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Ride On Mower Repair


Onoff

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7 hours ago, Temp said:

Is there an oil filter in the hydro unit? I'll have to investigate as I've never changed one in mine if there is. Mind you mine leaks so it's getting new oil regularly.

 

 

On mine if you look at the drive unit from the back there is a socket bolt on the right near the bottom. If you undo the plug you can take the filter out. Will see if I can find a link. 

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Just had a look at the assy drawing for my Toro and it has 2 filters in the hydro unit. The small one is £12 in the UK and the larger is £41-£48. Never seen/noticed any references to these in the servicing. The larger one appears to be buried inside the unit and I think would be a big job to replace.

 

Toro Transmission filters.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Brake seized up! :(

 

 

20181022_175905

 

Peerless gearbox I believe:

 

20181022_175925

 

Two steel studs tapped into the alloy gearbox case:

 

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Corroded and then some. Should have a threaded portion on the ends. So this (broken)

Cast bit can bolt on:

 

20181022_180029

 

20181022_180046

 

Too bloody cold to carry on out there tonight! 

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  • 1 month later...

How are you getting on with the westwood mower? I have bought one and I'm going to service it in the new year ready for the springtime ( we have a lot of work to do with it up to the summer)  Have you a preferred parts supplier and do you know if the transmission has a oil filter? 

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27 minutes ago, Olly P said:

How are you getting on with the westwood mower? I have bought one and I'm going to service it in the new year ready for the springtime ( we have a lot of work to do with it up to the summer)  Have you a preferred parts supplier and do you know if the transmission has a oil filter? 

 

Sat under a tarp at the mo. Done nothing since my US mate sent me the brake caliper.

 

Pm me your email and I'll send you the info I have on the T1200. These are scans and a parts list from Westwood themselves as the stuff isn't available in electronic format as it's so old.

 

I get most of my bits from Godfreys in Sevenoaks but most agricultural machinery suppliers should be able to help. B&S engine on mine so all standard parts available anywhere.

 

The Peerless gearbox is supposedly maintenance free but the shaft seals do apparently fail. Deffo no filter. A few vids on YouTube of them being stripped. Will try and find a link.

 

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I have a Massey Furguson lawn tractor and the axle seals went but read that the gearbox/hydro unit was factory sealed and no components available. I dug the seals out and found replacements from a beating supplier locally, which I inserted. No where could I find what type of oil and how much was required so I rang the gearbox manufacturers in the USA and their tech guy told me which oil and how much ?. It’s sat waiting fir me to complete the landscaping.

Edited by joe90
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Fantastic I will Pm you my email now. Mines also a B&S engine. I am going to use it to cut my 4 acre field (not all of it, only maybe half of it more or less but undecided yet). 

 

We are using the field to put a fairly large  marquee on for a weekend in august next year and it has had 5 bullocks in it most of this year so it needs some TLC, plenty of cutting, rolling and harrowing to get it looking nice.

 

Im looking forward to getting stuck in but im starting to think maybe i should of got a larger machine but this came up for sale locally and is in fantastic condition and came with a little trailer, spare "arrow" wheels/tyres. 

 

Have you used yours to cut any long rough grass? If so how did it cope?

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I'll dig out and send that stuff.

 

It's a good mower tbh. I only have half an acre and that's split into about 3 grassed areas. It copes fine even if long. Walk your field first and look for any debris like bricks etc which will destroy your blade.

 

Rust in the body panels is an issue. I think they just powdercoated over the steel.

 

The grass collection box uses a flail system of nylon brushes. I replaced the majority when given the motor. One thing is they slide into a 1" box section that can rust & swell then pop the individual flails. I do have some spare lengths of 1" box of you need it.

 

2018-12-02_11-09-52

 

I've a long term problem when you put it into reverse too quickly and the drive belt jumps off. Not figured that yet but tbh its a bit scary to get down and look whilst it's going!

 

There's "tips" bolted on the ends of the blades that can come loose so check them. Something to do with creating uplift and sucking the grass up I think. I ended up welding mine on.

 

 

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  • 8 months later...

FINALLY sorted the brake / clutch. Those two poxy, broken 1/4" BSW bolts fought me until the end! Moved the big orange patio ornament yesterday. Getting it back to the main lawn was fun.

 

IMG_20190813_152345976.thumb.jpg.7cde6ba88c247cdc80349bb6fe215996.jpg

 

A mate and I handballed it down originally...he's having his hernia op tomorrow... ?

 

Now to sort:

 

- Seized pulley on the cutting deck

- Seized pulley on the grass box

- Seized grass roller, back of the grass box.

 

Biggest problem is the corrosion on the cutting deck side skirt. Was going to make up a new one today and weld on but it hasn't stopped raining. 

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  • 8 months later...

All repaired and painted up, derusted where possible. Either painted with just zinc rich whatever (using up dregs of cans) or zinc rich followed by Lidl Baufix paint. 90% of the fixings will be renewed in stainless. Be nice to use just a 13mm spanner and socket rather that 7/16" on the bolt and 1/2" on the nut! Better than it was anyway:

 

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New section of side skirt and internal "deflector shields" made:

 

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Typically, just before the lockdown, I found a local blasting shop that seems to be the sort of place ideal to have cleaned the deck up back to bare metal for reasonable money.

 

Or I could have made up a citric acid bath with some blocks and a sheet of DPM maybe...

 

As it stands my attempts with the rotary wire cup brush should give it a couple more years. Tbh there's bugger all to the deck. I might even consider making one o/of stainless steel next time and just transferring all the bits over. Wishing I'd bought one of those Lidl plasma cutters a while back. Far less complicated than the rotten deck on the other ride on mower I have, an MTD.

 

Ref the assembly of this deck unsure on how important it is to balance the blades? Pre strip down it vibrated like merry Hell. The blade is retained by a central 3/8"x24 UNF bolt and a projecting plain shank "pin" that again goes into the same size UNF tapped hole in one of two holes either side. One blade had clearly been moving about as it had worn the holes oval. All filled with weld and re drilled now. 

 

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Useless supplier just sent me a 3/4" UNF tap rather than a 3/8" one! ?

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Looks like you'll get a few years from that.

Thereused to be someone in eBay doing new decks for Westwood's. Might have stopped advertising in the short term.

 

I'd try and get new blades if you can, made a massive difference to my folks old mower, they were about half as thick as they should be, lost about 1/2" off the cutting edge and had lost the wings that create the draught to blow the clippings into the collector duct. It was not picking up properly before, now it's almost as good as new.

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2 minutes ago, JFDIY said:

Looks like you'll get a few years from that.

Thereused to be someone in eBay doing new decks for Westwood's. Might have stopped advertising in the short term.

 

I'd try and get new blades if you can, made a massive difference to my folks old mower, they were about half as thick as they should be, lost about 1/2" off the cutting edge and had lost the wings that create the draught to blow the clippings into the collector duct. It was not picking up properly before, now it's almost as good as new.

 

Chap over on the MIG welding forum does them to order in stainless.

 

As I say I could get the sheet material from my fabricator and make my own. Making a full skirt like I did for the section, by notching and bending is pretty labour intensive. Rolling would be much better.

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On 18/04/2020 at 10:50, Onoff said:

Ref the assembly of this deck unsure on how important it is to balance the blades?

 

When I sharpen mine on the bench grinder I balance them by laying them on a triangular file like a seesaw. I don't get too fussy about it and they seem ok. Likewise it's not always possible to set the blades at exactly 90 degrees to each other, they are sometimes a tooth out on the belt. That doesn't seem to be a problem either.

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