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Patio wall lights


daiking

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So this never went anywhere as I'm not shelling out hundreds more on some stupid lights. Patio man disappeared too so there was no rush. Grass has recovered, not much.

 

Question wise, would it be easier (and therefore cheaper) to run a conduit to the end of each leg of the wall and surface mount lights? Would garden wall mounted lights need SWA cable?

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Perhaps a qualified electrician could comment on the possibility of using NYY-J Cable underground in something like 25mm black HDPE pipe to protect it.

 

Would that be much easier to joint in the cavity behind the lights?

 

NYY-J cable (similar to Hituf cable)...

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/NY1dot5slash3.html?ad_position=1t2&source=adwords&ad_id=209463183764&placement=&kw=nyyj cable&network=g&matchtype=e&ad_type=&product_id=&product_partition_id=&test=finalurl_v2&gclid=CjwKCAjw_tTXBRBsEiwArqXyMjgFDqoS4uAo8jbcK67p5R3vACdBCReLQorwfJHv2MZyNeoeUKDOtRoCZR4QAvD_BwE

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Temp
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2 minutes ago, Temp said:

 

That would be ok if Labour was significantly less. I think @Onoff suggested this cable but with backfilling the wall with hardcore it wouldn’t be robust enough.

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To use a "lesser" cable than SWA you would need to mechanically protect it. A plastic duct / conduit would v.likley be crushed by the weight of the backfill etc. Encasing the conduit itself in concrete is more work than I imagine you want to do?

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10 minutes ago, Onoff said:

To use a "lesser" cable than SWA you would need to mechanically protect it. A plastic duct / conduit would v.likley be crushed by the weight of the backfill etc. Encasing the conduit itself in concrete is more work than I imagine you want to do?

Probably :lol:

 

i meant to run 2 lengths of swa under the patio and then be able to use an easier to work on cable on the face of the wall.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Planning on this, a cable run to the external side of each wall. 25mm flexible conduit, with 20mm waste pipe through the wall. Could put cable in before it’s filled.

7E2BE3FF-C077-41E1-8552-1010BCC00931.jpeg

 

 

4165289A-E910-4523-A004-0030B76219EF.jpeg

Edited by daiking
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Definitely put the cable in the conduit before filling trenches if that's possible. Makes things much easier. You could transition to rigid conduit where that's visible as I think it looks better...

 

I need to fix the conduit to the wall one day. Ignore the new grass seed and the SS screws, I need to replace those.

 

IMG_20180611_133154142.thumb.jpg.c3b58305ea9708bb819fdba6c64e877a.jpgIMG_20180611_133210541.thumb.jpg.11c0c9266b89348a4fd11a3c4b450f50.jpg

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45 minutes ago, Temp said:

Definitely put the cable in the conduit before filling trenches if that's possible. Makes things much easier. You could transition to rigid conduit where that's visible as I think it looks better...

 

I need to fix the conduit to the wall one day. Ignore the new grass seed and the SS screws, I need to replace those.

 

IMG_20180611_133154142.thumb.jpg.c3b58305ea9708bb819fdba6c64e877a.jpgIMG_20180611_133210541.thumb.jpg.11c0c9266b89348a4fd11a3c4b450f50.jpg

 

No idea what an electrician will do wall side.

 

17 minutes ago, Onoff said:

If you don't want to risk crushing your ducts around your cables then bed in sand or sifted soil. You can also lay old roof tiles etc over the top of that. 

 

No old tiles here just bricks and bricks and more bricks. What type of cable could be clipped to the wall? UV stable, weather resistant, not SWA?

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12 minutes ago, daiking said:

 

No idea what an electrician will do wall side.

 

 

No old tiles here just bricks and bricks and more bricks. What type of cable could be clipped to the wall? UV stable, weather resistant, not SWA?

 

Sand/dirt then bricks if you like at right angles to the run, widest side down. Better than nothing and it'll get rid of them doing something practical!

 

Swa generally has a UV stabilizer in it.

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1 hour ago, daiking said:

No old tiles here just bricks and bricks and more bricks. What type of cable could be clipped to the wall? UV stable, weather resistant, not SWA?

 

What is the gland on the lights designed for and do they need an earth or are they double insulated?

 

Mine were designed for a (eg one, so cant use light as a junction box) "rubber" cable similar to this....

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p17796

 

So we have SWA in the ground with potted junction boxes (one per light) to T off in the rubber. This rubber cable runs up to the light from the buried SWA. It needs protecting from the strimmer above ground hence the short length of conduit in my photo.

 

If you are protecting all of the underground run with flexible conduit I think you could use that rubber cable for the whole run but it's really a question for the electrician.

 

Don't forget the marker tape.

Edited by Temp
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2 hours ago, Temp said:

 

What is the gland on the lights designed for and do they need an earth or are they double insulated?

 

Mine were designed for a (eg one, so cant use light as a junction box) "rubber" cable similar to this....

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p17796

 

So we have SWA in the ground with potted junction boxes (one per light) to T off in the rubber. This rubber cable runs up to the light from the buried SWA. It needs protecting from the strimmer above ground hence the short length of conduit in my photo.

 

If you are protecting all of the underground run with flexible conduit I think you could use that rubber cable for the whole run but it's really a question for the electrician.

 

Don't forget the marker tape.

 

Sorry, I’m sacking off the brick lights, prick lights more like. Just routing swa to the wall and will then get some other lights, either wall or ground mounted at some point in the future. Probably LV so cable is even less of an issue.

 

marker tape ? Lol, not buying a 500m roll for about 10m under my patio.

 

conduit isn’t to protect the swa just to provide a space for it.

 

 

Edited by daiking
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