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Air tightness Paints/Sprays


DeeJunFan

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Yes its a replacement for parge coat.

 

The reason i'm looking into the paint is because the plastering crew didn't do my attic gable walls before putting the plaster board up on the ceilings below and i was thinking this method would be less likely to damage the ceiling below. 

 

This stuff is about twice the price of going with parge but would be a much easier job. 

 

Do you think it would do the trick in terms of actual air tightness?

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4 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

Yes its a replacement for parge coat.

 

The reason i'm looking into the paint is because the plastering crew didn't do my attic cable walls before putting the plaster board up on the ceilings below and i was thinking this method would be less likely to damage the ceiling below. 

 

This stuff is about twice the price of going with parge but would be a much easier job. 

 

Do you think it would do the trick in terms of actual air tightness?

 

Yes, I reckon it'd do the job, but a high pressure airless sprayer to effectively apply isn't a cheap bit of kit, even the cheap'ish one I bought.  Not sure a cheap one would handle the relatively big nozzle needed, either.  Mine's OK on a 0.015 nozzle, but might not deliver enough pressure to drive a 0.021 nozzle well.

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The sort of professional machine needed to run a nozzle of that size with a decent spray pattern is going to be around £600 to £800 to buy, and as the nozzles wear (and my guess is that this stuff will wear the nozzles faster than smoother paints) the hire cost might be a bit more than  few quid a day.  I bought my machine second hand from a local chap, who hadn't used it at all, for a couple of hundred and it was a real bargain, but it's only got a relatively small motor and pump, which is fine for spraying emulsion with around a 10" wide spray pattern, but it would probably struggle to deliver that sort of spray pattern width with a bigger nozzle, I think.

 

There's also a fair bit of clean up time with an airless sprayer - it takes a lot longer to prepare and mix the paint and clean out the spray pump, hose and gun, than it does to do the actual painting I found.  It is very quick though, and makes painting in awkward areas a bit easier.

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52 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

Yes its a replacement for parge coat.

 

The reason i'm looking into the paint is because the plastering crew didn't do my attic cable walls before putting the plaster board up on the ceilings below and i was thinking this method would be less likely to damage the ceiling below. 

 

This stuff is about twice the price of going with parge but would be a much easier job. 

 

Do you think it would do the trick in terms of actual air tightness?

Corking around the perimeter of the cieling using gypsum air tight sealant would be far more effective using  Parge coat in a loft area make no sense unless it is habitable

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9 hours ago, DeeJunFan said:

Thanks Jeremy,

 

I'm trying to find some info regarding required pressure for that size of nozzle but not having much luck.

 

Hopefully i can find a solution 

 

 

My guess is that it will run at the same sort of pressure as a normal.  The typical pressure for mine is around 125 to 150 bar with a 0.015 nozzle, and but with something thicker than un-thinned emulsion and a 0.021 nozzle the pressure might have to be closer to the upper limit for the pump, which is around 200 bar IIRC.  In general, airless sprayers operate at or above pressure washer type pressures; they are pretty powerful bits of kit.

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Parge coat or sound is for sound 

Parge coat plus is for both sound and air tightness Using Parge for air tightness is a waste of money

your building needs to be airtight around all plasterboard seems sockets pipes etc 

Taking time to caulk around all ceilings and studs. Sealing around pattresses prior to plasterboard is far more effective 

Edited by Nickfromwales
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9 minutes ago, nod said:

Parge coat or sound is for sound 

Parge coat plus is for both sound and air tightness Using Parge for air tightness is a waste of money

your building needs to be airtight around all plasterboard seems sockets pipes etc 

Taking time to caulk around all ceilings and studs Cieling around pattresses prior to plasterboard is far more effective 

Agreed. I can't see how spraying alone would deal with any complex junctions or 'shoddy' bits. They'd need to be either caulked or taped  first, or better if done after an initial spray ( a first spray so you get a good surface to tape to, if its block for eg ). 

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58 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

I only have plasterboard on ceilings

 

58 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

I only have plasterboard on ceilings

 

57 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Agreed. I can't see how spraying alone would deal with any complex junctions or 'shoddy' bits. They'd need to be either caulked or taped  first, or better if done after an initial spray ( a first spray so you get a good surface to tape to, if its block for eg ). 

Seal all edges with with gypsum sealant Normally get around six linear metes per sausage 

So not exspensive to do 

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Spec says it can be roller applied so i might just go for that.

 

At the moment in the loft i have attic trusses so have a room thats about 6m wide and about 14m long that i plan to use for office/playroom type space when the kids are older so i just want to get the bare block walls on the cable air-tight.  

 

I'm going to line this room with OSB and tape so just want to make the ends airtight. 

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So it's safe to assume there is no parge begind the wall plates or end joists ? Eg a lot of unsealed blockwork and junctions that it'll be damn near impossible to get to. :/

Have you already had the blower test done ? You may be better off just foaming behind each of the osb sheets or buy the green air tight osb and use that. The foam needs to be continuous around the very edge of each sheet so nowt can get through. Use foam then between the block work and the end joists prior to plasterboarding the ceiling. Foam and a rubber tube to inject it where it's needed will be your friend here I think vs any spray product. 

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Would a large bucket with water , bag of cement and Some sand not be easier and cheaper to do. If you have any medusa or similar from the outside plastering then put some in as well. Put it on with a roller and for that size of a wall twice over about 30mins work once you get it mixed and up there. 

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