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The Way we EPC Now


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I ran across this post from @SimonH from 2008 over on GBF this morning:

 

 

Quote

 

"I should have also added the three things that make the biggest difference to an EPC are 

 

A) Cavity Wall insulation (10ish points) 
B) Loft Insulation 5-10ish points. 
c) Fuel +/- 50 points!!! I.e swap from mains gas to peak electric or LPG as your primary heat source and watch your C Rated house EPC drop to F or G. It's because the Score 1-100 is based on £/m2 per year of heating costs. Peak rate electric (or LPG) is over 10p kwh whilst mains gas is 2 and a bit pence.

 

Tank insulation thickness & thermostats, trvs and a decent boiler and time controls all make a difference too - so worth installing (for your own benefit as well as for resale). Don't bother with Solar thermal or PV - they add 1 or 2 points. And as daft as it sounds - go 100% on your CFLs and you'll get 2 points - at minimal cost (99p each in ASDA now). It can bring you up to the next band if you are borderline and you can still take them with you when you move ;-) The assessment is only valid on the day it's done.

 

Simon"


 

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=994

 

What are the big factors and impacts now?

 

The context is that my Little Brown Bungalow renovation for rental of a 1966 3-bed semi bungalow will be given an EPC value of about 76 in the C band. I have done everything to a good standard, including underfloor insulation of 100mm rockwool + 25mm PIR, but not EWI (so walls are still filled cavity ~= 0.55 U-value) and 2G not 3G. The tenants energy bills are likely to be under £500 per year.

 

But I see from Stroma that adding relatively little PV solar would bring it up to a B or even an A, which is a little bizarre.

 

Ferdinand

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