie - Exterior fixings, door handles etc are all stainless, so I wanted it to match.

The thing that stopped me was the exact issue you're having - they stick out too far when wall mounted like that, and I didn't want to drill a hoofing great hole through my nice new timber frame, and into the living area for the plumbing.

 

I've gone for chrome wallplates with pipe entering at the bottom, and for now, regular brass taps. I've found some smaller stainless taps that look quite nice, so will investigate further, but really needed something quickly as the only other alternative for 'builders water' involved disconnecting the dishwasher to attach a hosepipe.

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I quite like the tap. Reminds me of a morgue fitting...

 

Whatever, it'll freeze just as well as a Screwfix brass one.

 

One of these and no need to call the plumber back! 

 

download.jpeg.9ae5164b0f330986e669cb76795974e1.jpeg

 

:D

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These 'boys' have no soul! :ph34r::ph34r: 

Having said that,  If someone takes the time to explain why these things won't work in the way we expect, we then have the option to compromise, or be prepared to pay the extra to make them work.  

 

On this site - generally - that happens.  BUT other than that, why do some people just shrug their shoulders and do things they way they always have without regard to the customer paying the bill

Oh, and I do know this happens to both sexes.  

 

I hate when someone

(a) just does what I said without explaining the consequences, I am not a builder but neither am I thick.  

(b) says 'that won't work' without explaining why

but I love people who say something on the lines of

I can see what you are trying to do but the issues around this are ... have you thought about ... or ... or perhaps we could ...?

 

Then I can make an informed decision.  

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

One of these and no need to call the plumber back! 

 

One of these and no need to finish your shower ;) ? 

 

 

225506D7-3254-4E76-A052-C4DB1D836175.jpeg

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I would, seriously:

 

1) Measure the diameter of the brass bit. On my fugly one from Screwfix it's 57mm:

 

20180501_193412.thumb.jpg.af3e9cb1678dea0485a21c311d764ad1.jpg

 

2) Draw around the brass bit with a Sharpie. The st/st cover I think will cover the pen mark. 

 

Get one of these a couple/few 50mm bigger than the brass bit diameter:

 

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carbide-Grit-Hole-Saw-Masonry-Brick-Concre-Metric-19mm-to-152mm/323201779781?

 

You then need to remove the outside tap and the bit thru the wall. A plumbers job unless you're confident

 

It'll be a pig to centre your new hole saw over the pen mark as you've a +15mm hole through there!  

 

A bit of ply with the hole saw put thru it will act ad a template to neatly counter bore the wall. Affix the ply with plugs and screws into the mortar joints as they're easily made good.

 

Drill to depth and the brick "plug" should break out neatly. 

 

Or something like that...

 

 

 

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14 minutes ago, newhome said:

 

One of these and no need to finish your shower ;) ? 

 

 

225506D7-3254-4E76-A052-C4DB1D836175.jpeg

 

I've got two showers, this is the al fresco, solar one:

 

2017-04-30_03-44-46

 

;)

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You could just continue that ply on over the tap and stain it...

 

:ph34r:

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Pay attention class ;) 

 

One of these soldered onto a copper pipe. 

PTFE the 'mother of all outside taps' and tighten into the above creation. Slide on the lovely chrome cover first y'all :) 

Use a suitably sized cheapo diamond tile hole saw  to make the necessary recessed pocket ( I'd go for about 70mm penetration ) so the chrome is partly inside the brick. 

Then clear the hole of debris and soak it throughly. Insert the completed assembly and then get a foam can with a straw and pump the hole with foam. ( Take care to seal the tap end with some clear silicone first to stop the foam from spilling out ). 

Leave to set and reconnect the cold feed inside with a compression fitting NOT a soldered joint.

An isolation valve inside makes frost shut down a doddle. 

The tap will easily twist out if you ever need to replace it. Simply PTFE the new one and wind it back in. 

Bingo bango. 

?

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@Nickfromwales when can we clone you?

 

Edited by Hecateh
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1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

Pay attention class ;) 

 

One of these soldered onto a copper pipe. 

PTFE the 'mother of all outside taps' and tighten into that above creation. Slide on the lovely chrome cover first y'all :) 

Use a suitably sized cheapo diamond tile hole saw  so make the necessary recessed pocket ( I'd go for about 70mm penetration ) so the chrome is partly inside the brick. 

Then clear the hole of debris and soak it throughly. Insert the completed assembly and then get a foam can with a straw and pump the hole with foam. ( Take care to seal the tap end with some clear silicone first to stop the foam from spilling out ). 

Leave to set and reconnect the cold feed inside with a compression fitting NOT a soldered joint.

An isolation valve inside makes frost shut down a doddle. 

The tap will easily twist out if you ever need to replace it. Simply PTFE the new one and wind it back in. 

Bingo bango. 

?

Nick thank you so much. I have an isolation tap inside already. I will see if I can get a different plumber to come and do it. Thank you.?

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Even a half decent handyman should be able to do a much better job than your plumber did!

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