Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Title says it all .

Will only have simple shapes to print . Assume £200 ish for a decent printer ? 
Also which cheap software ? Sketch ??

Posted
15 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Dumb question 

Do the filaments for printing come in RAL colour ? I.e can you colour match .

Any advice welcome !

Good range of colours but you can’t match and they don’t (usually) end up the same colour/shade as the filament roll.

Posted
14 minutes ago, markc said:

Good range of colours but you can’t match and they don’t (usually) end up the same colour/shade as the filament roll.

Ok . So it’s a ‘nearest guess’ for colours ?

What about the finished item - it’s plastic but I don’t want it to fade in direct sunlight nor become brittle .

Posted

Wrong forum. Head over to the MIG welding forum. (I'll apologise to them beforehand). 

 

Creality Ender 3 V2 maybe would get you started. Loads of support and upgradeable. At this price just buy it...now:

 

https://store.creality.com/uk/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer?utm_source=googleads&gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyY6pBhA9EiwAMzmfwTOrWf7HGZ8tMiYGyk5sF1qDnIEAjL4DOs4L82VLj6FjDOAvezh7sBoCKUIQAvD_BwE

 

No you can't colour match like that. Plastic primer and paint works. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Onoff said:

With your budget it's got to be a Bambu Lab X1. Super fast. 

I want cheap but not something I’ll bin later ! Resin is the way to go !

Posted

PLA easiest to print, the most common etc. Then PETG. ABS and ASA really need an enclosure as a tendency to warp, toxuc fumes etc. TPU if you want to print any rubber products ☺️

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Pocster said:

I want cheap but not something I’ll bin later ! Resin is the way to go !

 

Resin yes if you want to print small, intricate parts maybe. Really messy. Requires washing, UV curing etc. You'll sell an Ender FDM printer all day long for near what you paid for it plus it'd be a really great introduction.

Edited by Onoff
Posted
Just now, Onoff said:

You'll sell an Ender all day long for near what you paid for it plus it'd be a really great introduction.

Sounds like his onlyfans site.

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

What are you trying to make?

Knowing that will make the choices easier.

All kinds of cover bits to hide all kinds of shame 

Posted
20 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Wrong forum. Head over to the MIG welding forum. (I'll apologise to them beforehand). 

 

Creality Ender 3 V2 maybe would get you started. Loads of support and upgradeable. At this price just buy it...now:

 

https://store.creality.com/uk/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer?utm_source=googleads&gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyY6pBhA9EiwAMzmfwTOrWf7HGZ8tMiYGyk5sF1qDnIEAjL4DOs4L82VLj6FjDOAvezh7sBoCKUIQAvD_BwE

 

No you can't colour match like that. Plastic primer and paint works. 

You want me to push the button on this ?

What easy software to create my 3d sex toys should I use ?

Posted
Just now, Pocster said:

You want me to push the button on this ?

What easy software to create my 3d sex toys should I use ?

 

The link I pm'd you does it all for you. Just drag the pick points for length, width etc and it'll produce an stl file. Put that into Cura or whatever slicing program to create the G-code for the printer. 

 

Merry Christmas Mrs Pocster!

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Wrong forum. Head over to the MIG welding forum. (I'll apologise to them beforehand). 

 

Creality Ender 3 V2 maybe would get you started. Loads of support and upgradeable. At this price just buy it...now:

 

https://store.creality.com/uk/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer?utm_source=googleads&gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyY6pBhA9EiwAMzmfwTOrWf7HGZ8tMiYGyk5sF1qDnIEAjL4DOs4L82VLj6FjDOAvezh7sBoCKUIQAvD_BwE

 

No you can't colour match like that. Plastic primer and paint works. 

Ordered 

Posted

we bought one of these. https://store.creality.com/uk/products/ender-3-s1-plus-3d-printer?utm_source=googleads&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxaX-hMLpgQMVGMftCh2BkQkfEAAYASAAEgJSrPD_BwE. was very easy to setup and use. I chose that one as I didn't want to bother with upgrading parts and this one came with some of those upgraded parts already included.

 

oh....and because I'm not a cheapskate and didn't want to buy the cheapest thing out there like some! 🤣

Posted

I'm actually a 3D technician... I have an Ultimaker S5 and a Form 3 for my resin stuff.

If you're going to do stuff that's in the sun then PLA will warp to sh!t as it's glass transition temperature is really low. For example a pla cup holder in your car will not be holding the cup after a summers day... you'd need to use ABS which would be nigh on impossible without an enclosure if you need to get it accurate. You could build a box over it, I did that previously with an old Ultimaker and it worked ok.

 

Software wise I use Rhino and Fusion. Learning curve might be tough if you haven't used them before. SketchUp does work as you can export to .stl but you'll find anything round comes out basically a series of flat sides joined together.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, Super_Paulie said:

If you're going to do stuff that's in the sun then PLA will warp to sh!t as it's glass transition temperature is really low. For example a pla cup holder in your car will not be holding the cup after a summers day... you'd need to use ABS

Google tells me asa is what I need .

Just a simple filament change in the printer if I wish to use prints externally ?

Posted

As long as you can keep your enclosure up to around 50° you'll be laughin. Can't say I've used ASA as we have no need but as long as the transition temperature is within your criteria it'll work. If it's open canopy then you'll get warping which is no good for rigid members.

Posted
19 minutes ago, Super_Paulie said:

As long as you can keep your enclosure up to around 50° you'll be laughin. Can't say I've used ASA as we have no need but as long as the transition temperature is within your criteria it'll work. If it's open canopy then you'll get warping which is no good for rigid members.

Yeah . Also all this manual bed levelling seems a pain . K1 better as enclosed aswell ??. I want to print and go not faff 

Posted

Manual bed leveling is a chew on but not that bad. You get what you pay for really, my Ultimaker does auto bed leveling so it's a thing of the past for me. Pretty sure you can get an auto leveling add on for the cheap printers but no idea how good they are. 3D printers are a faff no matter what I'm afraid. You can do a duplicate job that worked perfectly and then the next time it just ends up a right clip. It's all about dialling in the settings to get the results you want but it's all experience really.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Super_Paulie said:

Manual bed leveling is a chew on but not that bad. You get what you pay for really, my Ultimaker does auto bed leveling so it's a thing of the past for me. Pretty sure you can get an auto leveling add on for the cheap printers but no idea how good they are. 3D printers are a faff no matter what I'm afraid. You can do a duplicate job that worked perfectly and then the next time it just ends up a right clip. It's all about dialling in the settings to get the results you want but it's all experience really.

Been reading up the bambu lab is really the boy and mixed views on creality .

Ask creality to cancel my order for now . @Onoff was selling me a dud 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...