Jump to content

Cost of floor tiling


Vel810

Recommended Posts

You may well get a good price if you buy the materials with the tiles, especially if buying from an independent. If so, talk to your tiler about what to get.

 

Generally the powdered type that binds chemically rather than the premixed stuff in a bucket is the better option.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I charge £22 per mtr for floors 30 mtrs and over £4 for laying decoupling mat Groute and adhesive at cost Flexible adhesive 

£8.50 20kg Decoupling  mat £6 per mtr suply 

 

for small areas bathrooms etc 

I normally allow £200 per day

 

All plus vat Unless zero rated

 

Most happy custermers will be happy to help there tiler out and show off the lovely new bathroom off so make sure that you have a look at a previous job

There are some really poor tilers out there 

And not always cheaper 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, nod said:

I charge £22 per mtr for floors 30 mtrs and over £4 for laying decoupling mat Groute and adhesive at cost Flexible adhesive 

£8.50 20kg Decoupling  mat £6 per mtr suply 

 

for small areas bathrooms etc 

I normally allow £200 per day

 

All plus vat Unless zero rated

 

Most happy custermers will be happy to help there tiler out and show off the lovely new bathroom

of So make sure that you have a look at a previous job

There are some really poor toilets out there 

Not always cheaper 

I’d hold back on buying the tiles 

My wife has chosen Italian plank tiles at 61 per mtr From a supplier that I’ve not dealt with 

He said that he will discount by 15% For a 150 mtrs 

I nearly choked on my tea when she told me 

I would exspect to get them for 30 per mtr 

and save £5 per metre on adhesive 

and the same on matting 

 

so so at these rates your tiling labour would be free 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not quite the answer you want (as I am doing my own tiling) but I have just bought 7 square metres of porcelain tiles, adhesive and grout. Total cost of materials £222   The scary thing being the adhesive cost more than the tiles!!!!!

 

I will have spent 4 half days doing the tiling, so lets say 2 man days, the labour would cost more than the materials if I had to pay for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We paid £200 / day labour only for all our tiling. Approx 3 days per bathroom, porcelain tiles, including floors and part walls (shower, sink, toilet, bath). About 20m2 of tiling per bathroom, it involved some more complex corners, joints, holes etc as well as trims.

 

The labour was cheaper than materials. Our local indy tiler gave great advise, customer service (we walked away with a boot full of samples) and supplied all tiles, grouts, adhesives, trims, tanking, drills at a good discount. Don't underestimate the cost of the bits - you can easily double the tile cost by the time you add the rest in.

 

Prices on tiles can be crazy, and £61 seems very high, we compared a few on site and settled on a £26 one (after discount). Definitely man-made but it has all the lovely texture and randomness you can expect of natural stone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ProDave said:

Not quite the answer you want (as I am doing my own tiling) but I have just bought 7 square metres of porcelain tiles, adhesive and grout. Total cost of materials £222   The scary thing being the adhesive cost more than the tiles!!!!!

 

I will have spent 4 half days doing the tiling, so lets say 2 man days, the labour would cost more than the materials if I had to pay for it.

Tile prices have gone through the roof Dave

Some of the Turkish and Chinese are reasonable 

But I wouldn’t use them with UFH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, nod said:

Tile prices have gone through the roof Dave

Some of the Turkish and Chinese are reasonable 

But I wouldn’t use them with UFH

 

Out of interest, what exactly is the issue with UFH?

 

I hear this a lot about flooring, and I'm not at all sure why.  UFH will rarely, if every, make the floor warmer than around 25 to 26 deg C, as even 26 deg C is about 64 W/m², which is a fair bit of heat into a room.   I've found that the tiles in our hall, where the sun shines through the glazing, reach far higher temperatures, as high as 40 deg C on one occasion when I measured it.  Similarly, we have a section of bamboo flooring adjacent to our West facing French windows, that reaches similar high temperatures when the sun shines on it - so hot as to be uncomfortable to walk on with bare feet (there's now a rug there to ease this!).

 

I know virtually nothing about flooring (other than having laid it, at some cost to my knees and back!), but have always been a bit puzzled by concerns about UFH, when it seems that any section of floor that is exposed to bright sun could get a great deal hotter than it would from the  UFH.  I have wondered if there was something else causing these concerns, really just because I can't see the logic behind them, but I could easily have missed something.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JSHarris said:

 

Out of interest, what exactly is the issue with UFH?

 

I hear this a lot about flooring, and I'm not at all sure why.  UFH will rarely, if every, make the floor warmer than around 25 to 26 deg C, as even 26 deg C is about 64 W/m², which is a fair bit of heat into a room.   I've found that the tiles in our hall, where the sun shines through the glazing, reach far higher temperatures, as high as 40 deg C on one occasion when I measured it.  Similarly, we have a section of bamboo flooring adjacent to our West facing French windows, that reaches similar high temperatures when the sun shines on it - so hot as to be uncomfortable to walk on with bare feet (there's now a rug there to ease this!).

 

I know virtually nothing about flooring (other than having laid it, at some cost to my knees and back!), but have always been a bit puzzled by concerns about UFH, when it seems that any section of floor that is exposed to bright sun could get a great deal hotter than it would from the  UFH.  I have wondered if there was something else causing these concerns, really just because I can't see the logic behind them, but I could easily have missed something.

 

I stoped short at saying Chinese and Turkish tiles are Crap

But they are not fired for as long and quite brittle Very prone to chipping Which wouldn’t be an issue in bathrooms

But I wouldn’t put them on a downstairs floor 

By far the best are Italian Spanish Portuguese In that order 

Nearly always Italian or Spanish on The commercial jobs I do

 

I wouldn’t put tiles onto a heated screed without matting But three years back we were converting a barn for the M.D. of a large company that we do a lot of for

He needed to be in by Christmas

Couldnt get his bio boiler commissioned Said go ahead and tile the 153 mtr floor No time to bother with decoupling matting 

Three years on it looks just like the

 day it was done He’s time poor and cash rich and can easily afford to have the lot roped up and done again

So there’s no telling 

 

If I took a chance and didn’t mat mine Which would save me about a thousand I guarantee mine would crack or lift 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, that's useful to know. 

 

Our travertine is bonded down with normal standard set flexible tile adhesive, straight to a concrete slab with UFH in it.  The bamboo is similar, I bonded that down to the primed slab with some very expensive Sika adhesive.  Both seem to be fine, with no signs of any problems at all after a couple of years.  Our floor rarely gets warmer than 22 deg C from the UFH, though, except for the bits that catch the sun that can get uncomfortably hot in summer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At out last house I "broke all the rules in the book"  Floor tiles (mixture of slate and ceramic) glued directly to P5 chipboard with a "flexible tile adhesive" and UFH.

 

14 years on, all is still perfect.

 

Present bathrooms that I am tiling are tanked with the Impey Water guard membrane which is a decoupler.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, ProDave said:

At out last house I "broke all the rules in the book"  Floor tiles (mixture of slate and ceramic) glued directly to P5 chipboard with a "flexible tile adhesive" and UFH.

 

14 years on, all is still perfect.

 

Present bathrooms that I am tiling are tanked with the Impey Water guard membrane which is a decoupler.

When first started tiling 

there was no flexible adhesives 

We would screed in the morning

and go on the screed in the afternoon with board and tile straight onto the screed Set like iron

The first time I used decoupling matting was about eight years ago

Now most jobs I price spec it as standard  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...