Ferdinand Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 @newhome If it only the electrical cert, then print out, put a square of paper over the address, and photograph :-). Or screen shot and use an image editor to draw a rectangle. There are apps out there that will screenshot a full document bigger that the display window. Ferdinand 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 4 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: @newhome If it only the electrical cert, then print out, put a square of paper over the address, and photograph :-). Or screen shot and use an image editor to draw a rectangle. There are apps out there that will screenshot a full document bigger that the display window. Ferdinand Thanks. Bruv has come to the rescue and it going to edit it for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 1 minute ago, newhome said: Thanks. Bruv has come to the rescue and it going to edit it for me. For the record Open Office will edit PDFs; not sure whether it can do one that is that complex. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: I think this statement nails it. I doubt he, or perhaps you, knew that the system ( what you already had fitted ) just needed to be configured properly, and had the means there to do what you wanted by programming. The touchscreen heat miser system clearly is plenty comprehensive enough to do the job, just its the dangerous grey area where plumbing and complex wiring reside........and very few plumbers have the slightest clue about multi-discipline wiring and controls. I make a good few quid off my Gas registered plumbing mates who cant do any complex wiring, particularly old to new conversions. Can you recall which controls were in place before 'his' arrival ? There were no 'controls' as such before his arrival. The room thermostats and the touchscreen heat miser thingy aside. There really didn't seem to be a way of switching it on and off before he came other than switching off the boiler and the UFH pump manually if I really needed it off. Other than that it seemed to be on all the time unless I physically switched it off. So I used to switch the boiler and pump off in the boiler room when I needed to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 10 minutes ago, newhome said: There were no 'controls' as such before his arrival. The room thermostats and the touchscreen heat miser thingy aside. There really didn't seem to be a way of switching it on and off before he came other than switching off the boiler and the UFH pump manually if I really needed it off. Other than that it seemed to be on all the time unless I physically switched it off. So I used to switch the boiler and pump off in the boiler room when I needed to. I think the HM system would have done it TBH, but hypothetical unless actually being able to make it work and show you. Just sounds like a) knowing it's connected right and b) being able to show you how to use it would be the way forward. So simple 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 I found what I think is the spec of the thermal store: 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) Electrical Certificate BH.pdf And here is the electrical test. We had to get another electrician out to address the failures as hubby wasn’t able to do anything by then. Not sure if that’s why the consumer unit thing looks odd? Edited February 21, 2018 by newhome 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 And there are these. Not sure if useful? Plus all the UFH loops that I assume are pretty standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 9 minutes ago, newhome said: Electrical Certificate BH.pdf And here is the electrical test. We had to get another electrician out to address the failures as hubby wasn’t able to do anything by then. Not sure if that’s why the consumer unit thing looks odd? A few observations: I am not sure why no RCD on the smoke alarms was a C2 unless he KNEW the cables were buried in the wall. And C2 for a missing lamp from it's lamp holder, at this point I would be marching him off site....... You have a very high Ze 0f 0.52 ohms, I would be contacting your supplier, The normally accepted maximum for TNC-S is 0.35 ohms. See here https://www.ssepd.co.uk/ForContractors/ To get this corrected, contact your energy supplier who should refer it t the DNO. This won't fix anything other than stop the lights dimming when the boiler is on. Anyway, at the moment I am seeing 2 distribution boards, both feed several things. I assume EVERYTHING is powered all the time, e,g the washing machine can be used any time day or nght? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 2 minutes ago, ProDave said: Anyway, at the moment I am seeing 2 distribution boards, both feed several things. I assume EVERYTHING is powered all the time, e,g the washing machine can be used any time day or nght? The other electrician who came looked at the report and said God he was a fussy fecker but did the remedial work and signed it off. I 'assume' I can use washing machine etc any time of day or night but actually I only ever use any appliance during the day when I'm here. Never leave anything on overnight, just prefer not to, but I think it would work ok if I wanted to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 8 minutes ago, ProDave said: You have a very high Ze 0f 0.52 ohms, I would be contacting your supplier, The normally accepted maximum for TNC-S is 0.35 ohms. See here https://www.ssepd.co.uk/ForContractors/ To get this corrected, contact your energy supplier who should refer it t the DNO. This won't fix anything other than stop the lights dimming when the boiler is on. Is this an important thing or something I can leave? I don't see lights dimming when the boiler is on. There are loads and loads of downlighters everywhere but TBH I tend not to use them much. I use other lighting mostly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 1 hour ago, MikeSharp01 said: Not easy but you could draw a box over it, filled - from the ADOBE COMMENT menu, then save it as a picture then upload the picture. Alternatively I think you can use the box cover and then save it as a non editable PDF but i am not sure you could not then remove the box if you wanted to enough. Alternatively get a post it note to cover it before you scan / photo it. https://www.ilovepdf.com/ convert to word and edit, excellent site 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: turn down all the ROOM / HOUSE stats Most of the rooms are turned off. Will this do (see pic) instead of 'turn down'? As in the frost setting on only. I'm actually here all day tomorrow but I can still turn everything off in the morning as you suggest. Better wear some warm clothing though I am not 100% sure I understand all of your 'what to do next' advice. I will read it all again tomorrow. Head spinning a bit from all of this today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Its fine on frost setting as room stats like that dont typically switch on / off, just up or down. Read through and if your stuck on a particular point just post here and someone will guide you through if I dont see it for any reason. Ask plenty of questions and we can crack it sooner It doesn't matter if your repeating yourself, just ask until your confident enough to push on. Your get out of jail card is simply setting everything back to how you have it now. Take some photos on your phone for reference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 For the testing, please make sure the boiler is on constant, not timed or set to the 3 x 2hour bursts etc so it can have a chance to work properly. The TS needs to be able to call on the boiler for heat and the boiler needs to be on and functioning to provide it on demand. Even a perfect working system won't perform adequately if its starved of heat ( which I think your system possibly has been with the 3 x 2 hr bursts etc ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Re the High Ze thing. That is the suppliers responsibility to correct at their expense. It should not normally exceed 0.35 for the type of supply that you have. The high value of Ze you have is directly responsible for one of the fails on the EICR that they had to get around by changing a circuit breaker. