Barney12 Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Must try this weekend to finish getting this MDPE new main in and do away with all the temporary fixes along the run. Weekends of late.....well haven't really had them due to other issues. So, trench dug. Everything I've read says to line the base of the trench with "sand". Should that be soft/ sharp or even ballast. I'm guessing soft. No problem ordering in a couple of three jumbo bags. In the very flinty ground I have is soft sand "enough"? I'm still tempted to just order a length of blue duct and forget the sand. I could then just backfill without worrying too much about damaging the pipe. Would it negate the need for sand? Cost for a roll of duct vs the sand, there can't be much in it! Any thoughts? Our MDPE water main (installed by the water board) is encased in a soft sand. I'd say 200mm below and a good 300mm sides and top. Our ground is very rough. When we've done the additional runs to the outbuildings we opted for simply putting it in twin wall ducts. Cheaper and quicker! Edited September 29, 2016 by Barney12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 For better or worse this is coming tomorrow: http://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/flexible-underground-ducting/blue-flexi-duct-x-50m-coil/63mm/ Didn't go for the twin wall. Also ordered a roll in green for the CCTV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 28 minutes ago, Onoff said: For better or worse this is coming tomorrow: http://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/flexible-underground-ducting/blue-flexi-duct-x-50m-coil/63mm/ Didn't go for the twin wall. Also ordered a roll in green for the CCTV. I'm sure that will be fine. We only went twin wall as most of our ground is rocks and boulders! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 6 hours ago, Barney12 said: I'm sure that will be fine. We only went twin wall as most of our ground is rocks and boulders! So what happens if you are on sand..?? Do you have to buy sand to back fill or can you just chuck the pipes in the trench ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 We have stony soil here (admittedly mostly rounded glacial pebbles and boulders) and it is normal just to bury mdpe pipe direct in the ground without even any sand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 We've got clay and flints.....lots and lots of flints! Taking this thread off track a bit but the wife's cousin sadly died a short while back (early 50's) following a short but nasty illness. A keen amateur geologist, painter, model maker, photographer and much more besides. We've "inherited" his flint collection. He did have a fantastic geology website but I guess as it's not been maintained since he got ill it's been taken down. Anyway we've got about 10 crates of flints and they were marked "axe heads", "trilobites" etc. They would have been dumped otherwise. Each flint he personally picked up. Must have had a real keen eye. Knowing now that there's something on each of them we spent ages turning each one over to find what he did, fossilised leaves, trilobites etc. The plan is to incorporate them in feature flint panels within our gate pillars is his memory. Now as to his art.....not everyone's cup of tea I appreciate but here's a taste (he did other styles): https://flic.kr/s/aHskbJqL1N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 The art is tough to handle. With my dad's multi decades of art ... mainly hundreds of pictures and sketches ... we ended up giving pieces to all his friends, keeping a couple of each type, and disposing of the rest. Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Never mind the Flint get that art up on your wall 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 15 minutes ago, Oz07 said: Never mind the Flint get that art up on your wall Not sure what's happened with the originals.....the missus said some were pretty large canvasses and they were being CUT and ROLLED up. Can't see that being good for an oil painting tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 2 hours ago, Oz07 said: Never mind the Flint get that art up on your wall It's not exactly easy to live with, though :-) Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 4 hours ago, Ferdinand said: It's not exactly easy to live with, though :-) Ferdinand "Mummy, what's that lady doing?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) Back on topic..... Not sure where to connect the new 25mm MDPE pipe to as I've a couple of options: The site of operations! Incoming mains comes in from the road (top of the picture). Off to the house, bottom of the picture via the old iron pipe. The white plastic housing is where another meter WAS but now just has a stop cock in it's place. Handy for isolating without going outside the boundary fence. Unscrewing the joint to the iron and swinging it up I can't seem to remove this fitting on the MDPE that I'm holding. I can push it on a bit then pull it back as the video shows but it won't come off. It has teeth I'm sure. Is there a knack for getting this off? I was going to connect the new MDPE to it at this point: When swung down the joint I'm holding is nom 600mm down. The iron pipe then goes off deeper which is how far we've dug the trench. I'm thinking maybe though I could connect the new MDPE direct to the stopcock. That is approx 300mm down. I could insulate the pipe as I'm putting it anyway in 63mm blue duct. It would save on 5 joints in the MDPE: Edited October 1, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Go direct onto the stopcock, don't bother insulating it as at 300mm down you need a couple of weeks of -10c to get that far with permafrost ! Just push it down to the right level as soon as practical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 3 hours ago, PeterW said: Go direct onto the stopcock, don't bother insulating it as at 300mm down you need a couple of weeks of -10c to get that far with permafrost ! Just push it down to the right level as soon as practical. Ta. The connection onto the stop cock came undone a treat. All in good nick so will re-use. Duct laid in half the trench with some excess. Also brought under and up through the hole drilled in the footings. I went with a rolled bit of galv mesh to protect the duct within the suspended floor. Hopefully I won't need to get there again until I take the hall and adjacent bedroom floor up and make back into one room with en suite. One day it will all be a distant memory! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) One end on and neat! Need to make some sort of an enclosure around this for easy acess / digging if I need to get to it later. Thinking a cut down blue barrel? The one pita is that between the above isolator and the stop cock / meter point at the roadside it's still the old iron pipe - about 10' or so. The oddity is that that's supposedly the water companies responsibility as we originally had the meter in the white tube above. Sod's Law it'll leak there and I'll have to get them in! Cue their argument it's after their meter so it's mine! Edited October 2, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 So, inside now, debating a 22/22/15 compression T with the drain valve in as opposed to a solder ring fitting. Thinking it'll be easier when I come to redo the mains throughout in 22mm: ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 If there's any chance you have to undo it to make alterations I would go compression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 6 minutes ago, ProDave said: If there's any chance you have to undo it to make alterations I would go compression. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Compression it is then. Just waiting for the moaning to start ref the visuals on the PRV etc! Committed the cardinal sin earlier and LOST the draw cord! The vacuum and plastic bag trick sorted it though. Duct now all in and covered with a bit of sharp sand / ballast where I ran out: A pig getting a 1m length of lagging over the MDPE and down the duct as there's a bend. Goes in about 750mm which will have to do. Was going to push it in a couple of inches into the duct and foam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Dug up a lead main at about 400mm in the week. Sure insulation down to 750 be ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Purging the 25mm pipe...a thought... At the mo the excess is coiled up as shown above. I was thinking to first cut it long enough to poke out of the WC window. If I then turn on the stop cock at the gate it should clean out the pipe? I can then cut back further and fit everything inc the PRV which shouldn't get contaminated by any crud in the pipe. Saying that I've been super careful about leaving the yellow caps on the MDPE until the last minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 (edited) A flaw in the plan maybe! The tee off to the outside tap, put before the PRV to allow full mains pressure, is proposed to also feed the downstairs WC and cold to the basin there. Do I really want them at full, unadulterated mains pressure which is circa 9 bar? Edited October 3, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Just come off the DOC tee and put a 15mm tee in to take the DOC and then dropping down to pick up the cloak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 And in inside stop valve to turn off the outside tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 2 hours ago, ProDave said: 2 hours ago, ProDave said: And in inside stop valve to turn off the outside tap. I can't see her not wanting this lot boxed in! Wonder if its worth chucking in that spare Geberit wall frame and getting a wall hung WC. Working round this one I'm having to virtually hug it, and you realise how often kids "miss"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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