Jump to content

Tiling...many questions


Onoff

Recommended Posts

 ice cubes make good sealer bead shaping tool--make your own shape 

used to use them for  sealing on doorskin replacement--don,t stick to anything 

loads of tile levelling systems 

example 

https://www.vitrex.co.uk/products/lash-tile-levelling-system/

 

loads of similar systems --

u tube even has videos  comparing different systems

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to run a bead of sealant where the wall tiles come down and meet the floor.

 

20190131_180656

 

The wall tiles sit nominally 1mm off of the floor tiles and the gap has been rammed with grout.

 

First step will be a line of clear CT1 at that junction. When set I'll apply a bead of silicone, probably grey, but how to do this neatly?

 

How big for a start should the bead be, 5mm? More?

 

A rough plan was to say mask 1/4" from the floor and the wall, silicone it, tool the excess off then peel the tape off.

 

Sound like a plan?

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A problem.....

 

The right hand grout joint of the mitre is quite wide. I've got cracks in there as shown below. I half worried about this as I've ply behind the mitre. I figure it'll expand / contract at a different rate to the wings either side where there's no ply. The mitre joints btw were taped and tanked.

 

20190208_235924

 

20190208_235838

 

20190208_235900

 

20190208_235911

 

Do I re grout, CT1, white silicone?

 

Cheers

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know we had this discussion before, but where there might be movement e.g. between a brick and a stud wall etc I miss out the grout and fill with the appropriate colour ct1.

I need the job to last at least 5-10 years.

I know the colour of the CT1 grey has already been derided, but this is a job I just did.

Dip your finger in solvent (or in my case turps) instead of washing up liquid and it stops it sticking to your fingers.

The problem I have encountered with clear (and whit) ct1 is it seems to go yellow quickly.

 

In the meantime I suggest 

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pro-grout-rake-cutter/17903?tc=AT3&ds_kid=92700022888056172&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244066&ds_rl=1248184&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuoWn5bSu4AIVxR-GCh33nQwxEAQYASABEgLi6fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

20190209_100304.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Setting up for a hopefully neat silicone bead where wall meets floor. Tried masking to a 7/8mm tile first but figured that'll look too wide across the "flat":

 

20190209_105336

 

Very impressed with Frog tape in comparison to ordinary masking tape.

 

Re did with a 5mm pack.

 

20190209_114613

 

20190209_114622

 

I'll now run a very small bead of clear CT1 along the joint keeping it clear of the tape. When dry I'll go over with silicone, probably Mapei grey depending on how it looks.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, ProDave said:

 

That looks good. With hindsight etc!

 

Going to persevere with this perimeter wall/floor joint as I am and see what it looks like. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No taping on the above, just wiped where I veered off course.

 

When you use tape you generally get a ridge when you pull the tape off which you either have to smooth back (in which case why bother with the tape) or the ridge is where water and therefore mould collect.

 

As you're not doing it every day, but quite a bit to seal you might be better of using a fugi tool. Have a look at you tube for some videos, I've not tried it with ct1 as it's so bloody sticky, but it makes trowelling silicone sealant easy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CT1 is a pain to get a neat finish with and it discolours. If you use masking tape you have to have a bead a fair bit narrower than the tape gap. Just use the tape to stop the smearing being too excessive.

 

It looks a lot of silicone in there. Do you have a pic of it after tooling?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Well that came out like crap after trying to tool it. Wiped it all off in the end.

 

 

That looks like my attempts! Did you use the whole tube? :D Or did you use shaving foam by accident ...? ;)

 

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you have not cut the nozzle correctly --far too big and wrong shape .thats the  problem 

try cutting some of your other spare nozzles into different shapes and much smaller -try them on waste bit of board --no tape --just get the bead right size before wasting anymore on the real job-

tape should not be sealed over by choice -its just going to give hard thick  edge of sealer when you remove it.

its a safety edge so you can smear it in right shape and excess goes on to  tape,

but there should be no measurable thickness on tape right close to sealer ,so when removed you don,t end up with an edge 

shape should have finished before getting to tape ideally .

If you want to keep working it ,wet your finger or use ice cube like i said before,if you don,t it will skin too quick +pull 

Edited by scottishjohn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Well that came out like crap after trying to tool it. Wiped it all off in the end.

 

2019-02-09_02-31-28

 

What type of gun have you got? Looks like you've been pumping a lot which would suggest a cheap one to me. Try moving faster ( I know it's easy for me to say) but it will leave you with less ripples amd generally give you less excess to deal with. Mastiking is a bitch at the best of times ( behind taps are the worst). You need to work quick and tool it as soon as possible. Try again but maybe start on a nice short straight run, not around a curved toilet ?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Construction Channel said:

What type of gun have you got? Looks like you've been pumping a lot which would suggest a cheap one to me. Try moving faster ( I know it's easy for me to say) but it will leave you with less ripples amd generally give you less excess to deal with. Mastiking is a bitch at the best of times ( behind taps are the worst). You need to work quick and tool it as soon as possible. Try again but maybe start on a nice short straight run, not around a curved toilet ?

 

Lidl’s finest Parkside gun. Pretty good imo...I'm the problem!

 

This Mapei stuff skins up real fast. Doesn't help titivating over it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

I used to use masking tape and a flat blade screwdriver until I got a Cramer Fugi 5 piece kit. Although it's still tricky to use if I'm trying to do a basin behind a tap.

 

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/cramer-fugi-applicator-kit-5-piece-711919

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBT3kvbocbc

 

These are what I have. 

 

2019-02-09_05-02-28

 

Even these in the hands of someone competent should do the job I'm sure.

 

As soon as the grey is dry I'll rip it out and try again taking on board all the above.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...