Jump to content

Should I make building control and for what application?


legepe

Recommended Posts

11 minutes ago, Roger440 said:

 

Just an "extensive" repair! But ts still a repair if it goes back the same.

 

Otherwise, where does it stop? If you had one rotton joist to do, still notifiable?

got to compare apples with apples ! that building is falling apart and rotten wherever you look :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just going to say it out loud, its really easy to rip the siht out of a place but can be  very expensive  and very time consuming to rebuild it to even basic passable levels.

 

I dont know your story but i think you need to take a step back and take stock as this looks like a whole massive can of trouble. 

 

As a teenager i brought my first 1975 landrover for £500, it looked great, but good quality aluminium body panels look good for a very long time, it had no MOT i was just stary eyed and over enthusiastic, it was not until i took it round to my best mates dad who was a really good agricultural Machanic that the truth was laid out in simple facts. It was a total and utter wreck and the best thing i could  do was walk away. But that was not an option i wanted to take and spent the next two years rebuilding it....... i learnt a lot and that experience has got me out of a lot of trouble over my life.

 

So back to my point, this is looking like a massive job and you need to work out how the hell you are going to get it under control, if you only have a small budget then your going to need to price the whole lot up. Need to do that anyway. Whats it going to cost to just get that place to a minimal rentable standard, do you have the time and skills to do the work, if not the budget is going to sky rocket.

 

It really looks like the condition of the building is potentially terrible, and righting terrible can cost a fortune. You must understand what you are dealing with before you start spending money, i have made this mistake twice in my life and am still working through my second overstep. 

 

You need to ask some hard questions and get some straight answers, it looks like a money pit and i am just trying to warn you of the potential nightmare that this could be if you dont go into it with your eyes wide open.

 

Ok thats that of my chest, i dont want to sound dour but i would not like to sit back and say nothing and potentially see your project crush you in more ways than one. 

 

I am talking from hard experience.

 

I would say good luck but.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All that stressing over getting BSO down... Well, today he came for initial inspection.. couldnt have been more wrong to what I was fearing... He said or advised that it is perfectly acceptable to concrete the floor as follows:

Chuck in hardcore and compact.
Chuck in soft sand and compact.
Lay 1200g membrane.
Lay insulation layer including perimeter insulation all the way round outside.
Get BCO to do their inspection.
Lay 100mm concrete slab and THATS IT.

Regarding other works he advised exactly the way I was going to do it anyway... so I guess it was definitely good value in that works will be signed of by building regs...
 
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, me too...! at least it can never rot... :) price wise there is very little difference either.. and that would have been me doing all the work with footings, sleeper walls, joists and T&G, It would have taken me much longer too.. with the concrete method, Ill do everything apart from laying the concrete..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, legepe said:

The only thing I didnt ask the bso because Im replacing a wooden floor with laying concrete, whether its a requirement to inject the walls with a dpc cream?

 

That would be a complete waste of time! Doesn't work. Cant work.

 

But, your thoughts behind it are valid. If it has no DPC, installing a concrete floor with a dpm, "may" depending on moisture levels, give you a damp problem in the walls as instead of evaporating in the floor void, it will creep up the walls.

 

How old is the house?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, legepe said:

House is roughly 100 years old... whats the solution if dpm injection cream doesnt work...?

 

 

Dont fit a concrete floor! Limecrete and foam glass dpm might work though. Its what im doing in the 200 year old part of my house. No idea what the BCO will say though...................

 

You should probably go here for a bit of reading, even if it gets a bit scary. http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/ucp.php?mode=login

 

Thing is, its really hard to know what the effect will be if you concrete it. Might be fine, but might not be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, legepe said:

wouldnt the bso have said something if by me concreting it could cause problems... It was my general reasoning for getting in a bso... and then it can be signed off

 

I think experience over at the other forum would suggest most BCO's wouldn't even know or care. They are only concerned with compliance with the regs. That is there job afterall. And subsequent problems are yours. I certainly wouldn't be relying on the BCO for that sort of guidance.

