Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework

[Russell griffiths]

I can't be bothered to read all the previous posts but why are you trying to form this with a concrete mix,

i have formed dozens of shower and wet room floors all to falls and we use a screed mix,slightly wetter than you would screed a whole house just form the falls using a spirit level and a few bits of 2x2 cut to the required lengths chuck all your mix in and level with the existing floor area. 

Scape down your fall heading to the drain just keep dragging your level over it checking you have the fall you want, 

trowel up to a good finish ready for your tanking. 

I will try to find you a vid as I have very few pics of work I have previously done. 

All wet rooms in oz are like this you will struggle to even buy a shower tray. 

[Russell griffiths]

Right mr @Onoff

[Onoff]

20 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

https://www.meshdirect.co.uk/stainless-steel-netting.html

 

im sure galvanised will be fine .... 

 

Won't be st/st at that price that's for sure.

 

Anyway, going with MY plan and the exotic pea shingle mix No.4. The angle will be like lace when I've finished drilling it. 

 

YES I have been warned! 

 

[Onoff]

5 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Right mr @Onoff

 

Very nice but I need defined lines like they've jumped off AutoCAD. Plus I'm using big tiles not mosaics.

[Russell griffiths]

Ok so in my very humble opinion you are making this far harder than it needs to be. 

I cant chat long as I'm sitting on my hotel bed waiting for the misses to get ready so I can go out and get wasted. 

In yhe vid he has a centre drain, yours is at the end, work out your preferred fall to this drain and set it down (I think you have already done this) mix up a load of screed, if you want to modify it you can add a bonding agent to it or even some 10 mm stone, mix up all you need in one go don't be fu###ing about you will be very busy in a minute 

chuck it all in and compact very well, use timber or a level to scrape to desired height 

DO NOT WORRY IF FINISH IS NOT PERFECT. 

you are trying to get correct fall not a surface good enough to varnish, when you are happy you have youralls you can then go over it and give it a good polish up fill in all the voids, if you want shiny use a steel trowelled finish if you want a bit of grip buff it up with a plastic float. 

Hurry up I'm of for a pint and a boogie, I expect it finished by Sunday night. Chop chop. 

While ive been slowly typing you have replied. 

Take your auto cad and print it out chuck all you mix in like I said refer to your drawings and scribe into the top of the mix your two long fall lines use a straight edge and edge of trowel, you will end up with a screed mix that has a 4 section triangle thing if viewed from above. 

Check your measurements 324 times ( I put that bit in for you ) look at it a couple more times and adjust if needed, polish up and fill in any little low spots and shave of any high ones. 

Open a can and drink to my good health. 

[Onoff]

 

7 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

.....that has a 4 section triangle thing.....

 

Isosceles trapezium is the term!

[Nickfromwales]

2 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Ok so in my very humble opinion you are making this far harder than it needs to be. 

I cant chat long as I'm sitting on my hotel bed waiting for the misses to get ready so I can go out and get wasted. 

In yhe vid he has a centre drain, yours is at the end, work out your preferred fall to this drain and set it down (I think you have already done this) mix up a load of screed, if you want to modify it you can add a bonding agent to it or even some 10 mm stone, mix up all you need in one go don't be fu###ing about you will be very busy in a minute 

chuck it all in and compact very well, use timber or a level to scrape to desired height 

DO NOT WORRY IF FINISH IS NOT PERFECT. 

you are trying to get correct fall not a surface good enough to varnish, when you are happy you have youralls you can then go over it and give it a good polish up fill in all the voids, if you want shiny use a steel trowelled finish if you want a bit of grip buff it up with a plastic float. 

Hurry up I'm of for a pint and a boogie, I expect it finished by Sunday night. Chop chop. 

While ive been slowly typing you have replied. 

Take your auto cad and print it out chuck all you mix in like I said refer to your drawings and scribe into the top of the mix your two long fall lines use a straight edge and edge of trowel, you will end up with a screed mix that has a 4 section triangle thing if viewed from above. 

Check your measurements 324 times ( I put that bit in for you ) look at it a couple more times and adjust if needed, polish up and fill in any little low spots and shave of any high ones. 

Open a can and drink to my good health. 

@Onoff

Hes got a point mate. Dry screed can be laid, tamped, scraped and shaved into the perfect shape. Start at 10:00 and be done by lunchtime. Adding SBR will just make the screed stick to everything too, and make it harder to work with. 

