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Passing the Air Test


Fredd

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6 minutes ago, Fredd said:

i dont think you understated.

 

only the very bottom of all the walls and studs are foamed to seal them. We dont use 435 cans foaming the entire walls haha!

 

The tops of the boards are open to roof space in bungalow so need to be sealed. No drama.

 

once plastered and skirted you would not be able to tell if it was or wasnt. it just passes the test.

What you seem to be describing here is a plasterboard tent.  If external air can get past the insulation and onto the back of the plasterboard, you have, in effect, not insulated at all.

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9 minutes ago, Fredd said:

 

 

What you see on tv is when they have already skirted the walls so now they cant do a permanent job and foam, they have to tape - test - remove tape. 

 

To describe using expanding foam as a permanent solution is mind boggling. Why not scud the bare block walls to seal them up. Will save a major amount of heat over the lifetime of a build for a few hrs work with a couple of bags of cement and sand mixed.

How much diligence do you enforce with your brickies with regards the proper fitting of cavity wall insulation.

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15 minutes ago, Fredd said:

 

i dont think you understated.

 

only the very bottom of all the walls and studs are foamed to seal them. We dont use 435 cans foaming the entire walls haha!

 

The tops of the boards are open to roof space in bungalow so need to be sealed. No drama.

 

once plastered and skirted you would not be able to tell if it was or wasnt. it just passes the test.

 

What you see on tv is when they have already skirted the walls so now they cant do a permanent job and foam, they have to tape - test - remove tape. 

 

maybe I don't but I am not an idiot and I am building a bungalow and we did not fill gaps at the top or round the skirtings with foam. Our 'shell' ...timber framed of course....is an airtight box so why would I need foam. If I hadnt covered my walls with plasterboard and skim I would still have been airtight.

 

I think maybe you don't understand how to build a good quality airtight house, perhaps you should look at how the people on here build their houses there may be lessons to be learnt. Reading your posts makes me very glad that I have been through 2 years of hard work and stress to get a good quality house and not a cheap spec build sold on at big profit that I would have to spend years and £££'s bringing up to a decent standard.

 

I might add that our previous house build 30 years ago whilst not up to current energy standards of course was a good quality solid build and we didnt resort to bunging foam in here and there we built it right at the start.

 

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I'm not sure that Fredd is a builder at all.  I reckon he's a carpenter because he seems to be chippy as hell with some sort of deep set grudge against those who want a home built to a better standard than those he has a hand in.  Well balanced, though, with one chip on each shoulder.

 

What's the point of banging on about first time buyers and what they can afford on a self build forum?  It really isn't relevant to much of what is discussed or has questions asked about here.  Has a self builder down the pub taken the *^ss out of him so he now feels the need to troll a self build forum in retribution?  Either way, this isn't a good place for him to try and inflate his ego or shrink his inferiority complex.  Time to move on, bored with pointless contributions now.

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1 hour ago, lizzie said:

Why on earth would you use that awful foam on your plasterboarded walls?

 

If you need to do that must be a really shoddy build!

It’s true there is very little you can do about it when buying a mass produced home 

If the tester give the builder a hard time They will simply use another company

But there is plenty that we can all do Making it clear to your plastering contracted that you exspect solid band of adhesive to all perimeters including window and around all switches and sockets reveals and under cils 

its very easy to check afterwards

Any decent contractor won’t have a problem taking a few photos

Or in the case of timber frame a thin bead of gyproc silicon on the perimeter and around sockets works well

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It’s barmy sometimes you see them going round all the skirtings with the blue foam Then it’s air tested

Followibg day the carpet fitter pulls it all out to get his carpets down Resulting in a draft house that’s scraped through an air test 

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