Jude1234 Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi All, Been reading lots of threads on here and thought I would introduce myself. We are buying a plot with DPP in the garden of a grade II listed building. Would like to incorporate some green energy sources if affordable. As we are on the flightpath of EMA we need to have good sound insulation, so no trickle vents. So we will need MVHR to comply with building regs for ventilation. Still undecided (and will probably depend on cost) on whether triple glazing will make that much difference to sound insulation. A recent article in Build It said not, any thoughts? We are not doing any of the work ourselves as we both work full time, have two children and are useless at DIY. So looking to get a main contractor to do all of the work. Just at the stage of setting a spec in order to get detailed quotes. Is it normal to get fixed quotes ? Anyway look forward to sharing our journey with you all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi and welcome to the fourm. Sounds like an interesting project and you will get plenty of help and advice here I am sure. I would definitely fit triple glazing (I just did) and choosing the correct type of wall insulation will make a big difference to soundproofing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 I'd get your building regs drawings done first if you haven't already. For pricing. A lot can be fixed, some will be provisional 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Welcome Jude, On this link you can download the declaration of performance for various Rationel windows. This includes the sound reducing properties. Basic triple glazing will have 3 panes of 4mm glass. This achieves around 34dB of sound reduction which is not much more than double glazing at 32-33. However, more expensive triple glazing where one pane is 6mm toughened or 6.4mm laminated achieves a much better 39dB reduction. When all the panes are the same thickness sounds can resonate through them when one pane is a different thickness, sound reduction is much improved. Even thicker laminated panes can be used for better noise reduction. The price increase for laminated glass was less than 5% on my windows, but they probably started off quite expensive. It also is much better protected against break in as you can't easily smash the windows. Most of the big triple glazing suppliers can supply this kind of glass if you want better sound reduction. They will cost around £300 per square metre of window. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSharp01 Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi and welcome, sounds interesting - look forward to hearing more. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 Welcome to the forum. You are at the opposite end of the Notts/Derbys border. There are sound-proofed conventional vents available - my Planning Permission from back in 2013 has a condition to apply these. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jude1234 Posted November 23, 2017 Author Share Posted November 23, 2017 Thanks for all the tips. If it all goes ahead (see my other thread) then I will follow them up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jude1234 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Very excited, exchanged contracts today on the plot with completion next week. Just a bit frustrated as our architect is being really slow to prepare the building regs drawings and the minor amendment to planning that we want. Just want to get started now 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 I'm not much further forward than you. Got planning permission beginning of September - builder ready to start as soon as got the go ahead. Architects totally pathetic. Not advising necessary steps, not keeping me informed, not doing as she promised - meant we broke ground in December - and then regretted it as other things that 'due diligence' would have suggested she 'do; tell; inform;' didn't happen so ended up paying out silly monies because time was of the essence, builder was on site and Christmas meant delays of various kinds. Moving forward now, but still getting issues arising that either wouldn't have happened or could have been better planned for. My advice would be to sort out utility plans and quotes, engineering calcs, planning conditions sign off; before setting any dates to start physical work. Oh and I have already 'spent' about 24k of a 20k (20%) contingency Really not trying to 'rain on your parade' --- I and You will still have the privilege of living in our own individual home - but the more time taken getting things right at the start will prevent many headaches. Unfortunately I didn't find this forum early enough. Having said that - one thing this forum is really good at (as well as giving great advice; points to consider;opportunities to laugh at and commiserate with others) is an awareness that s*** happens to the best of us. AND some of it is far worse than financial. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jude1234 Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 Progress update. We now own the land and the builders have started to dig the ground for foundations. Very excited that it is all starting now, it all seems very real now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Site looks dry. Well drained soil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Hi looks nice and flat, have you not had to put a tree protection zone near those beech trees, be careful of any root damage it could reflect in future crown die back, builders do tend to think trees have a root system like a carrot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Welcome. Sounds like a nice plot! One thing: if you're going for MVHR (a good thing - I'd never go back to living without it), you need to be thinking now about airtightness. Little details addressed at this stage will pay large dividends on how easy it will be to reach a reasonable airtightness level. For example, if you're going brick and block, look into parge coating (search "parge" on the forum). Consider how airtightness will be handled at interfaces between different building elements, such as around windows, and where walls meet roof. Lots of info around the forum, but if you have any specific questions, fire them off in the relevant forum and someone will hopefully be able to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jude1234 Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 21 hours ago, Oz07 said: Site looks dry. Well drained soil? It is clay soil and was a bit muddy in places. But it slopes downwards after the metal fence so water runs down that way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jude1234 Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 9 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Hi looks nice and flat, have you not had to put a tree protection zone near those beech trees, be careful of any root damage it could reflect in future crown die back, builders do tend to think trees have a root system like a carrot. All of the big trees have TPOs which is why the metal fence is put up. It was a condition of the planning permission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jude1234 Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 7 hours ago, jack said: Welcome. Sounds like a nice plot! One thing: if you're going for MVHR (a good thing - I'd never go back to living without it), you need to be thinking now about airtightness. Little details addressed at this stage will pay large dividends on how easy it will be to reach a reasonable airtightness level. For example, if you're going brick and block, look into parge coating (search "parge" on the forum). Consider how airtightness will be handled at interfaces between different building elements, such as around windows, and where walls meet roof. Lots of info around the forum, but if you have any specific questions, fire them off in the relevant forum and someone will hopefully be able to help. Thanks for the advice. We are definitely having MVHR. It is a timber frame house. rather than brick and block. We have a contractor doing all of the build, so air tightness will be their responsibility. But we have made it clear to them that it is important. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Feel free to post your detailed construction drawings in the relevant subforum and you may get some useful feedback, even just along the lines of particular areas you should be watching the timberframe company. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Jude1234 said: All of the big trees have TPOs which is why the metal fence is put up. It was a condition of the planning permission. In that case be very careful with the fence location, in the pics it looks a bit close, you should have some wording listing the tree protection zone and the distance out from the trunk, be careful builders will move things to make life easy for themselves and you could get a nasty fine. Just a friendly warning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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