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSharp01 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 11 hours ago, newhome said: Is this an important thing or something I can leave? I don't see lights dimming when the boiler is on. There are loads and loads of downlighters everywhere but TBH I tend not to use them much. I use other lighting mostly. This is a safety thing I think although@ProDave will confirm. You seem to be well protected by the circuit breakers you have as they have built in protection but given that your boiler is now on a different sort of breaker you may want to be sure that if a fault occurs your earth can cope. Dave will put me right if I have that wrong. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 (edited) I just stood in the boiler room with a printout of @Nickfromwales plan of attack. I would quite like to attack the whole thing with a sledgehammer but perhaps that's not wise ...... So this morning I switched off the boiler and pump using the controls installed by 'cock in the cupboard'. I have set every room thermostat to 'frost' so off. I've stood in the room and read through the notes. I am going to label everything up but my observations and bits I didn't understand are: 16 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Silver Pump lower left TS Not 100% sure where this is TBH. 16 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: I assume that either runs off a Hot Water time clock setting, or is operated by a flow switch that senses you opening a tap and fires that particular pump up for the duration the tap is open. I think this is one of the main issues. I don't think there is a hot water clock setting or a flow switch. If I open a tap no hot water arrives unless the UFH pump is switched on. @PeterW said that he thinks he knows what is wrong here in an earlier post. 16 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: The other two green pumps and their corresponding red - topped TMV's are space ( central ) heating flows. eg one ( the upper hotter coil ) could be going to 1st floor heating radiators, so would be set to around 55-65oC, and the other ( the lower cooler coil ) could be going to the UFH manifolds, so set at 35-40oC The green pumps have UP and DOWN on them respectively. Assuming the red topped thingies (there are 4 of them) are those bright red things that say heatguard UFH and assuming the little notch in the metal is where to set the temp they are all set at max (65). There is UFH upstairs as well as downstairs (no radiators anywhere). And there are 4 sets of manifolds covering a quarter of the house each. Assuming the Quenching coil is that thin silver thing coiled round it is leaking slightly. Hardly at all so you don't really notice it but that where all the scale comes from I think. Not a major issue in the great scheme of things! I'm not sweating the small stuff . 16 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Principle of operation ( as advised from technical support ) : You should have a two-channel time-clock for toggling between summer and winter 'mode' which you will have to do manually as required. You may also have another time-clock for DHW production, depending on how its been configured. I can't see any 'clocks' anywhere. If it ain't on their invoice where would they have come from unless included with the TS? I think I'm ok with your instructions but there are a couple of things that I want to clarify using photos so will do so in the next post. I will give it all a whirl when I finish work. Do I need the UFH pump on or off when I do this? Incidently, I can make the TS go cold as quick as you like if I have the UFH pump on without the boiler running. Even if all of the room thermostats are set to 'off' and 'frost' the water disappears out of the store (but where?). That's the issue with the TS really. It doesn't seem to store hot water at all. So I can't have it off for 2 hours and still have hot water available for that period. Boiler and pump has been switched off since 9am so 6 hours. temperature has dropped from 50 to 40 and the room temperature in this room has dropped less than 1 degree from 19 to just over 18. Oh and @ProDave I now know why I can't get those bloody screws out. They are tork screws. So no matter how many phillips screwdrivers I tried they weren't going to work! Who knew there would be so many different types of screws! Despite rummaging through dozens and dozens of screwdrivers and screwdriver bits in the Aladin's cave of shite (aka the garage) I can't find the right size so have ordered yet more bloody screwdrivers from Amazon, due to arrive tomorrow. Edited February 22, 2018 by newhome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Just a thought. If the UFH drains all the heat out od the tank in under 2 hours, then ultimately you want to end up with the boiler AND the UFH only operating when it is on the cheap rate. Tht should leave the store full of hot water for the taps (when you sort out how to get that working) and on the asumption the house is well enough insulated that you won't notice the heating being off for up to 2 hours. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 9 minutes ago, ProDave said: Just a thought. If the UFH drains all the heat out od the tank in under 2 hours, then ultimately you want to end up with the boiler AND the UFH only operating when it is on the cheap rate. Tht should leave the store full of hot water for the taps (when you sort out how to get that working) and on the asumption the house is well enough insulated that you won't notice the heating being off for up to 2 hours. I think that was sort of the idea with the controllers that guy put in. Not so much to coincide with the cheap rate, but to allow me to control the off and on to ensure that I had some chance of having hot water when needed. If there was a separate pump that switched on for the taps that would be half the battle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Couple of things to clarify please: What are these? I had to take 3 photos of the top thing as it was difficult to reach. And what’s the black thing in the 4th photo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Black thing is a pump. Is there a serial / part number on the other bit you can read and post. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Black thing is a pump. Is there a serial / part number on the other bit you can read and post. It's on the label says Wilo Star Z - 15. Part number 4110915/09w 39 Edited February 22, 2018 by newhome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Actually Google is my friend . Says it's a solar hot water circulating pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Is there any chance that things have scaled up, do you have a proper water softener? And is there a chance that water is thermo-syphoning through the solar system and losing heat though that? I am thoroughly enjoying this thread and looking forward to a positive conclusion later. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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