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My Nightmare Heating System


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I found the original quote from solar guy. I didn’t know he’d quoted for the TS too originally. Terry sourced it from DPS direct in the end by the looks of things. The installation quote was interesting as it was 2k for installing the TS too whereas he took the entire grant money just for installing the solar kit later on. Assume the solar fluid is what he used when he did install it though and that it’s the ‘normal’ stuff used?

 

 

 

 

3BDC4933-D41F-4087-853F-733559215316.jpeg

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5 hours ago, ProDave said:

One thing I noticed in the picture of the HM box is the "boiler demand" is not connected.  The boiler demand would in this case normally turn on a circulating pump and possibly open a motorised valve to allow heat to go from the tank tot he UFH.

 

It’s using the UFH Pump connection in a sort of round robin approach by the looks of it. @Nickfromwales and me were discussing it this morning - that’s only used when you have a direct connection for the boiler to fire rather than the TS... 

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Just for info this wonderful thread is now at 32% of the length (pages) and at 29% of the number of replies of the 'other thread'. It has been going 4 days approx - that means, at current rate, it will overtake the other thread on the 6th-7th March Unless we fix it FIRST. @Nickfromwales what is the next move, or is that coming in your next missive!

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TBH I would just leave the solar as it is currently as it needs a proper flush and then refilling along with the crud draining out of it ... it’s not a 10 minute job ..! 

 

What is useful though is you’ve got the filling loops and kit to refill it when the time comes (or the Welshman and his sidekick...)

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5 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Just for info this wonderful thread is now at 32% of the length (pages) and at 29% of the number of replies of the 'other thread'. It has been going 4 days approx - that means, at current rate, it will overtake the other thread on the 6th-7th March Unless we fix it FIRST. @Nickfromwales what is the next move, or is that coming in your next missive!

 

I'm just going to recap on how this thread started :D

 

Quote

@Nickfromwales Can you post some pics of what you have and garnish with any other info you know about what system has been fitted and ill have a go at deciphering it. Once deciphered I can do a plan for you and then you can get a local to come in to carry out the work. Add as much info as you can, sounds straightforward enough tbh.

 

 

@Nickfromwales Still sounding straightforward? :)

 

 

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1 minute ago, Simplysimon said:

 

sorry @Nickfromwales, i meant the murrayfield game, it's been a long 10yrs, wouldn't rub it in unless it's 'the auld enemy'B|

 

Not quite so good for those of us English living / working in Scotland tho! :/ Bollox, that settles it, I'm working from home on Monday (and Tuesday, and Wednesday ........ :)). 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Seems the system needs a periodic flush. A bit about it here:

 

https://www.thegreenlivingforum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=105560

 

Are you up for having a go if someone here can advise how?

 

If the system doesn't leak it shouldn't need any periodic flushing. My system with twice as many panels has been running for getting on for 8 years and has only needed refilling when I've modified it and never been flushed.

 

(25kWhr harvested today!)

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4 minutes ago, billt said:

If the system doesn't leak it shouldn't need any periodic flushing. My system with twice as many panels has been running for getting on for 8 years and has only needed refilling when I've modified it and never been flushed.

 

 

Mine was switched off for eons tho. Not sure if that makes a difference. 

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10 minutes ago, billt said:

 

If the system doesn't leak it shouldn't need any periodic flushing. My system with twice as many panels has been running for getting on for 8 years and has only needed refilling when I've modified it and never been flushed.

 

(25kWhr harvested today!)

 

Do they airlock? That Hozelock rig must be there for a reason!

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Possibly. If it has been stagnating for ages the anti-freeze will have deteriorated. For all I know it could have turned to jelly.

 

In your case it's probably worth flushing it out and putting new glycol in, when you've found out why it's not working.

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2 hours ago, MikeSharp01 said:

@Nickfromwales what is the next move, or is that coming in your next missive!

Ah, the million dollar question. 

A summary is difficult as there is probably a bit more there thats "Donald Ducked" than we know about. For one, a pump thats close to 100oC is obviously just burning / burnt out and needs changing, and given locality, the sensible thing to do would be to change all the pumps and their isolation valves whilst the system is drained. 

The alterations as per 'chapter two' will need implementing, but after speaking with @PeterW earlier today, a new PHE is not mega bucks, even for for a whopper. I still maintain that if the manufacturer says its ok that we hook the boiler up direct to the TS, so doing away with the PHE, PHE pump, and the need to pressurise the boiler periodically. As the boiler is a 'system' boiler, not a 'heat only' boiler, it has an integral pump so the flow to / from the boiler / TS is sorted. Lets simplify where we can. 

@PeterW seems to be on the HM system like a tramp on a kebab and reckons it can be made to work with whats there, so thats just down to being there with a multi-meter and a fresh brain.

TS / boiler/ time-clocks / associated control wiring just needs redoing, fresh, from scratch. Refitting what kit is already there should suffice. Adding the 2x 2-port zone valves to the summer / winter boiler return would still be my chosen route. 

Add a 2-port Zone valve to the UFH flow to stave off convection heat loss when the heating isn't being used. That should stop the TS going cool during the 2-hour no-E2000 times, and any other time the space heating isn't required. That would also provide the heating 'kill' that I earlier referred to. 

Adding a pump and blending valve to each manifold is a no brainer, hopefully theres 230v at each manifold wiring centre. 

Fitting of a large magnetic filter on the boiler return ( as low as it could go ) would be of benefit, but id probably put one on the UFH flow too to cover what won't get picked up by the boiler filter. 

The only remaining TMV should be the DHW one, so prob change that too for the sake of £50. Other TMV's would be the new ones at each manifold. 

Flush and chemical treatment as required.  

Flush the ST with that 6.5bar mains and fill it back up with antifreeze solution and get the bugger working again. 

 

Program the heating controls accordingly and demonstrate. 

Piece of cake. 

 

Thats the remit for the works required, plus whatever comes out of the wood ( pipe ) work when your there. 

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6 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Do they airlock? That Hozelock rig must be there for a reason!

The hozelock rig is usually supplied with the solar system as you never top up via cold mains through a filling loop. Instead you make up the solution, pour it into that bottle, connect to the fill point ( which has a non-return valve so juice can only go in ), and then you pump away until the pressure is topped back up accordingly. 

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23 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Add a 2-port Zone valve to the UFH flow to stave off convection heat loss when the heating isn't being used.

 

Get one with a microswitch and we can put the pump through it. Kinder to the UH controllers too. 

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1 hour ago, PeterW said:

TBH I would just leave the solar as it is currently as it needs a proper flush and then refilling along with the crud draining out of it ... it’s not a 10 minute job ..! 

 

What is useful though is you’ve got the filling loops and kit to refill it when the time comes (or the Welshman and his sidekick...)

+1

 

If its been stagnating it would be silly not to change the fluid. 

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55 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

-Add a 2-port Zone valve to the UFH flow to stave off convection heat loss when the heating isn't being used. That should stop the TS going cool during the 2-hour no-E2000 times, and any other time the space heating isn't required. That would also provide the heating 'kill' that I earlier referred to. 

 

Would a non return valve work on the UFH flow instead of a 2-port zone valve?

 

Thinking "simpler".....

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