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Wall for sole plate square


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Hey all,

 

Finally managed to source everything I need to do the 'wall' for which the sole plate sits on.

Have a spinny rotating laser (technical term! B|) for getting it level.

One thing I am wary of is how to make sure it's square? i.e. A is the same length as B. Difficult to measure with a tape or pin and line as it's around 12metres. I'm concious I could drift and not be 'square'. Any suggestions on how I make sure this is ok?

 

Also I *assumed* I would bed the corner blocks first so I have something to follow?

 

Or should I use the length of A & B to set my run of bricks i.e. those lengths (assuming the same) are my guide???

 

I know I could pythagoras and build a 3-4-5 wooden triangle or similar; this the best method for the 90degress angle?

 

Any advice appreciated!

 

Cheers

 

 

IMG_5517.JPG

Edited by pocster
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This is very informative, the first 15 mins are probably irrelevant to you as I know you have started building already, I started to type out some of the things you need to do but as they say a picture paints a thousand words so I looked up a vid that should get you to a point where you will have a number of lines up that you can then check for square. 

I would go out and invest in a longer tape measure so you can check your diagonals. 

You can also buy a 3/4/5 square that folds up into a nice tube for protection, they are fairly dear but you will use it hundreds of times before you finish your build so long term a good investment. 

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Digital lasers are great but good luck finding the dot over any distance - it can take ages!!!  I've got a Bosch one too

 

My mate sent me that video and it  was a godsend when I did the setting out. 

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THanks guys 

 

tbh I've Been thinking about a digital laser measure for ages - I'm sure we are all use to struggling on our own with a tape .

will get a 90 degree measure as well 

Edited by pocster
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10 hours ago, PeterW said:

I doubt a digital laser will be accurate enough. We did nail and tape over a 10x6m block and its within 3mm built up - laser was only used to set the corner levels

 

 

I thought it would be say on 12m. I know seeing the laser dot outside might be tricky but I have some red filter googles or simply stick some white paper on the distant target.

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If use 2 metal tapes then you will square it mins. If as mentioned you use nails to mark the points it's a job you can do yourself very quickly and accurately in no time in any weather. We all love a bit of new tech but for this job a gd metal tape is the winner every time.

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This is great info and the 345 rule was going to be my go to for the garage slab shuttering but I have another question which I will tag onto this to keep it to one informative wall starting post; I know the OP has a spinny laser thingy to get his heights, but what did they do before this magic?

 

The reason I ask is I built a small wall a few weeks ago, I was fairly sure of the found being fairly level as I did my best to get it right. So I worked out the proposed location of the wall with pegs and strings and stuff and checked and checked again to make sure I was about to start my wall in the correct location then I placed a bed of mortar on my found, set the first block and then wrapped a string around it and ran it out to the opposite end of the wall (5000mm away), I then took another block and just placed it at the centre point on the found and sat a straight piece of CLS between the first block and the middle block and using packers set it till the CLS was dead level and sat square on both blocks, I then used that block to run the CLS to the opposite corner of my 5000mm long wall. I lined up the opposite corner block, set a bed of mortar and lightly sat the block on it, then using my CLS and level I was able to check that the block was dead level to the middle block. I checked all the levels again and was happy, I set the line to the very top edge of the two blocks now set in mortar and I now had my line to work to... or so I thought.

 

I started running block into the centre from both ends at the same time and when I got to the middle block the LHS wall was 10mm taller than the RHS. Now over 5000mm this is a heck of a lot in my eyes. To resolve it I just ran a slightly bigger bed on the low side and a smaller bed on the high side. I know it would not pass BC and is not good but as it is just 2 blocks high to hold some back-fill up and will end up covered in concrete I was not too upset; well actually I was because I spent a lot of time trying to get it right.

 

But what would have been the way to do this and get it right? I guess my CLS was not that straight, never is I guess - should have used a piece of aluminium box section or gone in smaller increments and used a 1800mm level.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 13 June 2017 at 17:32, Carrerahill said:

I guess my CLS was not that straight, never is I guess - should have used a piece of aluminium box section or gone in smaller increments and used a 1800mm level.

Yup, wood just isn't ever that straight. Plus you should have kept it vertical, and rotated it lengthways by 180o so as to correct the squiff back to the third checkpoint. If marking a long wall with a spirit level you always do the same. Never keep using the SL in the same direction as any inaccuracy in the SL will just keep you heading up / down hill so you keep flipping the level round for each length you mark, therefore correcting it as you go. ;)

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I genuinely saw a rough old brickie attempt to improvise a water level with hosepipe (I.e. not transparent ) & a bottle of Lucozade once. 

Honestly,there are some right chancers in & around London :((

Edited by Brickie
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13 minutes ago, Brickie said:

I genuinely saw a rough old brickie attempt to improvise a water level with hosepipe (I.e. not transparent ) & a bottle of Lucozade once. 

Honestly,there are some right chancers in & around London :((

 

Ahem! If you remember I actually used TWO Lucozade bottles... :)

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