Onoff Posted April 26, 2018 Author Share Posted April 26, 2018 Ive got 25mm of eps (offcuts) behind the pipes. It's got to be better than nothing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 26, 2018 Share Posted April 26, 2018 Can you insulate between the cold in and the feed out? You could separate them a bit more and put more insulation between them - takes time though...... The feed out is only going to be in use during shower time, I wouldnt bother to put more insulation behind it, just turn the temp up a bit more! Coming on.... tiles chosen yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 26, 2018 Author Share Posted April 26, 2018 8 minutes ago, CC45 said: Can you insulate between the cold in and the feed out? You could separate them a bit more and put more insulation between them - takes time though...... The feed out is only going to be in use during shower time, I wouldnt bother to put more insulation behind it, just turn the temp up a bit more! Coming on.... tiles chosen yet? Tiles BOUGHT! Sitting in their boxes gathering dust... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 Packing this corner out with EPS /PIR is driving me nuts! By the time I put the bare minimum of 25mm insulation behind the pockets there'll just be a load of awkward rectangular holes to fill up. They're also different depths. So...I've already thought Sod it and gone mad with the foam gun in the corner. I was thinking then just by a box of 12 gun foam from Toolstation for £50. Poor man's Icynene? A sheet of 25mm pir from Wickes is £33. I could stick some tin foil to the wall with spray adhesive before the foam. Thoughts? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Thoughts? Its a bit late for "thoughts?" ?? you have to share a picture before you cut it back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 5 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: Its a bit late for "thoughts?" ?? you have to share a picture before you cut it back! It's not too late to stop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 Just now, Onoff said: It's not too late to stop! in for a penny I say, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 (edited) Thick wall pipe insulation on the 15mm pipes will fill up a bit more of the void... Still not sure whether it's worth spraying the rest of that uneven wall with contact adhesive and applying foil before the gun foam? Edited April 27, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 In the unlikely event of a leak on the bent copper, the shower valve or even the straight copper I'm thinking maybe I should pressure test this pipework before encasing it all in insulation/spray foam? Bloody nightmare as to get the "quad cranked" pipe in after insulating the wall is impossible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 Pressure testing is a no brainier. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 On 23/04/2018 at 09:47, Onoff said: Sketched out a bit of a plan of what I've got / propose: The upstairs ensuite grey soil runs diagonally across the eaves. A pita for access, storage etc. All push fit so I thought redo with a 90deg bend. Keeps everything parallel / square. Was even thinking to make it a branch, capped for now so I can add into it if I ever put wcs off the kid's rooms (though that would ideally mean converting the roof eaves to gable ends). I know I could put the basin & shower wastes into the soil there but I'd rather avoid that as it all runs into a cess pit prone to backing up. Planning to take the ensuite basin & shower waste vertically up the page then horizontally left and down the wall to tie up with the 2" bath waste from the new bathroom. Getting hot and cold feed to the new shower valve might be fun. Hoping to pass those pipes under the squared off soil run and tap off where the upstairs ensuite shower is fed from. You need a bend and then the branch, or the branch then the bend. Don't use the branch to make a 90o turn in the run as it's a stalling point and a big no-no. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: You need a bend and then the branch, or the branch then the bend. Don't use the branch to make a 90o turn in the run as it's a stalling point and a big no-no. Cheers. So I could ditch the branch for a 90deg bend laid on it's side and that would be OK? Why is a branch such a stalling point, does "stuff" get thrown into the unused branch and compacted? Or is it not enough of a sweep? If that's the case a normal 90 is no good either! So for clarification the 112.5 branch in it's side could cause a "log jam"? It's approx 1.5m from the aav stack. Edited April 28, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) On 14/04/2018 at 14:39, PeterW said: Cheap handsaw does it for me. Or a gumtree circ saw that is bought for the job and binned as the bearings will be munched by the end of it ..!! The Makro circular saw bought years ago and used once then abandoned seems to cut nice. Must remember to turn the board over though as it's lifting the fibres from the good face this way! For trimming the strips to length I'm going to fit this diamond blade to the Evolution chop saw: Kicking myself actually as Screwfix had a Rage 3 without blade for £56 +VAT the other day on the trade counter! I could have one for wood and one for tiles going! Edited April 29, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Is that the word 'faster' you've chopped off? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 15 minutes ago, newhome said: Is that the word 'faster' you've chopped off? Fastidious... 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) Well this cut Aqua Panel is hairier than a plumber's bum... Nothing a quick haircut won't sort though. Thought I'd do the easy one first. Have tried to ensure edges overlap the best way possible in case water does get through: The bottom "shelf" bit will overhang the panel underneath: The soffit section with have the wall piece come down over it: The sides: The back panel will get secured to the sides with a continuous batten: All loose at the mo. Not sure whether to Sikaflex all the panel to panel joints when I screw it in place? Edited April 29, 2018 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 6 hours ago, Onoff said: Well this cut Aqua Panel is hairier than a plumber's bum... I demand to know who you've been talking to ! The panel looks good, but be honest, how long did you waste thinking about getting the word AQUAPANEL to go around that corner intact? Be honest..... Bond the life out of everything and then tank it. It'll be bombproof then. Get the goop of choice into the joints / corners etc prior to the next panel going in so you've got goop IN the joint as well as over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: The panel looks good, but be honest, how long did you waste thinking about getting the word AQUAPANEL to go around that corner intact? Be honest..... Bond the life out of everything and then tank it. It'll be bombproof then. Get the goop of choice into the joints / corners etc prior to the next panel going in so you've got goop IN the joint as well as over it. Seems a pity to cover the lettering up really! Goop of choice would be Sika EBT but it's bloody expensive even on the Bay. Was looking at the £1 a tube stuff in T'station the other day. https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p51064 Reading the small print though and you need to prime with PVA etc. How out of date can Sikaflex be? https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sika-Sikaflex-EBT-WHITE-Box-of-12-x-300ml-Tubes-Complete-Box/162941783342? Edited April 29, 2018 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Just use the TS £1 stuff. It’s to hold it in place while you screw it on, the tanking and the tiles do the rest. TBH if you’ve got water back to the joint it’s fecked anyway so you could use Marmite and it would be as much use .... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Its dry as chalk so yes to priming. Mix up some flexible primer or PVA watered down to size it and then allow to dry before assembling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 17 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Its dry as chalk so yes to priming. Mix up some flexible primer or PVA watered down to size it and then allow to dry before assembling. This is the data sheet for the £1 one: Instant Nails rev 2.pdf I can prime the edges easy enough for assembling the pockets. Will I need to prime all the Aqua Panel before tiling or will the tanking to that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Ive never used it tbh, just PB and tanking for me. Try the tanking to see how it adheres and go from there. Id not use PVA if you can help it, thinking about it, and would recommend flexible tile primer like Ultra Edit, mix that 4 parts water and lamp it on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 8 hours ago, PeterW said: Just use the TS £1 stuff. It’s to hold it in place while you screw it on, the tanking and the tiles do the rest. TBH if you’ve got water back to the joint it’s fecked anyway so you could use Marmite and it would be as much use .... Tbh on the basis the Aqua Panel is waterproof then sealing the joints is an attempt to "tank" the pocket, pre tanking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 2 hours ago, Onoff said: Tbh on the basis the Aqua Panel is waterproof then sealing the joints is an attempt to "tank" the pocket, pre tanking. Just size it so the tanking doesn't peel off like a latex glove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 NOTE : "Size" as in prime and seal a surface to mitigate against a dry / powdery or friable surface, eg to ensure adhesion of the following product/s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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