[Construction Channel]

your just making it worse, 

where the rest of us are reading very sensible and time saving responses, all onoff can see is " bet you cant do it" 

 

 

[Onoff]

What is heavier, dry screed or a wet concrete mix?

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

Wet concerte is denser Shirley? So therefore should be heavier. Not sure about when their both dry though, can't be much in it. 

[Onoff]

10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Wet concerte is denser Shirley? So therefore should be heavier. Not sure about when their both dry though, can't be much in it. 

 

Was thinking, with "aggregate", whether sand, ballast or cement dust is denser than the same volume of water and won't evaporate. If screed is heavier it's steering me that way maybe. Because of the Polypipe panel hollows and relative thinness at the slab edge I want as much tray "medium" in there as possible. I also want to "weight" that corner down firmly.

 

I'm really not confident doing it screeded tbh. Just feel with guide rails to tamp to I can control things as well as being accurate.

[Nickfromwales]

You create those final crisp straight lines with the tiles, not the screed .

Tile the 'runway' strip first and leave to dry, and then do the wings. Your only working between two fixed points at any one time then. 

I assume you've worked out that you need the main, flat floor all down first yea?  

 

[bassanclan]

Or temporarily fit the angle iron guide rails the "other way up" and then use them as a rough guide, remove them and then trowel/ float it up

[Onoff]

59 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

You create those final crisp straight lines with the tiles, not the screed .

Tile the 'runway' strip first and leave to dry, and then do the wings. Your only working between two fixed points at any one time then. 

I assume you've worked out that you need the main, flat floor all down first yea?  

 

 

I was planning on tiling the wet room corner first and working outward? That corner is the "focus".

[Nickfromwales]

39 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I was planning on tiling the wet room corner first and working outward? That corner is the "focus".

You should define the area and tile up to it, flat square and level. That way you have a perimeter as a target and something to rest a batten on to get your 'target'. 

Youll regret doing it ( trying to do it ) the other way around imo. That way you can possibly work to factory edges of the floor tiles which is what I always try to aim for. 

[Russell griffiths]

If you are a bit concerned in doing the hand screed thing do as @bassanclan said and mount your angle temporarily, fill area and rough out your shape then pull out the angle iron and fill the thin strip and finish trowelling. 

Having just read the last couple of pages and looking at pics, that is a 3 hour job including all the mixing and carrying in doors. 

 

No problem son for a man of your caliber 

can I ask what is the outside ring off angle for are you not using the other previously laid area as your level area, surely this sloping slab has to blend in join up with that one doesn't it ? If this is the case you already have a datum point all around to work off. 

JFDI

[Onoff]

19 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

can I ask what is the outside ring off angle for are you not using the other previously laid area as your level area, surely this sloping slab has to blend in join up with that one doesn't it ? If this is the case you already have a datum point all around to work off. 

JFDI

 

The outside ring of angle is where I have to bring the level area in a bit on both sides - I left the area slightly oversize. Once those strips of slab are added it'll be those new edges that I slope off of.

[Construction Channel]

8 hours ago, Onoff said:

I'm really not confident doing it screeded tbh. Just feel with guide rails to tamp to I can control things as well as being accurate.

 

im trying to stay out of this (other than the odd wind up) as others are clearly more qualified on the subject than myself. 

but if you do it with "wet" concrete there will be a slump and mess issue. nothing major but they will be there.

FWIW im planning to do a similar thing with my wet room excluding the red plastic bit and i am fully intending to use dry screed, 

on such a small area screeding will be a lot easier than you think 

[Russell griffiths]

So again fwiw if you tile your main flat area first , last flat tile will overhang your flat area and extend into your fall area (is this correct) 

if so with a 2% fall let's say you have made your flat area 100 mm larger than it needs to be your flat tile will project onto your slope area by 100mm the bed under this tile for arguments sake is 5mm when sat down firm so you will have a strip of tile 100mm wide with a bed joint 5mm thick + 2%. 

This is ABSOLUTELY negligible just screed up to the flat area you have laid now. 

 

[Construction Channel]

I suppose we should mention a dry screed will take longer to cure......

[Nickfromwales]

19 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

I suppose we should mention a dry screed will take longer to cure......

Oh I think it'll get enough time to cure 

[Onoff]

There was me thinking I'd picked up the pace of late.....

 

[Nickfromwales]

You need a hug ? 

?

[Onoff]

Somebody needs to get their ar$e in gear... 

 

[ProDave]

12 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Somebody needs to get their ar$e in gear... 

 

That looks like the typical "help me out, it has to be finished by Christmas" jobs that pour in at this time of year.