 

I dont speak from experience of doing it, only from needing to "undo" exactly this type of work to rectify issues that its created. Ive yet to start in earnest, but im pretty clear what i need to do. 

 

Spend a few hours on there, then actually look at old properties and the damage caused by modern and inappropiate building work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i will have a look when Im authorized to sign in... Im waiting on approval...

The house I live in is around 20 years old and has a concrete floor with insulation and under that is rubble. Its built on clay

In my mind I'll be applying the same principle to a house that is older... just because im blocking up air flow through the sub floor I cannot see how this can effect the footings of the house that are already sitting in wet clay underground...???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, legepe said:

i will have a look when Im authorized to sign in... Im waiting on approval...

The house I live in is around 20 years old and has a concrete floor with insulation and under that is rubble. Its built on clay

In my mind I'll be applying the same principle to a house that is older... just because im blocking up air flow through the sub floor I cannot see how this can effect the footings of the house that are already sitting in wet clay underground...???

But that has a DPC. Your refurb doesn't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it does have the original slate dpc and there are no signs of rising damp however, I understand that if you block off all the air flow with hardcore and a plastic membrane covering then the moisture in the ground will either stay there, or if allowed, create more chances of it working its way into then up the brickwork... I know you have already said that you dont believe injection works... but I have used this several times now with success.. so i will inject into two mortar lines.. and I would think that any rising damp will not get through (i know the best way is to cut out the mortar and insert a new dpc.. but I ant gonna do that..!)

Edited by legepe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its got a slate DPC, then thats different. From what you said, i thought it simply didn't have one - like my place.

 

You might well be OK.

 

I still think injection is a waste of time. No one can expain how this will fully penetrate a brick and make it water proof.....................................

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So thinking out loud here, if you swap the timber floor for concrete have you thought where your new electric wires will go and your central heating pipes. 

In an old house like that it is going to be hard to find places to conceal it all, unless you like surface run pipes. 

Also you need to consider the final floor finish, getting your average builder to concrete that floor will leave a finish not that flash, so unless he is told it must be to a certain standard I think you will be disappointed with what you get, and having to do extra work to make it good enough for carpet, laminate or tile will be extra expense. 

 

 

On another topic topic you say the upstairs wall bows out by a couple of inches. 

Lenthening the joists to meet the wall again does not really seem like the correct thing to do. 

Maybe you should get a builder in with a good rep and local knowledge of these houses. 

 

Just my thoughts. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

So thinking out loud here, if you swap the timber floor for concrete have you thought where your new electric wires will go and your central heating pipes. 

In an old house like that it is going to be hard to find places to conceal it all, unless you like surface run pipes. 

Also you need to consider the final floor finish, getting your average builder to concrete that floor will leave a finish not that flash, so unless he is told it must be to a certain standard I think you will be disappointed with what you get, and having to do extra work to make it good enough for carpet, laminate or tile will be extra expense. 

I double checked with bso this morning and he confirmed to me that it would be ok to leave a channel around the parameter of the floor for pipes/wires if need be.. I was unsure if I did this would i have to increase the 100mm of concrete but he said it would be fine. I am aware regarding the additional costs involved in finishing the floors, but Ive already made my mind up that it is the best thing to do... Hopefully..

about other post.. the bso also said it would be fine to extend the joists, and all the builders that ive had to look at the works required at the property have said that the bow in the wall is nothing to be worried about..

Thanks Russell for your post though..

Edited by legepe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a good idea to have pipes ( central heating ) and cables in the same void unless the pipes are well insulated. The heat transferred to any cables would reduce their current carrying capacity and the circuit would need derating accordingly.  

Running the pipes around to minimise wall clutter / chasing is a good idea, but the cables I'd keep up the walls if it were me. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Hi all,

Been a while.. Ive just come accross the pics i posted on here quite a while back.. I just wanted to thank everyone for all the input regarding sorting out this house..

Heres a couple of pics.. been finished now a while.. and its been lived in again. :)

20180809_100014.jpg

20180809_095812.jpg

20180809_095620.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...