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Russ P

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29 minutes ago, Russ P said:

Them Buffer tanks ain't cheap are they ???

 

You can do it with a standard hot water cylinder - just get a direct one and use the tappings with a T and that will work fine. 

 

Bear in mind though a standard tank can only do 1.5 bar - other option is an indirect tank and then run the UFH off the water stored. 

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Just found this thread and about to start my UFH so found it interesting, due to illness and bad planning on my part we are having a liquid screed and just read...".Remeber that liquid screed is a real pita to get anything ( like tiles ) to stick to"...... ( from Nick) . What can I do to aid sticking tiles and or block flooring to my liquid screed please.

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3 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Just found this thread and about to start my UFH so found it interesting, due to illness and bad planning on my part we are having a liquid screed and just read...".Remeber that liquid screed is a real pita to get anything ( like tiles ) to stick to"...... ( from Nick) . What can I do to aid sticking tiles and or block flooring to my liquid screed please.

Think I read on BH somewhere that it can be 'sanded down' by a few mm to get rid of the scummy top. But I'm sure the experts on here know more...

 

ahh found them:

 

and 

 

 

Edited by oranjeboom
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18 hours ago, PeterW said:

You can do it with a standard hot water cylinder - just get a direct one and use the tappings with a T and that will work fine. 

Can you explain? 

I was thinking the whole house heating and the Ufh would all heat off a medium size buffer. The heating load sounds quite minimal so maybe the better option if one is being bought anyway?

@Russ P, your other option is just to live with the short cycling and lower efficiency running but it's not good. 

The buffer would need tappings for the Ufh flow and return, another pair for the radiators, and also another pump for the radiator circuit. The boiler pumps to the buffer instructed by the cylinder stat on the buffer, so the boiler lights, runs at optimal flow temp for condensing and efficient operation, and heats the buffer to the set temp. The rads and Ufh then consume this indirect stored hot water at the rate that they want and no more. The buffer temp can be set quite low, say 50oC, so the heat loss from it is minimised. 

Do you have an airing cupboard? 

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38 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Can you explain? 

 

Probably ..... 

 

treat the tank like a low loss header - tee into the top and bottom connections so that the tank bridges the flow and return. Boiler to one side, UFH to the other. UFH will pull from the tank as needed - if the boiler pump is running it will just use the least resistance flow which is to go via the tank. 

 

You could always put it in as the final "radiator" in the circuit too and wire the tank stat and room stat in parallel so it keeps going once the rooms are satisfied but that may need you to do some clever controls 

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11 minutes ago, PeterW said:

@joe90 go for a 250l HP UVC and you won't be far wrong... price difference for 200-250 is buttons. 

Peter, thanks for this, just to be sure it's for DHW at mains pressure driven by an ASHP which is driving UFH as well ( which I believe needs a buffer tank ( size ?). Gosh I really need to get my head around this.

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Right @joe90 I've got ....

 

- 250 UVC with a HP coil. Immersion for legionella control and nightly boost to 65c

 

- 90 litre buffer (std direct cylinder) for the UFH and as a preheat for the DHW via plate heat exchanger 

 

- 9KW ASHP 

 

All on E7, no PV...

 

 

 

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