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Grout or Silicone


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53 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Silicone as it's flexible. I think I'd making tape both wall and floor, apply the silicone then peel off the tape.

I had silicone in my mind, think I'll try that. I have one of those fugi tools that I might use, or mask it with tape.

White or brown?

Thanks

Edited by Woodgnome
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I think you need to look at the two edges, white and brown, then use the colour that will mask the more uneven of them.

 

So you get to create a new straight visual divide with the edge of your perfectly straight silicon bead if necessary using plasterer's tape or your preternaturally excellent silicone skills !

 

From the piccie, the brown looks less straight, so I would do it in brown to de-emphasise that wavy line and move the perceived colour join to the bottom of the skirting.

Edited by Ferdinand
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Special tool? Nah, don't bother. On a long run like that an EMPTY silicone tube is what you want. 

 

Put a drop of Fairy in a jug with some water.

 

Cut the end off the silicone tube SQUARE. None of that 45deg b@llocks.

 

Flatten the end a bit and dip the in the soapy water. Go along your silicone and it leaves a lovely neat filet. Excess collects in the empty tube. Periodically re-dip in the water:

 

20171029_224521.thumb.jpg.75b6bd5d4beafc8856e22dfe70b2f102.jpg

 

20171029_224536.thumb.jpg.e43aedfaf4006c33b508bb36d885923b.jpg

 

Maybe I'll do a video!

 

Taught to me by a Moldovan commercial glazing fitter. 

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I would grout it, keeping it as minimal as possible, then let it dry, then go over it with a bead of clear CT1. Silicone won't put up with mopping / abrasion etc anywhere near as well plus you really don't want silicone next to a painted surface as it can't be over-painted like CT1 can. 

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Isn't grout less flexible though than silicone? I'd assumed if under the flooring there was a mat,  then there would be some "give" and treading near the edge would crack grout?

Lets assume it's a slab and there'd be no give and no severe cracking ;). I expect the grout to develop a hairline crack at the skirting, but if the grout is sponged back so it's concave at the joint then the CT1 will bridge that, fill the crack line and remain flexible enough to keep it covered whilst also allowing the grout colour to still be partially seen. 

Just pumping the void full of clear will make it look black as it'll form a clear window into the dark shadow / gap. 

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31 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Lets assume it's a slab and there'd be no give and no severe cracking ;). I expect the grout to develop a hairline crack at the skirting, but if the grout is sponged back so it's concave at the joint then the CT1 will bridge that, fill the crack line and remain flexible enough to keep it covered whilst also allowing the grout colour to still be partially seen. 

Just pumping the void full of clear will make it look black as it'll form a clear window into the dark shadow / gap. 

 

Gotcha! Sorry, didn't read your response properly.

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11 hours ago, Woodgnome said:

What would you use on the join between the wall and floor tiles. Grout or silicone, and brown to match floor or white to match wall?

Thanks. 

20171029_142226.jpg

Just playing "devils advocate" but why do you feel you need a seal?

 

is it a bathroom floor?

 

(I'm assuming your airtightness barrier is not dependant on a seal at this position and that the joint between skirting and floor is consistent)

Edited by Ian
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I'm in the "it looks just fine as it is" camp.

 

If you fill it with anything it risks looking poor in the future. Grout may crack. Sealant may discolour or become dirty and grotty looking.

 

If anyone asks, you have left a carefully engineered "shadow gap" instead.

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