Cleaning out deep narrow holes

[Ferdinand]

I have today hired a Stihl BT131 one man auger, with 100mm and 150mm auger bits. Power is 1.2kw.

 

It happily did posts in difficult ground, but we did not have tree roots, and it did not have much effect on the iron pan.

 

Would consider one secondhand, but not at the £800 or so a new one and the auger would cost.

 

Good for normal fence posts in normal to somewhat difficult ground.

 

Ferdinand

 

Edited August 1, 2017 by Ferdinand

[CC45]

What size posts were you putting in?  How easy was it to keep plumb?

[Ferdinand]

7 hours ago, CC45 said:

What size posts were you putting in?  How easy was it to keep plumb?

 

100x100 posts. 600 deep holes. Using a 150mm auger and then enlarging the holes either with the auger or manually.

 

I put in 4x4 concrete post spurs, and the 4x4 posts are being bolted to these. They are staying put.

 

It was done by my handyman, and the posts are plumb - but there was some space to adjust the posts as required.

 

That doesn't quite answer your question. Will check with the handyman if I can.

 

F

Edited August 2, 2017 by Ferdinand

[Onoff]

7 hours ago, CC45 said:

What size posts were you putting in?  How easy was it to keep plumb?

 

Done loads of posts, mainly concrete. Drop the post in the hole & a couple of shovels of hardcore smacked down with a length of timber holds it roughly in place. Hardcore good around timber posts as it helps with drainage. Use a post level to gauge it roughly for plumb:

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/post-level/14623

 

I always then faff with 6' spirit level. Push it over a bit, tamp the concrete etc. If slightly off, brace at an angle with a bit of timber wedged in the dirt and up against the post even if you have to put a quick clamp on the post.

[Ferdinand]

48 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Done loads of posts, mainly concrete. Drop the post in the hole & a couple of shovels of hardcore smacked down with a length of timber holds it roughly in place. Hardcore good around timber posts as it helps with drainage. Use a post level to gauge it roughly for plumb:

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/post-level/14623

 

I always then faff with 6' spirit level. Push it over a bit, tamp the concrete etc. If slightly off, brace at an angle with a bit of timber wedged in the dirt and up against the post even if you have to put a quick clamp on the post.

 

USA people often bed their posts in packed gravel.

 

There was a conversation on GBF some time ago about this including this about rammed stone and gateposts from a Mr DeClock:

 

Quote

Gate posts..... So i have looked at what you have got and can make a few comments (rightly or wrongly) personally i would be using a 200mm x 200mm diameter post if it was treated softwood. 
I would never dig a hole less than 900mm deep on the low side and preferably 1000mm. I would use the traditional method of rammed stone to secure the post. This method involves driving in angular rocks around the post until they are wedged incredibly tightly, you start at the bottom and work up. The first and last 200mm are the most important as this is where the strain is, however i always make sure that the whole post is secured tightly from the bottom to the top. I drive the rocks in with a 1.6m crow bar which has a flat rounded end welded on it, big rocks first then drive wedges into the gaps until it all becomes solid then just work on up ! This method allows natural drainage and does not hold water next to the post, it is however tricky to do well if you are not experienced.

 

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12885

 

(!)

 

THat looks truly excellent but does rather remind me of how they probably built Macchu Picchu.

Edited August 2, 2017 by Ferdinand

[Onoff]

28 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

 

USA people often bed their posts in packed gravel.

 

There was a conversation on GBF some time ago about this including this about rammed stone and gateposts from a Mr DeClock:

 

 

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12885

 

(!)

 

THat looks truly excellent but does rather remind me of how they probably built Macchu Picchu.

 

"Start at the bottom and work up..."

 

Top tip there, never have guessed!

[CC45]

Interested in how easy the auger was to use - phase 1 of fencing has finished but Q a lot of smaller posts to go in eventually.

 

Thanks both.

[PeterW]

Augers are very easy if you remember it's a 2 stroke engine and to get the torque it needs to be running pretty fast ... 2 man one is much easier if it has to be hand held otherwise I would go excavator every time.