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Tiling...many questions


Onoff

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10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

The reason one side cuts better than the other is the back of the blade cuts on the upstroke. You'll typically be pulling or pushing so will reflect which side has the upcutting edge against it. Whichever that is gets shelled, not by the initial down cut but by the resulting upcut off the arse end of the blade. Gets on my wick TBH but you soon learn to engineer how you lean on the machine during use to change the rough edge from the 'keeper' to the offcut. 

 

Ta. I was hoping to use both halves of the same cut tile tbh. so a "half" would be either side of the fall line.

 

To minimise chipping is there any merit in covering the cut line in masking tape and marking / cutting through that?

 

Too hot for this. SWMBO needs to hurry back from Bluewater so I get get on the Cobra. Only holding off as her car's not been well. :(

 

Any

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Beer o'clock! ?

 

IF I cut the actual tiles with the wet cutter I think I'll need to put some "pegs" in where the almonds are (yes I ate them afterwards). 

 

 

 

 

Easier to cut a piece of tile or timber to fit where your bottom rail is at the right angle as a tile will rotate on the pegs. Also easier to adjust as if you drill a hole in wrong place by 2mm you can’t re-drill it easily. Also, a long wedge will give the tile something to push against. 

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30 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Draw a line, eat the bastard nuts and chuck two more down your kegs. You'll need to steer the blade as you cut, as the radial saw still wanders. 

 

:o I never realised the blade wanders on them, thought it cut dead true & straight!

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Just now, Onoff said:

 

:o I never realised the blade wanders on them, thought it cut dead true & straight!

To most people it doesn't wander, but its us were talking about. A bit of wander will show after the test cuts. Either that or your freeby cutter pisses over my £350 Rubi. 

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32 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Draw a line, eat the bastard nuts and chuck two more down your kegs. You'll need to steer the blade as you cut, as the radial saw still wanders. 

 

Only just got this after reading twice! :) "Grow a pair!" I think is the underlying message :)

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Yup. Grabbing hold of the tile and feeding it into the blade 'manually' is the kiddy. Leaving it down to the fence when its a vibrating tile chewing machine is a bit open to skew, but as I said, the proof is in the pudding. 

Your test tiles were ceramic yea? Are the floor tiles same or porcelain? 

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Test tiles are ceramic. Interesting how two "good" cut edges mate up:

 

20180715_202049

 

Whereas the not so good edges, these are the other halves of the first two above:

 

20180715_202200

 

And the actual floor tiles are also ceramic (cheap seats here). This corner's already chipped:

 

20180715_202649

 

 

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9 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Yup. Grabbing hold of the tile and feeding it into the blade 'manually' is the kiddy. Leaving it down to the fence when its a vibrating tile chewing machine is a bit open to skew, but as I said, the proof is in the pudding. 

 

 

What type of wet tile cutter is considered "the best", radial arm like this where you bring the blade into the tile or table saw type? Can't help thinking the latter myself as it perhaps allows more control as you push the tile into the blade. You can also see the cut line better maybe?

 

Cheers.

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You will see a table saw “move” the tile across as it goes if the head is not perfectly aligned to the rail. Clamping a guide bar to the edge of the table works for small or thin cuts but not for wider ones. 

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20 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Grabbing this blade to see if any better:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p56654

What you should notice is the new blade will have a square edge to it, and the one youve got has gone rounded edge. The square edge cuts a heck of a lot better so you should see a big improvement. Cut the floor tiles first so you get the best part of the blade life spent on the most important cuts. 

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22 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

The reason one side cuts better than the other is the back of the blade cuts on the upstroke. You'll typically be pulling or pushing so will reflect which side has the upcutting edge against it. Whichever that is gets shelled, not by the initial down cut but by the resulting upcut off the arse end of the blade. Gets on my wick TBH but you soon learn to engineer how you lean on the machine during use to change the rough edge from the 'keeper' to the offcut. 

 

So the reason one side chips more is that the blade isn't exactly perpendicular to the bed? As in one side of the cut's up and the other down?

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No you will naturally pull the tile to one side - that will be the "clean" side as the back of the blade coming back up won't hit the edge of the glaze. you may also find you don't get chipping all the way down as the back edge never passes the end of the cut unless you pull all the way through.

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Getting a feel for this with the new Atlas/Norton diamond blade:

 

20180716_210957

 

20180716_211019

 

Something I've noted is that the two halves of the fence are slightly off to one another. Needs the bolts loosening and adjusting against a straight edge.

 

New blade doesn't sound any different to me really. 

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